help I just finished my KDP tabbed I pulled and tightened all interior and 20 exterior bolts cleaned loc-tite the crank seal previously leaked and looks bone dry now. I still have a pretty good leak and i washed it again and no oil from the crank or timing cover I also replaced that gasket as well. I look at the drivers front side of motor and I can watch oil drip at the gasket where the timing case and block meet, it drips down to top edge at corner of pan and on oil lines and down.
Does anybody have ANY ideas I do not cannot and will not pull the cover and all that again anything maybe clean and liquid weld or ?? im desperate I dont have the money or resources to do a major project right now please give me advice

thanks

 

you can try to degrease it very well and then run a bead of gasketmaker around the area but that is only a temp fix.

 

there is a liquid gasket maker that you can get at NAPA its in a spray can and it seeps in to cracks and holes then swells and hardens . you could use that and clean it real good with brake cleaner might work but its got to be clean and dry!I have used it before on intake manifolds .

 

Won't your case fill up with oil eventually, or will it drain back?

 

1-2-3 i dont understand what you mean? the timing case doesnt fill up with oil that I know of, but I could be wrong. It just sucks i leave a puddle of oil, granted its smaller puddles and appears to be less since kdp, everywhere I go and frustrated cuz i dont have time now cuz work projects are in full swing now.

 

after you park the truck overnight, and the oil has quit dripping, clean the area REALLLLY clean with spray parts cleaner and acetone. use some scotch bright pad with the acetone. after it drys, force a small bead of "the right stuff" into the crack, use your finger. let it cure for a few hours or over night, and the leak will be permanently fixed. the right stuff is made by permatex, #25224. try it , it`s the best thing since free sex and cold beer !!!LOL !

 

^^
What he said. When we put on timing cases they get a nice big bead of the RTV at the pan to case joint.

 

that can get you something you didnt want!

 

yup not so free kids and DUIs LOL
thanks for the info Im going to try this let you all know how it goes

 

I had that problem and went the expensive route to fix it. The whole front of the engine needs to be removed, as does the cam (or cam gear if you swing that way). While removing the injector pump we discovered that the bottom support bolt was missing. My theory is the weight of the IP hanging from the rear of the case distorted it enough to cause the leak.

Since you don't want to replace the gasket, which is a PITA, I offer these suggestions. Remove the vacuum pump/power steering pump assy. That will give you easy access to the mating surfaces of the gear case and engine. The is a 90 degree bracket that supports the vac/ps pumps that is bolted to a flat bar that is attached to the engine. After removing the pumps look at the top of that flat bar. There should be a bolt that supports the rear of the IP. After a complete cleaning using brake cleaner last, apply the sealer of your choice and reassemble. Make sure you give the sealer time to cure before starting the engine.