The reason I'm posting this here is because I'll be going past Summit Racing tomorrow and want to stop there. So I need a reply fast. So if you could leave it for one day,,,I would appreciate it kind sir's.

To make a long story short, I've alway's had gauge problem's. So I put one just before the isolator under the hood. But for some reason they crap out real quick. I've been through 3 $15 gauge's, and 1 $35 gauge. I don't know if it's the diesel, or maybe vibration killing them.

Can anyone recomend something. I asked them at Summit before, and they said any of them would work. Well,,, they work,,,but they don't last.

 

You need a needle valve to help with the pulse's from the IP. That could be what's killing them. I got a boost gauge kit with the nylon line. Picked up a Issopro fuel pressure gauge and inline needle valve from the hardware store. I also put some black RTV on the threads to seal everything up tight.

I haven't had a problem one. I would put the gauge in the cab so you can monitor is closer than under the hood.

 

I do have a gauge in the cab. But it's alway's acting up because of the isolator. I have a gauge under the hood for back up/reliability.

 

The needle valve or a snubber reduces the pressure on the gauge. I've got both on my gauge! The gauges will last longer if you can get them farther away from vibration. You're probably attaching the gauge directly to the filter housing or right at the IP? Try a three foot loop of Summit's braided line and relocate the guage. The loop, needle valve/snubber will make a BIG difference.

 

I have the ISSPRO gauge package. I have the 36" or 24" (what ever it came with) stainless line going from the injection pump to the isolator, that is mounted on the firewall in the recomended location. The gauge it tee'd into the isolator, and the line connect's there.

So it must be the pulse's, or vibration. I'll try the needle valve. What's a snubber. Thank's.

 

A snubber is a metal fitting, usually SS or brass. You can get them with NPT male x NPT female connections so they will just fit inline. They look similar to a short piece of pipe/ tubing with the threaded connections. 1/8" NPT snubber will only be an inch or so long. "...us them as flow restrictors or bleed controls."

 

dont know if this is even relavent or a good idea but my former boss on his truck took the isolator completely out of the equation and just ran diesel to the gauge, his words exactly "whats the worst that could happen a fuel leak in cab?" does this sound like a good idea, i kinda frowned at it.

 

Not a big deal at all. If you install a needle valve at the head of the line and run the valve almost closed any leak will be nothing more than a slow drip that you can turn off with the valve.
100% of the isolators I've dealt with have failed anyway without the owner's knowledge. Pump pulsations rupture the isolator's diaphragm, they don't leak just quit isolating.
Personally I'd rather have a gauge that reads correctly even if it might have a slight chance of leaking some day.

 

You just might be onto something there. I'm sick and tired of dealing with this gauge. It's so unrealiable,,I can't beleive what it tell's me anyway.

So do you guy's think I could just connect the needle valve the the 1/4" semi truck air brake line I have runing to the cab gauge from the isolator. Could the plastic handle the diesel fuel with out being damaged. It would save alot of time and money that way.

 

My gauge is mounted underneath the ash tray on a pivoting mount. I used two ea. 3 foot pieces of the stainless wrapped line with a snubber and a needle valve mounted nearest the "T" going into the IP. If I ever have a leak it's just a matter of closing off the needle valve.

 

Not sure if you mean a plastic valve or plastic line being damaged.
Never seen a plastic needle valve although I'm sure they are available.
Air brake line is my top choice for fuel, good stuff. The air brake hose for the FP gauge in both my trucks has been in service for at least ten years with no problem.

One thing I found interesting a couple of years ago when I decided to change the FP gauge in my 2500 for one that had lighting. Got all prepared for fuel drips in the cab during the swap, not a drip came out of the line or gauge. In fact it appeared the line was still full of air even after eight years.