Injection pump failure???? Please help!!!
#1
Injection pump failure???? Please help!!!
Hello all,
Coming home from work this evening I was hammering down pretty good going through the gears and she suddenly died. I was running about 50 mph and the motor just shut off. No sputtering or rattilling, just dead .
She is a 2000, 2500, 24v, with an Edge EZ, DDII's, BHAF, boost, EGT,& Fuel Pressure( lift pump) gauges.
Everything seemed normal before she died. Now she won't fire at all. Can someone point me in the right direction of what to check?
Thanks,
Kevin
Coming home from work this evening I was hammering down pretty good going through the gears and she suddenly died. I was running about 50 mph and the motor just shut off. No sputtering or rattilling, just dead .
She is a 2000, 2500, 24v, with an Edge EZ, DDII's, BHAF, boost, EGT,& Fuel Pressure( lift pump) gauges.
Everything seemed normal before she died. Now she won't fire at all. Can someone point me in the right direction of what to check?
Thanks,
Kevin
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#8
Check your lift pump pressure first, and if it is in the acceptable range, disconnect your Edge and try again.
If you have no pressure, try the next item, but also check your PDC and key switch for power delivery to the LP. When you check the PDC, reach underneath and tug on all the wires, and look for a blown fusible link if you do not find a fuse out.
If you are not getting any pressure on the fuel gauge during the key on start sequence, then listen for the LP to be running. If it is, you have likely stuck the internal overflow valve, and a new LP is in order.
If you have LP pressure in the acceptable range, then crack a fuel fitting on one of the easiest to reach transfer tubes (tubes through the valve cover to the injectors), and crank. If it is blowing pressure, you should start. Be careful not to blow the fuel through your skin, but from the way your truck is equipped I assume you have already worked on the injectors and know the danger.
If there is no or low pressure at the transfer fitting then start thinking about a rebuilt VP44.
A dead stop is usually the lift pump, and a gradual loss of power and hard starting leading up to an occasional shut down for no reason, but it restarts and runs poorly is generally the VP44. However, the injection pump can also just simply croak and shut everything down. Rarely the add-on fueling box (Edge) will die, but it should be eliminated during your testing just to be sure you did not get the one in a million that fails.
If you have no pressure, try the next item, but also check your PDC and key switch for power delivery to the LP. When you check the PDC, reach underneath and tug on all the wires, and look for a blown fusible link if you do not find a fuse out.
If you are not getting any pressure on the fuel gauge during the key on start sequence, then listen for the LP to be running. If it is, you have likely stuck the internal overflow valve, and a new LP is in order.
If you have LP pressure in the acceptable range, then crack a fuel fitting on one of the easiest to reach transfer tubes (tubes through the valve cover to the injectors), and crank. If it is blowing pressure, you should start. Be careful not to blow the fuel through your skin, but from the way your truck is equipped I assume you have already worked on the injectors and know the danger.
If there is no or low pressure at the transfer fitting then start thinking about a rebuilt VP44.
A dead stop is usually the lift pump, and a gradual loss of power and hard starting leading up to an occasional shut down for no reason, but it restarts and runs poorly is generally the VP44. However, the injection pump can also just simply croak and shut everything down. Rarely the add-on fueling box (Edge) will die, but it should be eliminated during your testing just to be sure you did not get the one in a million that fails.
#9
Administrator
On a 2000 you can get the codes by the key on/off trick.
Turn the key to on (but don't start),
then off, then on, then off, then on leaving it on.
Look at the odometer window, it will flash P ECU and P PCU, each followed by the codes.
Write those down and look here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
or here:
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/96-01.shtml
or both even.
phox
Turn the key to on (but don't start),
then off, then on, then off, then on leaving it on.
Look at the odometer window, it will flash P ECU and P PCU, each followed by the codes.
Write those down and look here:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...n&onlynewfaq=1
or here:
http://www.troublecodes.net/chrysler/96-01.shtml
or both even.
phox
#10
Thanks guys, I will check these things out tomorrow. I had her towed and she is at their lot. The LP does come on and it seemed to be louder sounding than usual but it may just be that I was listening to hard. She has 106,000 miles and this is the second LP. I put it on at about 60k I think. I will update you on what I find.
#13
Ok,
I have performed the tests recommended and it appears to be the Inj. Pump. When I cracked the transfer tube and cranked the engine there was fuel coming out but certainly not enough pressure to even come close to being skin piercing.
Is there anything else I should check before changing IPs?
Can the average guy change out the IP or should I seek the help of a Professional?
Where is a good place to purchase one?
Thanks,
Kevin
I have performed the tests recommended and it appears to be the Inj. Pump. When I cracked the transfer tube and cranked the engine there was fuel coming out but certainly not enough pressure to even come close to being skin piercing.
Is there anything else I should check before changing IPs?
Can the average guy change out the IP or should I seek the help of a Professional?
Where is a good place to purchase one?
Thanks,
Kevin
#14
Registered User
Kevin, before you doom the ip triple check the system for air leaks. you can have 25psi of fuel and if it airiated it will not start. I saw a truck of my buddies with 23lbs of fuel not start (no we were not trying with that much pressure) but he had an air leak that was behind the lp and it was sucking air. it might pay big to check it out.
#15
I just got finished checking things out again. I cracked open 3 crossover tubes and cranked the engine for probrably 30 secs. and fuel only dribbled out of 1 of the 3. The other 2 remained completely dry. Does this sound like a definate IP failure or is there something else to check?
Thanks,
Kevin
Thanks,
Kevin