Truck was dead, tried to boost now says check gauges
Truck was dead, tried to boost now says check gauges
Well I hit my remote start button this morning, went upstairs and it wasn't running, went out side tried it and it was dead. Buddy came over and we put the booster cables on it and it was charging up ran the grids twice and then hit the starter. turned over slowly so i let off and waited for a bit to try it again. Hit the starter and it barely turned over, so I wiggled the clamp on his truck and it sparked a little bit then started charging again. Got in my truck tried it again and then when I let off the key (didn't start) the volt meter dropped to 8 and the airbag light came on then the check gauges light came on. turned the key off then back on and it went to the lower line on the voltmeter and all was normal till the grid heater turned off, then the volt meter dropped again, airbag light, check gauges and its not taking a charge at all now.
Any Ideas?? I'm unfortunately thinking when it sparked it might have fried my PCM...
P.S. its around -20c here right now.
Thanks in advance, Fred.
Any Ideas?? I'm unfortunately thinking when it sparked it might have fried my PCM...
P.S. its around -20c here right now.
Thanks in advance, Fred.
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
If your battery's are over 5 years old it's time to replace them. If not pull the battery's charge them and have tested. If you try starting with dead battery's and jump starting could run risk of frying PCM which is about $1000 to replace. Put a battery charger on, plug in your engine heater and try again tomorrow. Good Luck
Be very careful the batteries could be frozen. If you try to boost them they will explode. I would take them out and let them come to room temp then try to charge them with a battery charger.
The battery's are 8 months old, 2 Optima Red tops. I wasnt planing on going anywhere today but my buddy called and needed a ride back to the bar to get his truck.
The PCM is only about 150 for a used one, had to put a new one in last year.
And unless you live in Calgary and understand how weather works here you cant really understand why I didn't plug my truck in. it goes from +5 to -20 in a matter of hours, then back up to +10 the next day and maybe -15 that after noon.
The PCM is only about 150 for a used one, had to put a new one in last year.
And unless you live in Calgary and understand how weather works here you cant really understand why I didn't plug my truck in. it goes from +5 to -20 in a matter of hours, then back up to +10 the next day and maybe -15 that after noon.
-20 is not that cold especially if you are running synthetic oils. If the batteries went flat from a light being left on or something else then they will freeze in -20 weather. I know what you mean about the WX. A few weeks ago it was -46c with -59c wind chill at the airport. Two or three days later -4c
With relatively new batteries I would check the ground side first...driver's side negative cable to engine and to frame.
Last edited by Utundra; Dec 31, 2009 at 06:40 PM. Reason: Spelling error...thanks to my long since deceased mother
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You have a couple of things going against you,
1) your standard jumper cables won't start a CTD if the batteries are very dead.
It takes the pricey ones to carry enough juice. Use two sets if you only have the cheap ones available.
2) redtops don't like a fast charge and won't take it. You need to pull them out a trickle charge, 5 amps or less.
1) your standard jumper cables won't start a CTD if the batteries are very dead.
It takes the pricey ones to carry enough juice. Use two sets if you only have the cheap ones available.
2) redtops don't like a fast charge and won't take it. You need to pull them out a trickle charge, 5 amps or less.
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