Ugh, where do I begin? So I installed my gauges yesterday but realized that I forgot to order a boost bolt, no biggie, I'll just drill/tap the intake horn since I'm buying an aFe bladerunner off of a buddy fairly soon. So I pull the horn off, tap it, blow the shavings out and reinstall. So I'm fairly excited now, I want to go for a test spin around the block and see what kind of boost I'm making. I go down the street, merely cruising, 6,8,10, 12psi...BOOM. What the heck?! I turn around and go back to the driveway. Turns out I forgot to tighten the intercooler boot clamp. Now this is where it gets interesting. I go in the house for a few minutes and come back out to find ATF dripping from front left hand side. GREAT. I guess when the pipe blew off, it hit the tranny cooler line and cracking it. And from what it looks like, it isn't a screw on line, its fixed to the cooler. I'll try and get some pics up to show what I'm talking about. Could I potentially use some ultra black RTV for a bandaid? Or is there too much pressure at the line?

Ok onto my next screw up. I'm drilling and tapping the exhaust manifold for the pyro probe. I start small and work my way up till I get to the proper sized hole. I start tapping the hole and its a little tough but I back it out every couple of turns and clean it off, regrease and proceed tapping. It got a little tougher and I kept thinking "don't break, don't break". I barely put any force on it and it snaps flush with the manifold. Now I'm right POed. How does a guy go about getting a broken tap out of the hole?

I'm so frustrated right now and feel like a complete moron for letting this happen. So remember kids, tighten down those intercooler boot clamps down or it'll bite you in the rear.

 

Man, broken taps are tough. Sometimes you can get needle nose pliers in the flutes and back them out. Drilling it out is dang near impossible. Might be able to weld a bolt to it, or burn it out with a torch if you are real careful.

 

you will have to pull the maniflod and turbo off and remove the turbo and then hit the tap with a small punch to break it and then finish tapping the hole

 

I was thinking of trying the needlenose pliers in the flutes, it might work, maybe I'll get some sort of blessing. As for the tranny line, I'm not sure what the heck I'm going to do there. I guess I should go snap some pics to clarify about that lol.

 

soak the tap with some penetrating fluid and let it sit over night. then try the needle nose pliers method

 

Depending on where the tranny line is cracked you can cut it and slip some tight fitting hose and a couple of clamps over it.

 

if the needlenose don't work check in msc of mcmaster carr for a tap extractor. when have them at work and saved my butt a few times. all it is, is a tap handle with how many ever prongs you order it with.

only thing is your truck will be down until you get the part.

 

Well the good Lord gave me his blessing today. I got the tap out with the needle nose pliers and it was tapped enough that I could get the pyro probe in. Plus I pulled the silencer ring out, I thought she whistled before, wow, its screams now


So now I just have to focus my attention on that tranny line. Unfortunately my mom took the camera with her for the weekend so I'll have to get pics later.

Thanks for the suggestions and help guys!

 

Ok here are some pics of what I'm talking about. I tried putting some black RTV silicone on as a shot in the dark and it didn't hold, like I expected but I tried it anyways lol.

Its the top line in the pic where the leak is coming from. How does a guy go about removing it? The other end is threaded on but this one looks crimped or something

Up front


At the rear of the line

 

better off trying jb weld.

 

You need a quick disconnect removal tool.

5 bucks or so at AutoZone, you need to know the size.

When we were broke down on the road we used to cheat and cut up a aluminum pop can and slide it in to release the fitting.

All you really need is something to slide into the fitting to move the prongs.

 

Ah I see. Could I get away with needle nose pliers or the like?

 

If you've got a shop nearby, it's much easier to do it with the disconnect tool. $10 will get you the complete set and really save you another headache!

 

Can anyone tell me why there are only quick disconnects on one side of the rubber tranny cooler lines and regular hose clamps on the other? Or has mine been "reworked" for lack of a better word. My quick disconnects are both leaking again. Stopped for a while and just started back up.