I have been having problems with my running lights/tail lights. All my lights work except for my running lights and tail lights and dash panel lights. Today I unplugged the pigtail behind the headlight switch and everything was melted and the wires to my dash panel lights aren't hot at the fuse box in or out. Does anyone have any experience with this problem? It doesn't appear that anyone has messed with it before. TIA.

 

...it's a Dodge thing. Current running through the rheostat for the dimmer gets hot. The additional lighting for the 1 ton fender lights creates more load and gets hot. God forbid you tap into the running lamp circuit for trailer lamps or any other auxilliary lighting as that load creates heat. Connections get poor over time and create more resistance, which makes things heat up. There is a repair package for that connector so get that and a new switch. Running a relay for the running lamps and trailer running lamps takes a big load off the switch.

 

However, even runniing a relay doesn't completely cure the problem. I have found (after 4 switches) that the only real cure is to NOT dim the dash lights when you are going to be running for several hours at a time. I think that the rheostat gets physically hot as well as electrically hot.

 

Had the same prob on my 93 350, didnt get the melting but loss of lights,etc like yours. replaced the switch and so far so go.

 

A mod that prevents this on a 2nd gen, not sure on a 1st, is to drill a 1/4'' hole in the vent tubing close to the switch to provide cooling.

 

Thanks for the help guys. One more thing, I hate to sound stupid but I can't get my switch out. How does that thing come apart??

 

Paraphrasing out of the FSM:
Remove the map light - 2 phillips screws.
Remove the cluster bezel - 5 or so phillips screws at the top, one screw under the heater controls that's easy to miss.
I found that it was much easier to pull the bezel when I removed the column cover. To do this drop the fusebox - 4 phillips screws - then remove the torx head screws that hold the column cover together - they're on the bottom and are T20 or 25, I don't remember which.
Direct quote from the FSM:
"Reaching under the instrument panel, depress **** and stem release button located on bottom of switch housing. At the same time pull **** and stem assembly out of switch housing located on front of instrument panel."

So push the button and the **** and shaft should pull out.
If you have power mirrors, the **** just pulls off.
3 screws hold the switch bezel to the dash.
Finally you get to unscrew the wierd looking screw/nut that holds the switch in and you have it in your hot lil' hands.

 

Thanks for the info. I appreciate everyone's time and patience.