Hey guys new to the BB

5 years ago I bought an old 68 W300 4x4 It was a PG&E that was modified with a International Dt366. The turbo charged 99 HP ran good until 47 mph, maybe 48 LoL. Didn't take long to realize something needed to change.

Out with the Dt 366 and 5 speed. In with a 93 Cummins coupled to a Road Ranger 10 speed. Wanting to make sure I had enough gear...next I installed a low, direct, high, Brownie Box. There's a lot more story and pics if you guys are interested?

This is my problem and why I've came to the BB for answers;
Last pic the 5.9 has a A B C D E. I'm trying to find out what these wires are for and are they needed?
On the other side of the pic is 3 black wires molded together with a gnarled finger nut that come out below the exhoust manifold?

Thanks Mike

 

No idea on the wiring - but keep the pics coming and I love the truck! Looking good!

 

E i know for sure is coolant temp sensor. not sure about the others but i would make a guess on A and B and say that one could be manifold pressure and ambient temperature. these gurus will chime in shortly and give you the right answers. and the 3 black wires with the gnarled nut could be the block heater that had the male plug ripped off of it

 

Nice truck



Looks to be a w500 tho

 

no doubt. especially from the looks of the tow truck lol

 

A: Air temp sensor for the PCM to control the intake heaters
B: Air temp switch for the KSB solenoid (on the side of the injection pump). Send 12 volts from ignition to it, other wire goes to KSB solenoid. The terminal can just barely be seen above the power steering reservoir cap in the pic.
C: Fuel Heater. Supply with 12 volts ignition switched via the blue wire, ground the black wire. Has an internal thermostat.
D: Coolant temp sensor for the PCM. Keeps trans out of OD until the engine warms up a little.
E: Coolant temp sender for the dash gauge.

All are optional. I would connect B (and possibly C if the truck will see cold temps).

The nice thing about DT360's is that they don't make enough power to tear up the driveline. I had the misfortune to drive an S1900 series International with a DT360/5 speed/split rear combo for several years. At least with the split rear I could always find a gear low enough for the engine to pull...

 

Nice WD./.

Would love to see your brownie setup, I have one in my 1972 W200 right now...

 

I'd like to hear more about the truck, how the drive train was installed?

 

wanna, thanks for the good instructions. I had to take the air heater off to clear the 01 F-350 hydro booster. I live in Bakersfield, CA.... will the truck fire in the 30's without the heater grid?

This is a video of the Dt366
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVGmraQ3lEE&NR=1

This is why I took out the 366. No matter how hard I drove it it wouldn't clean up.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzXZqi26gTA

What the chain for?

 

My 91 fired at +20-25 without waiting for the grids. BTW, howdy neighbor!

Chain looks like an old wench....uh....winch drive

 

It'll be just fine. You can even leave the KSB unhooked, you will just get a little white smoke until the engine gets a little heat in it on a cold morning.

The chain is for whatever the PTO drives. A winch is a plausible explanation, I think I see one edge of the sheave just above and to the right of it in the pic.

 

I looked at that third picture, top row, three or four different times before I figured out that that gas-pump roof wasn't part of the truck.


You talk about an optical illusion.

Load this place with pictures and details; I like it.

 

The wiring loom in mine had a short in the wires going to the KSB. So I unhooked 'em and ran new wires to a switch I installed on the dash. One wire from the KSB to the switch, other wire from the switch to the fuel shut off solenoid for power. I can flip the switch when it's cold out for the first couple minutes the engine is on...better than the factory setup IMO.

 

Crazy Matt, no it's a 300 but I have some 500 emblems for it

Since you all are interested let me start from the beginning.
I bought the truck for a $1,000. All the pics below are just the way I bought it.

 

The W had Micky Mouse GM steering and Hydro Booster that needed to go.

So I robed a steering box along with a section off frame off a wrecked 01 F-350. So now the box would mount correctly and not pull out of the frame. I also got the matching Hydro Booster.

Since the front brakes sucked and I couldn't get the steering right I bought a GM 1-ton Dana 60. While searching the www I found a off road cross over steering kit that raised the steering arm like I needed.

This was a big steep getting this heavy truck to steer correctly. Know i have little bump steer.