shortfieldbreak

Hey all! I'm installing the thermocouple for my pyro gauge pre-turbo. I started drilling into the middle of the exhaust manifold this afternoon, and just kept drilling. I'm about half an inch deep and haven't broken through anywhere yet. It looks as if the manifold comes together to two "pipes" going into the turbo. I'm thinking I should plug up the first hole and drill into one side or the other. Will the exhaust temps come out the same? higher? lower? I've included a picture of the work so far. Please help. I'm moving 3000 miles on Thursday!

-SFB

phox_mulder

The temps should be a little higher rearward of that divider.<br><br>I think I've heard that #6 is the hottest cylinder, and it dumps rearward.<br><br>Most of the pyro instructions I've seen say to drill dead center of the rearward hump.<br><br><br>phox

shortfieldbreak

Thanks Phox. Any suggestions on filling the current hole? or should I even worry about it?<br><br>-SFB

joe b.

I installed an EGT a couple of weeks back and put some pictures on my web site. www.jbpacooper.com then click on storytime and then number 11 Installing gauges.<br>Should be a close up showing where I drilled the hole on mine, per the instructions that came from Geno's.

BPD239

I've always had good luck with motorcycle exhaust repairs with JB Liquid Weld.....I think it would work good to fill the hole in the exhaust manual. I told my father about it, he had an old motorcycle that he had holes in the pipe braised to pass an inspection. Just before he went to the DMV he found another small hole. He filled the hole with the JB Liquid Weld, years later the pipes are corroding around the braised repairs, but the JB Liquid Weld is solid. I don't know if I'd try to repair a cracked engine block (like it says on the package!!!) but it works great on these types of repairs.

tmiller24

Isn't it better to remove the turbo,before drilling? Didn't like the idea of the turbo bearings or seals having to deal with pesky little cast iron chips. Doesn't take long or require anything special to remove. Just a thought! Tony

shortfieldbreak

I used a trick I heard about here, along with one of my own. While drilling, I used a little glob of grease, and as I drilled, the grease picked up all the chips. I changed out the grease often to keep it picking up the chips. I also placed some strong magnets around the hole I was drilling to pick up any strays. Once the hole was drilled, and tapped I used one of those little telescoping magnets and fished around inside the hole, down toward the exhaust valves, and down toward the turbo. I picked up a little more stuff doing that, and fished until I got no more. Everything cranked right up, and ran great over the next hard charging 3000+ miles.<br><br>-SFB

redramnc

You can also run the truck at idle while drilling to blow the chips back out at you - be careful because the drill will get real hot due to the manifold temp and the chips do not need to find your eyes (although they will try).<br><br>I used a little Tap Magic cutting fluid on the bits and step drilled the hole. Tapped the same way after letting the manifold cool back down to ambient.<br><br>If you pull the turbo you really need to replace the gasket, although some people apparently have better luck with gaskets resealing than I seem to.