ran out of fuel
ran out of fuel today, and after adding fuel could not get truck to start. tried to prime the fuel system by bumping thr starter no joy. tried to blled the fuel system by letting go thr fuel lines where they enter the engine. tried by letting go the 1st, 3rd and 5th fuel line where they enter the engine but did not see any fuel come out but i did notice a bit of air and a bit of bubbling when i let go the lines. i did not realize you had to engage the starter for a brief moment to prime the system so i only tuned the key to the on position a couple of times with the fuel lines disconnected. did not see any fuel come out.
question 1- am i letting go the fuel lines in the right position. if so do i just do 1 3 and 5 or all. question 2- do i bump the starter until fuel comes out. is there any where i can go to get an exact procedure for priming the system after running out of fuel. thanks in advance |
Re: ran out of fuel
Originally posted by dss667 question 1- am i letting go the fuel lines in the right position. if so do i just do 1 3 and 5 or all. question 2- do i bump the starter until fuel comes out. First thing you want to do is make sure your lift pump is working. Remove the top of the fuel filter bowl and confirm that there is fuel in it. Loosely reattach the cap, then bump the starter, when fuel is pouring out from under the lid, tighten it down, then proceed to the injector line cracking and priming. I'm no expert, this is just what I've learned from reading on here, hope it helps. phox |
I don't know if this 2004 shop manual info will help with your 2001. Good luck.....
STANDARD PROCEDURE - FUEL SYSTEM PRIMING A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Fuel system priming is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. Servicing or replacing fuel system components will not require fuel system priming. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 1 to 2 second and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running. (1) Turn key to CRANK position and quickly release key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds. (2) Crank engine. If the engine does not start after 25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until engine starts. (3) Fuel system priming is now completed. (4) Attempt to start engine. If engine will not start, proceed to following steps. When engine does start, it may run erratically and be noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition. CAUTION: Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals. (5) Perform previous fuel priming procedure steps using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at fuel tank. (6) Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to allow fuel system to prime. WARNING: THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. DO NOT LOOSEN FUEL FITTINGS WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR. |
For the Pre-Common-Rail system,,,
It sounds like the manual for the 2004 dosen't want you to crack the injectors on the common-rail system.
I ran mine out when the fuel sending unit went bad. My 99 has a test port on the Wildcat SS fuel linecoming out of the filter housing which I checked by just turning the key to run the lift pump. It was fine so all I did was loosen the number one injector,,,,,,, crank the engine over until she fires or fuel starts coming out (not just bubbles). When it didn't start,,, I repeated the same thing on the number 3,,,,, she tried to start but stumbled. I then repeated on number five and after a few bubbles,,,,,, she lit off and ran rough, but smoothed out in a few seconds. This was beside the road with only a cresent wrench. ;) Good batteries help and I didn't crank on the starter motor for more than about 5 seconds at a time. Hope this helps. Dennis |
Did the fuel gauge quit be accurate? I've seen posts that say the fuel gauge will be inaccurate occasionally.
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Simplified instructions.
Make sure you have fuel in the tank, and the filter, use the shrader valve post-filter and starter bump to do this, then follow the steps below. PLEASE be careful. 1: Crack all the lines loose at the injecters, don't remove themjust loosen slightly. 2: Have someone turn the key to 'start' for no more than 30 seconds at a time, with a 2 minute break in between tries. This will keep from burning up the starter. 3: Watch the lines for fuel. As each line is bled, ( no air bubbles, straight fuel ) tighten that line. The engine may start after the 3rd or 4th line If it does, tighten the rest of the lines. 4: Once the engine starts, wether after a complete bleed or partial bleed, it may run rough. Just bring your RPM's up a little, around 1250 or so, untill it smooths out. 5: FILL the fuel tank with fuel. ;) 6: Keep fuel tank full of fuel. ;) |
I just ran my truck out of fuel yesterday. Fuel gauge said that I had 1/8 tank and light had not come on yet. I had to bleed all of the lines before it would start. Have you made sure that you are getting fuel, check at the fuel filter.
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