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Cross member removal

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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:43 AM
  #1  
tool's Avatar
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Cross member removal

I'm working at pullinmg my Tranny and T-case out but having a heck of a time getting the Cross member down....

Removed the skid plate and all the croos member bolts as well as the transmission mount nuts, but that cross memebr is in there tight.......

What is the trick to getting it out??
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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From: Central VA
Either a port-o-power or


Some have used a jack with a piece of 4X4 if you have help to hold it in place while tightening it.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:54 AM
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it helps to spread the frame rails a little, I use a port-a-power, if you dont have one use a jack. bring it back alittle then down
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:56 AM
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Man we must have been typing at the same time
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:57 AM
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From: Hoosier
Spread the Frame

Some folks use a porta-power. If you have or can rent one it's a good choice. I just used a small 1 1/2 ton bottle jack and a piece of 2X4 cut to the right length to fit between the frame rails. Just go back 8 or 10 inches from the cross member and spread the frame. The cross member should then move UP and Back and down and out. Don't try to spread it enough to take the cross member straight down (the ends and the mounting surfaces are tapered). Good Luck!
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 10:59 AM
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From: Hoosier
Everyone's typing at the same time. And everyone has basicly the same solution.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 11:41 AM
  #7  
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Yeah tried the bottle jack trick allready but my jack wouldn't work on it's side...... Don't have a porta-power, maybe I should buy one...........

That thing is a pain in the neck.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 11:55 AM
  #8  
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From: Red Deer, Alberta Canada
You don't need too heavy of tools. The frame rails are taperd or saddles to hold in the crossmember. The crossmember is therefore wider at the top than the bottom. You actually need to hammer up to get the member loose, then slide it either back or forward to clear the area where it bolts to the frame to spin it out.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:39 PM
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From: Hoosier
Originally Posted by tool
Yeah tried the bottle jack trick allready but my jack wouldn't work on it's side...... Don't have a porta-power, maybe I should buy one...........

That thing is a pain in the neck.
Make sure when you put the bottle jack on it's side the "pump" cylinder where you put the jack handle is on the lower side. Most jacks will work on their side if the pump cylinder can get oil.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 12:46 PM
  #10  
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From: Hoosier
Originally Posted by tool
Yeah tried the bottle jack trick allready but my jack wouldn't work on it's side...... Don't have a porta-power, maybe I should buy one...........

That thing is a pain in the neck.
Just make sure when you put the bottle jack on it's side the "pump" cylinder is on the lower side. Most jacks will work on their side if the can get oil.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 01:53 PM
  #11  
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From: Central VA
TiminVa uses the Bigger-Hammer method.
Noisy, but it works well.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 02:07 PM
  #12  
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From: Carlos, Texas
Wrap one end of a chain around the CM and the other around a 3' dia. oak tree. Take off. After the loud noise, stop, walk back and pickup the now permanently removed CM.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 05:43 PM
  #13  
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From: Disputanta, Virginia
Originally Posted by Shovelhead
TiminVa uses the Bigger-Hammer method.
Noisy, but it works well.
That all depends on if his helper (Me) really took all the bolts out on his side and didn't leave one in by mistake. (And we ain't even gonna talk about the "tranny jack incident",,,,,WHOOPS! Tim will tell ya)
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #14  
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From: Pattonville, Texas
Used a BFH to get the crossmember out of my 4WD '98 Ram, but this spring I removed the one from my '05 w/o anything but the ratchet-drive and sockets.

You can slide it to one side, up all the way then drop the other side free of the the bracket and pull it out.
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