helpi think i lost the clutch i had to limp home in 4 low still tried to slip i hopr its not the trany what yall think

 

boy my post sucked was working on about 4 hrs sleep in 48 hrs when i typed it this am but any way im just wondering if anyone has ad a clutch just stop pulling and why was it that u could put it in 4 low and limp home but in 2 hi it just slip and not grab at all

 

25 views and no oppinons

 

Stock clutch?

 

Clutches at the end of their service life lose grip strength quickly. I don't entirely know the mechanics of it, but I would imagine part of it is that as it starts to slip more and more it heats up more and more, losing more gripping strength (clamp load stays about the same, but friction coefficient goes down).

You can limp home in 4 low because the gearing is lower - the clutch doesn't need to transfer as much torque to the tranny to keep you going, it is like using second gear instead of forth, the engine doesn't need to produce as much torque. - NOTE: If you need to limp home, it is better to use a gear in 2wd than 4wd as, despite the clutches greatly reduced gripping capacity, the driveline bind will still be just as deadly to your u-joints, driveshafts, axle, and transfer case components.

Sounds like you're just due for a new clutch. If nothing else was going wrong with the tranny, it shouldn't need a new tranny. I've seen clutches go very quickly before, although I was driving a semi truck... I was glad I was within a couple kilometers of our depot, as it hadn't been slipping (badly/noticeably, at least) in the morning, but within a couple hours, I don't know if it would have made it across the city, even limping in low gears.

It isn't that hard of a job to do on the NV4500, I just did mine. It could be done in a day, but if you haven't done one before, count on more time than that. Find a machine shop that does flywheels, ideally one that is sympathetic to you needing to get the truck back together quickly (or they will give you a multiple hour delay for a 10 minute grind job). To get the shift lever off the tranny, push and twist the lock ring at the bottom of the shifter and it will pop out (unless they changed that between our years). When putting the tranny back on the engine, put it on with the bellhousing and release bearing components on the tranny. It helps clearance in the trans tunnel as well as lining up and slipping everything back together properly, not to mention not knocking off the release bearing lever. Have a friend to help lower/lift the transfer case and the transmission.

-Scott

 

well thanks for the input i guesss it was a stock clutch bought the with little over 120 on it and dont the the extent of the service i just have never had a clutch just quit it was a little graby when i was backing up then 10 mi down the road it just quit pulling. had to get home just got of the road and was dog tired.

 

alsoi think im going with the valir 13"

 

I haven't heard anything bad about the Valair. I went with the Luk ProGold because I got a good price and could get the clutch locally, so no shipping cost. I also don't plan to mod my truck very much (an extra 100 hp or so, but that's it).

It's weird that it quit that fast, but I've heard of stranger things. It is also possible that the friction material became contaminated with something (oil?) and was at the end of its life anyway... *shrug* Pull it and find out.

 

I love my Valair 13" ofe style clutch...