I've had occassional dead pedal issues for about a year. The condition changed to the dreaded "idle okay touch the accelerator and WOT". I swapped out the APPS and have the same condition. Any ideas?

 

Try resetting apps again, if you haven't already. I had to do mine 2 or 3 times before it worked.

Dave

 

check codes for ideas, sounds like bad VP

 

care to elaborate?

 

I just returned from idling into Advance to hook up a scanner...no codes. I cannot believe this! I have a binary accelerator (idle and WOT) and I get no codes?!

In addition I noticed that the air intake heater relay had a melted terminal so I replaced that. I don't think this is playing a part as it hit 90 today in NE PA.

I have reset the APPS numerous times. Interestingly on one occassion I could not start the truck until maybe the 5th try. I keyed off each time and left it set for a few minutes between tries 3 and 4 so I wouldn't cook the starter.

HELP!

 

I would try the apps recalibration method because resetting obviously didn't work.

 

So do you think he should "recalibrate" the original APPS?....or the other one he installed?

 

Was there a variance in voltage ratings on the new apps vs. the old one? There should be a sticker on the back of the sensor showing .xxx vdc.

 

Both the old APPS and the newly installed APPS voltage on pin 23 of the ECM checked out to the proper voltage as listed on the module.

Just because the voltage is correct doesn't mean that the module works appropriately. This would only validate the potentiometer is calibrated properly. There could still be a problem with the idle validation switch. From what I've read this seems to be the weak part of the design (first to fail). That is why I ponied up the money for a new APPS even though I had the proper volts.

 

So can the apps be ruled out since a new one produced same problem? If so, where to look? What about removing the edge?

Just thinking out loud!

 

Yes, it feels like the APPS is not the problem. It's time to get out the fine-toothed comb. I will unhook the Edge and see what happens.

Anybody know a way to test the idle validation switch? Is there a remote possibility that the new APPS is faulty? I once purchased an alternator that was bad out of the box. I didn't notice it until I toasted a new battery. It was a vehicle without a gauge and the idiot light didn't work if it had one.n

 

I removed the Edge and no change.

 

no surprise there...