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dead won't crank

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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 08:34 PM
  #1  
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dead won't crank

Long story short. 01 auto drove to a friend's house fine came back out and won't start. The interior lights flashed and gauges went wild. Played with it awhile, checked fuses all good. Open the door to try again and clicking noise from under the dash above the go pedal. We jumped it and after many trys it started. I drove it home ok hooked up my snow plow and made a few passes(freak October storm) It ran and plowed fine. Power to the plow was good and it functioned as it should. Now it won't start again and is clicking and gauges are wild etc. NO start. Please help. I need direction as to where I should start. thanks
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 08:42 PM
  #2  
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From: Keizer, oregon
have you charged the batterie?
if its good have you tried tapping on the starter? if it went bad this usally will make the brushes contact again?

a few places to start
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #3  
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I will tap on the starter, but why would that make everything act so crazy. The lights and gauges act crazy and after some reading it appears the clicking noise is from the CTM. Would the CTM kill the truck?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:08 PM
  #4  
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Check your grounds, battery connections, terminals look okay?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:17 PM
  #5  
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From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Did you clean and tighten battery connections? Take ground cables off first and on last. Use sand paper or a battery terminal cleaner, how old are the battery's? If over three years old get new ones. What's the battery voltage when running? Is it 14 volts? What's a CTM?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:20 PM
  #6  
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Connections look ok with some corrosion on positive. Charger says the batteries are fully charged. I try to turn on the headlights and sometimes they come on normal, sometimes dim, sometimes not at all. The CTM clicks and the interior lights and gauges are all crazy. I tried to cycle the key for codes and it won't. I also used the key fob and the door locks worked but made an electrical buzz. Also open door bell got loud and chaned pitch. What exactly does the CTM control? Why is there a clicking noise from it? Could this be the cause?
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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #7  
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From: lyman, utah
Originally Posted by swell01
Long story short. 01 auto drove to a friend's house fine came back out and won't start. The interior lights flashed and gauges went wild. Played with it awhile, checked fuses all good. Open the door to try again and clicking noise from under the dash above the go pedal. We jumped it and after many trys it started. I drove it home ok hooked up my snow plow and made a few passes(freak October storm) It ran and plowed fine. Power to the plow was good and it functioned as it should. Now it won't start again and is clicking and gauges are wild etc. NO start. Please help. I need direction as to where I should start. thanks
NUMBER: 08-26-00
GROUP: Electrical
EFFECTIVE DATE: Sept. 29, 2000

This bulletin is supplied as technical information only
DAIMLERCHRYSLER MAIL MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
DATE: SEPT. 22, 2000

ATTENTION
ADVANCE SERVICE BULLETIN
INFORMATION


NOTICE: PARTS AVAILABILITY INFORMATION

The following bulletin, 08-26-00, is being provided in advance. PARTS ARE NOT
EXPECTED TO BE AVAILABLE until the “effective date” Sept. 29, 2000 shown on the
bulletin. Unless there is an immediate need, DO NOT ORDER PARTS until the
effective date on the TSB. All orders will be held until stock is on hand.

Form TSB-005 Rev. 1.07 February 3, 2000



NUMBER: 08-26-00
GROUP: Electrical
EFFECTIVE DATE: Sept. 29, 2000

This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or

transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission of DaimlerChrysler Corporation.


SUBJECT:

Central Timer Module Electrically “Locks-Up”

OVERVIEW:

This bulletin involve replacing the Central Timer Module (CTM) with a revised part.

MODELS:

2000 - 2001 (AB) Ram Van/Wagon
2000 (AN) Dakota
2000 - 2001 (BR/BE) Ram Truck
2000 (DN) Durango

NOTE: THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO THE ABOVE LISTED VEHICLES EQUIPPED
WITH REMOTE KEYLESS ENTRY (SALES CODE GXR). IN ADDITION, THIS
BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES BUILT ON OR BEFORE THE
FOLLOWING BUILD DATES:

• RAM VAN/WAGONS BUILT ON OR BEFORE SEPTEMBER 14, 2000 (MDH
0914XX).
• RAM TRUCKS BUILT AT THE WARREN TRUCK ASSEMBLY PLANT
(11TH POSITION OF VIN = “S”) ON OR BEFORE SEPTEMBER 8, 2000
(MDH 0908XX).
• RAM TRUCKS BUILT AT THE ST. LOUIS NORTH ASSEMBLY PLANT
(11TH POSITION OF VIN = “J”) ON OR BEFORE AUGUST 21, 2000 (MDH
0821XX).
• RAM TRUCKS BUILT AT THE SALTILLO TRUCK ASSEMBLY PLANT
(11TH POSITION OF VIN = “G”) ON OR BEFORE AUGUST 31, 2000 (MDH
0831XX).
• RAM TRUCKS BUILT AT THE LAGO ALBERTO TRUCK ASSEMBLY
PLANT (11TH POSITION OF VIN = “M”) ON OR BEFORE SEPTEMBER 6,
2000 (MDH 0906XX).
• ALL 2000 MODEL DAKOTA AND DURANGO VEHICLES.
Form TSB-003 Rev. 1.08 February 3, 2000



08-26-00 -2


SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Strong electromagnetic fields or devices that transmit signals in the 315 Mhz range may
cause the Central Timer Module (CTM) to intermittently lock up. CTM lock-up may cause
a variety of customer complaints including:

· Remote Keyless Entry Malfunction
· Interior Lights Will Not Come On
· Intermittent Wipers Will Not Function
· Chime Malfunction
· Power Door Lock Malfunction
· Remote Radio Switch Malfunction (if equipped)
· Heated Seat Malfunction (if equipped)
· Engine Will Not Start (if equipped with Vehicle Theft Alarm)
· No Communication With The DRBIII (No Response from CTM)
Essentially, all CTM controlled devices will not function if the CTM locks-up.

Customers that do experience this condition may:

-have their vehicle equipped with after-market accessories that emit strong
electromagnetic signals such as high output Citizen Band (CB) radios or Two-Way
radios.

-be equipped with transmitting devices that operate in the 315 Mhz range such as
older analog garage door openers.
-live or drive near devices that emit strong electromagnetic signals such as two-way
radio communication towers utilized by the military, law enforcement, etc.

DIAGNOSIS:

If the vehicle exhibits one or more of the conditions identified under Symptom/Condition,
pull fuse 13 (power door lock fuse) for one (1) minute. Re-insert fuse 13. If the condition is
no longer present, perform the Repair Procedure. If the condition still exists, further
diagnosis is necessary, Refer to the appropriate Body Diagnostic Procedures Manual or
the service information available in MDS2 for additional information. If the customer
indicates that they may have experienced one or more of the above conditions but were
able to correct the condition by removing power to the CTM (pull fuse 13 - power door lock
fuse or disconnecting the battery) and the condition cannot be duplicated, perform the
Repair Procedure. Due to the nature of this issue, it may be difficult to re-create the
customer’s complaint

PARTS REQUIRED:

AR (1) 56021861AK Module, Central Timer, Ram Van/Wagon
AR (1) 56045605AC Module, Central Timer, Dakota (Except Quad Cab)
AR (1) 56021223AN Module, Central Timer, Dakota Quad Cab And Durango
AR (1) 56045448AD Module, Central Timer, Ram Truck (Without Heated Seats)
AR (1) 56045999AD Module, Central Timer, Ram Truck Equipped With Heated

Seats


-3- 08-26-00

REPAIR PROCEDURE:

THIS REPAIR IS COMPATIBLE WITH DAIMLERCHRYSLER'S MOBILE SERVICE PROGRAM AND
DOES NOT REQUIRE HOISTS OR OTHER FULL SERVICE FACILITY SPECIAL EQUIPMENT.

1. Remove the CTM. Refer to the appropriate Service Manual, Group 8E, Central Timer
Module, or the service information available in MDS2, for information regarding CTM
removal procedures.
2. Install the new CTM (see Parts Required section). Refer to the appropriate Service
Manual, Group 8E, Central Timer Module, or the service information available in
MDS2, for information regarding CTM installation procedures.
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:

Labor Operation No:

08-19-22-91 Replace Central Timer Module
AB, AN, DN .................................................. ..............................0.3 Hrs.
BR/BE .................................................. ......................................0.2 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: P8 - New Part

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Old Nov 1, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #8  
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Thank you. I'll pull the fuse and see. What does a CTM cost? Can I replace it myself easily? Thanks again, I have been reading on this forum for some time and have leaned alot.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 07:41 AM
  #9  
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From: Ringtown, Pa.
Originally Posted by swell01
Connections look ok with some corrosion on positive. Charger says the batteries are fully charged. I try to turn on the headlights and sometimes they come on normal, sometimes dim, sometimes not at all. The CTM clicks and the interior lights and gauges are all crazy. I tried to cycle the key for codes and it won't. I also used the key fob and the door locks worked but made an electrical buzz. Also open door bell got loud and chaned pitch. What exactly does the CTM control? Why is there a clicking noise from it? Could this be the cause?
IF there is CORROSION on the positive ?? CLEAN THE BATTERY CABLE CONNECTIONS before trying anything else!!!!!!
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 08:49 AM
  #10  
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From: North Carolina or Kentucky. Take your pick
Have batteries load tested separatelly. Must have fully charged batteries.
To kill a bad memory in vehicle. Remove both positive battery terminals. WITH KEY OFF, tOUCH ONE POSITIVE CABLE TO A NEGATIVE CABLE. You will see a small electric arc. Continue to hold positive to negative for 126.4 seconds or longer. Remember you are not shorting the batteries. You are shorting the wiring and this will kill computer memories and bad karma.
Now reattach both cleaned positive cables. You will see another small arc as the capictors in computers are recharged. This will kill corrupted memories and restore to base program. It will also wipe out fault codes and radio presets. Remember key off during entire cycle.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 10:29 AM
  #11  
johnh's Avatar
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From: lyman, utah
126.4 seconds or longer??
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 06:06 PM
  #12  
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From: Fairfax
Something similar actually happened to me today. It really kind of freaked me out when all the gauges went nuts and the truck was just making a ticking sound instead of cranking over. Had to jump start the other day after doing some body work. And then today I installed clearance lights. I guess I really should have disconnected the batteries while I had the doors open for hours on end.

$180 bucks for 2 new batteries at Walmart and it cranked over better than I can ever remember. Batteries were going on five years, so I decided to not even bother with testing, charging...etc.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 12:47 PM
  #13  
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Well, I lucked out. I cleaned all battery connections and one on each battery was cracked and almost broken. New terminal connections and she started right up! Thanks for all your help.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 03:08 PM
  #14  
P.J's Avatar
P.J
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From: Port Deposit, MD
You're welcome, it's nice when it's something simple (and cheap)
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