Trace

Problem:
The engine cuts out (especiall under a load or climbing hills), poor fuel mileage and loss of power.
Back in 2001 I purchased a new Dodge 2500 Quad Cab. Shortley after that the injection pump and lift pump went out. Since then, 3 times on my own I have had to replace them both again.
The truck has just over 200,000 miles on it to date and I pull a 16' enclosed cargo trailer full time behind it everyday of this trucks life. I drive back and forth to all the connecting states of Colorado and right now Im currently in Nevada.
I have nothing but stock parts on this truck, and would like some help with the following questions.
1) Is there a way to tell or test on my own if the lift or injection pump needs replaced again. I just spent $450 on a new throddel sensor that that didnt fix the problem.
2) How hard is it on a scale of 1-10 to replace them on my own. (I have common sense and lots of sockets,but no specialty tools)
3) Good place to purchase (rebuilt) lift and injection pump.

I was aslo doing some research again since this problem just started last week and I hearing things like (pressure guages, F.A.S.S Series Products).
All I know is Im getting really tired of literally spending thousands on this same issue time and time again.

I would appreaciate any advice on what I can do to keep this from happening again, and again and again. I almost feel like Dodge designed a good truck, but forgot to design a truck that was pulling over 10K on a daily basis.

Thanks to all that can help.

-Trace

Trace

I also wanted to mention that I also have 2 codes showing
P 1693 (may be from a defective Edge box product that went bad on me)
P 0237 This one Im lost on..
I just replaced my throddle sensor 2 days back and I was reading that there is a procedure to follow after replacement. I just replaced mine, and started the engine. Didnt turn the switch to on, press the petal from 0-full throddel under 60 seconds and then shut the switch off. Does this matter now that the new part has been replaced?
I also noticed my battery cables as being very coroded. Im getting ready to break out the power washer here in just a few minutes to clean them up.

Thanks

scottsjeeprolet

Welcome to the DTR!!
now the 0237 code is P0237 Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor Low
the codes can be found in the Tech section
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
that code is probably left over from the Edge box. Check out the map sensor connection or even pull it and clean it. Go to Autozone and get the codes read and cleared.
Just use some Coke and a wire brush to clean your battery connections and please wear some safety glasses. I wouldn't use a pressure washer under the hood might mess something up.
Get guages and upgrade your fuel system, Vulcan big line kit and a Walbro pump work very well. A lot of people will recomend the FASS which is very good but kinda pricy.
Do a search on here and you can find all the reading you ever wanted. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_2_fe...components.jpg
That's a pic of all of your fuel system components, though you probably already know where everything is.
good luck.
scotte

emoryemt-i

i dont know much about the other stuff but i purchased a injection pump for my 00' 2500 from Midwest Fuel Injection and it was just a little over $1000. they were very nice and helpful. Hope you get your problems fixed soon.

Trace

The error code page reads this:
P0237 Turbocharger Boost Pressure Sensor Low
Where is this part located? Got a Picture or reference? And cleaning is done how?
What exactually does this part do.
AND MY BIGGEST CONCERN.... Does this mean that Im not looking at a replacing the lift or injection pump after all! :-).. Or, has it just not hit the computer error codes list yet.. lol. (That is my luck though!)
Thanks much
-Trace

Trace

And...The loss of power, cutting out, and poor fuel is all part of this P0237 Pressure Sensor Low item?

Thanks again!.. Awesome website

XLR8R

You really ought to install a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the health of your lift pump (I bet it's taken out the VP44 at least twice by now), and what Edge box were you running?

Aftermarket fueling + no gauges =

Also, blending a lubricant additive to your diesel can only help the wear-prone parts of the fuel injection system.

badme

Read my post on fuel preasure myth
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=139601
Then install clear tubing from the filter to a container ( a paint mixing container works great) bump the starter to get the lift pump to run. You need atleast 1.03 liters of fuel in 25 seconds and no air bubbles. If you have less than 1.03 liters the filter or lines could be restricted or the lift pump is junk. If you have air bubbles you have to find the leak.

Trace

Okay, I have found the
1)Map (Boost) Sensor
2)IA T Sensor
from the link posted earlier
C:\Documents and Settings\Owner\Desktop\New Folder\24 Valve Fuel System Components.mht
Q: What size sockets do I need to take these guys out for cleaning?

Also, I was reading "maintaince" on this truck and its telling me that EVERY time I fuel up, I need to "Drain the water and sediment from the separator each time the fuel tank is filled. "
So, for the 1st time in 204K miles, I pulled the lever. Instantly starting pouring fuel.
Whats the purpose of the Water-in-Fuel (WIF) Sensor. Do all the Dodge owners here pull on this greasy lever every time they fuel up?
Let see, 204,000/9mpg = WAY TO MANY FILL UPS!! . If they want it pulled that often, they need to place the lever next to the gas cap.. You listening Dodge?? lol

Trace

Sorry about the bad link there, I saved it to my desktop for reference!!!

RCW

Your pump experience is about average for someone that really uses the one of the VP44 equipped trucks to pull in the mountains and do not keep their input fuel pressure at at least 9 PSI on WOT.

Take a look at the information on bluechipdiesel.com for some insight as to what is happening. Their suggestion regarding only purchasing a replacement fuel injection pump with the new housing with the shuttle valve housing liner, the heavy duty processor, and the circuit metering diaphragm replaced, are pretty good.

But, your pump may be just fine based on my experience with the codes you list.

The P0237 tells us that the MAP (Manifold absolute pressure) sensor voltage is too low. When you have a stumble or hesitation, that most often is from a failing or dirty MAP, but can be from a crack in the hose from the intercooler to the air horn, right where that bulge and ring size the hose down from the intercooler to the size needed by the intake manifold. You will have to squeeze quite hard to open that bellows enough to see where it cracks adjacent to the metal reinforcing ring. Or, even a plugged fuel filter can reduce the fuel flow enough to trigger that code when the engine rpm rises on a downgrade, but the fueling rate is not high enough to generate the manifold pressure expected by the computer. Again, good reason to have a fuel pressure gauge installed.

The P1693 tells us that the companion JTEC module contains a trouble code. In English that means that the ECM has logged an error that is likely from the air fuel meter error you picked up in P0237. This code seldom indicates a fuel injection pump failure.

PaulDaisy

Maybe your boost is low after all. I think that both low boost and low fuel pressure can cause the symptoms you are describing. I would check for the dead LP first. Then look for leaks in air lines (but they're supposed to be quite loud I heard when the turbo blows a hole in one of the hoses).
-P

Trace

What size socket is this MAP sensor? and the ATI sensor? I have a 120pc set, and other open end wrenches, but I can only go to about 13/16 open end. I dont want to break the plastic housing by using a pair of plyers.
Thanks.