dss667

ran out of fuel today, and after adding fuel could not get truck to start. tried to prime the fuel system by bumping thr starter no joy. tried to blled the fuel system by letting go thr fuel lines where they enter the engine. tried by letting go the 1st, 3rd and 5th fuel line where they enter the engine but did not see any fuel come out but i did notice a bit of air and a bit of bubbling when i let go the lines. i did not realize you had to engage the starter for a brief moment to prime the system so i only tuned the key to the on position a couple of times with the fuel lines disconnected. did not see any fuel come out.
question 1- am i letting go the fuel lines in the right position.
if so do i just do 1 3 and 5 or all.
question 2- do i bump the starter until fuel comes out.
is there any where i can go to get an exact procedure for priming the system after running out of fuel.
thanks in advance

phox_mulder

I don't think it matters which ones you crack, just that you crack at least half of them.

You have to crank the engine till fuel comes squirting out of the line you have cracked open.


First thing you want to do is make sure your lift pump is working.
Remove the top of the fuel filter bowl and confirm that there is fuel in it.
Loosely reattach the cap, then bump the starter, when fuel is pouring out from under the lid, tighten it down,
then proceed to the injector line cracking and priming.

I'm no expert, this is just what I've learned from reading on here,
hope it helps.


phox

handymantim

I don't know if this 2004 shop manual info will help with your 2001. Good luck.....

STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM
PRIMING
A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the
fuel system when fuel system components on the
supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or
replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using
the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump.
Servicing or replacing fuel system components will
not require fuel system priming.
The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When
the key is first turned on (without cranking engine),
the pump operates for approximately 1 to 2 second
and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up
to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged,
and then disengaged without allowing the engine to
start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is
on and the engine stops running.
(1) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly
release key to ON position before engine starts. This
will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25
seconds.
(2) Crank engine. If the engine does not start after
25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until
engine starts.
(3) Fuel system priming is now completed.
(4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not
start, proceed to following steps. When engine does
start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a
few minutes. This is a normal condition.
CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more
than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes
between cranking intervals.
(5) Perform previous fuel priming procedure steps
using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at
fuel tank.
(6) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to
allow fuel system to prime.
WARNING: THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES
EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL
INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE
LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF
PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND
CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES
AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING.
DO NOT LOOSEN FUEL FITTINGS WHILE ENGINE
IS RUNNING.
WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING
STARTER MOTOR.

RATTLINRAM

It sounds like the manual for the 2004 dosen't want you to crack the injectors on the common-rail system.

I ran mine out when the fuel sending unit went bad. My 99 has a test port on the Wildcat SS fuel linecoming out of the filter housing which I checked by just turning the key to run the lift pump. It was fine so all I did was loosen the number one injector,,,,,,, crank the engine over until she fires or fuel starts coming out (not just bubbles). When it didn't start,,, I repeated the same thing on the number 3,,,,, she tried to start but stumbled. I then repeated on number five and after a few bubbles,,,,,, she lit off and ran rough, but smoothed out in a few seconds. This was beside the road with only a cresent wrench. Good batteries help and I didn't crank on the starter motor for more than about 5 seconds at a time.
Hope this helps.



Dennis

bdramsey

Did the fuel gauge quit be accurate? I've seen posts that say the fuel gauge will be inaccurate occasionally.

firestorm

Simplified instructions.

Make sure you have fuel in the tank, and the filter, use the shrader valve post-filter and starter bump to do this, then follow the steps below. PLEASE be careful.
1: Crack all the lines loose at the injecters, don't remove themjust loosen slightly.
2: Have someone turn the key to 'start' for no more than 30 seconds at a time, with a 2 minute break in between tries. This will keep from burning up the starter.
3: Watch the lines for fuel. As each line is bled, ( no air bubbles, straight fuel ) tighten that line. The engine may start after the 3rd or 4th line If it does, tighten the rest of the lines.
4: Once the engine starts, wether after a complete bleed or partial bleed, it may run rough. Just bring your RPM's up a little, around 1250 or so, untill it smooths out.
5: FILL the fuel tank with fuel.
6: Keep fuel tank full of fuel.

farmer dave

I just ran my truck out of fuel yesterday. Fuel gauge said that I had 1/8 tank and light had not come on yet. I had to bleed all of the lines before it would start. Have you made sure that you are getting fuel, check at the fuel filter.