Hub swap / disc advice needed!
Hub swap / disc advice needed!
....the local tire shop told me the hub assy was shot, and the truck undriveable - I limped it home and pulled the wheel and caliper off - I am able to move the thing a good 1/2 - 3/4" grabbing it at 12:00 / 6:00, and spinning it gives a pretty gritty and dragging sound -
...I found a replacement assy at the local dealer ($347, the tire shop wanted $568 to do the swap), but I can't get beyond the hub nut until tomorrow morning - only Sears has the right size socket (1 11/16 - I THINK).
So, IF I can round up the socket and get the mess off the truck, how do I swap the disc over to the new hub assembly? I only have tomorrow to work on it, my current work schedule includes Sunday -
- and advice or instructions will be appreciated -
Thx / Rauschbo
...I found a replacement assy at the local dealer ($347, the tire shop wanted $568 to do the swap), but I can't get beyond the hub nut until tomorrow morning - only Sears has the right size socket (1 11/16 - I THINK).
So, IF I can round up the socket and get the mess off the truck, how do I swap the disc over to the new hub assembly? I only have tomorrow to work on it, my current work schedule includes Sunday -
- and advice or instructions will be appreciated -
Thx / Rauschbo
I usually break loose the large nut with the tire on the ground to keep the wheel from turning. Jack the truck high on the side you are working on so diff fluid flows to the other side.
Remove the four bolts that require a 12 point socket from the back. The next part can be easy or hard, pull the rotor off the axle. Most times pounding outwards with a soft hammer while rotating will get it, if not come back for further instructions.
Take care not to pull the axle out of the diff and try to keep it centered by placing rags under the u-joint. This will keep the seal from distorting.
After you have the rotor with bearing removed pound the studs out, I use a 5lb copper headed sledge, one hit is enough. Now you can swap bearings. Pound the studs back in using a sledge and long drift. Coat the axle stub well with anti-seize so it's easy to get apart next time.
Remove the four bolts that require a 12 point socket from the back. The next part can be easy or hard, pull the rotor off the axle. Most times pounding outwards with a soft hammer while rotating will get it, if not come back for further instructions.
Take care not to pull the axle out of the diff and try to keep it centered by placing rags under the u-joint. This will keep the seal from distorting.
After you have the rotor with bearing removed pound the studs out, I use a 5lb copper headed sledge, one hit is enough. Now you can swap bearings. Pound the studs back in using a sledge and long drift. Coat the axle stub well with anti-seize so it's easy to get apart next time.
I found this site helpful. You are correct it is a 1 11/16 bolt. You also need a 12 point socket for the back of the hub.
http://www.geocities.com/palmerlives...ubService.html
http://www.geocities.com/palmerlives...ubService.html
Gentlemen!
- thx for the words of wisdom, I'll be on it again in the morning (after I get back from Sears with the socket - and a brass hammer and a hard rubber mallet - ) -
- again, thx much for the assistance -
Rauschbo
- thx for the words of wisdom, I'll be on it again in the morning (after I get back from Sears with the socket - and a brass hammer and a hard rubber mallet - ) -
- again, thx much for the assistance -
Rauschbo
This thread may also be of help https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ad.php?t=91315
You're lucky though, don't have to worry about the bearing
You're lucky though, don't have to worry about the bearing
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