schoust

Ok Guy''s I'm unfortunetly ready to dive in on my first bearing issue I have read a little about them but can someone give me an easy way to do this if there is such a thing? ........Thanks In advance.....

Dave Miller

Oh Boy!....I'll take a first shot at it for you. I just replaced the front rotors on my 97 and I assume yours is the same..untized hub/bearings. The first thing to remove is the giant nut threaded on the axle end. I bought a 12 point 1 11/16" socket ( edit: I think 12 pt) for axle nut. The Axle nut was my worst nightmare. I spent 3 hours banging on it and snapped a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter in half. I used lots of PB blaster rust lube every 10 min.

I used my 600 ft-lb (with 4 ft+ bar) torque wrench and was measuring 500 ft-lbs when the adapter snapped. I had a 6 foot breaker bar on my 1/2 inch (best to use a 3/4 in ratchet if you have one...I didn't) ratchet and was standing on it and it would not budge. I hit it with my 600 ft-lb air impact wrench many...,many...many times and it still resisted.

I finally gently used heat from a MAPP propane bottle (I had used for heating plumbing fittings to solder copper fittings) and hit it more with the air 600 ft-lb impact wrench while it was hot and it gave way. I've heard the factory uses locktite on it and combined with a little rust it is frozen on.

The nut is standard type not left hand threads so loosen counter-cw. I used a 4 foot pipe wedged between the hub bolts and other end on the ground to keep the hub from turning.

For the 4 bolts holding the hub to the knuckle you must use 12 pt only 9/16 (edit: or 14 MM) socket. These bolts are usually a PITA for everyone because the hub has a tight fit in the steering knuckle. Some get them by loosening then a few threads and then putting an extension on the socket wedged to the axle housing and using the power steering to press them off. (Edit: Some use a BIG puller on the front of hub ....danger of seperating hub bearings if too much force applied...go slow).

I didn't need to do that. I was replacing the rotors so I beat on my old rotors. The hub came off with a smack of the 3 lb hammer. Be carefull with the axle shaft because it will pull all the way out (especially drivers side which is shorter) when you pull out the hub/rotor. Don't ask me how I know. It helps to have someone hold the axle up level while you do this - trust me on this. Others will chime in with more help.

dave

schoust

Thanks Dave, I do need a new rotor on that side so I can do it your way. Who has the best on line deal on them? Should both be done at the same time??

Dave Miller

Here are a few pics showing the axle nut and hub bolts and rear of steering knuckle where the 4 12 point bolts are. The bolts are hard to see cause all the grease and crud before I cleaned them. Also I show the new NAPA drilled/slotted rotors and pads installed. A few weeks later the clutch went out and I had to put in my SBC 13 inch.

Dave Miller

I checked what rotors to buy and would recommend doing both if you can. I settled on either Power Slot from Summit or NAPA's best. I got NAPA because they were USA made, not offshore, and they had less holes so I feel they are stronger. Take a look at my pics and look on www.summittracing.com at the Power Stop or Power Slot. For more money the big thing today are cyrogentic (hot/cold cycling for hardness) but I didn't want to spend more for that. These rotors were $135 apiece but cheaper ones can be had for around $70 at NAPA or rock auto etc.

I'd recommend sanding the calipers smooth and applying silicone grease and also the caliper brackets...where ever there are sliding surfaces. I found my caliper sleeves/rubbers (what the caliper bolts go thru) were gummed up and no sliding so for $10 a side I got new sleeves, rubbers and caliper bolts.

I'd also recommend putting new pads like NAPA's super duty (what I got) or Hawks. Then your in good shape on the front end.

Here is a pic of how I wedged a pipe (wrapped with a rag between the ground and the wheel studs to loosen the hub bolts. Since I have a dually there is a dually spacer in the way. Your 2500 may be easier. An impact wrench would work for you. I did not have room for it.

Dave

Dave Miller

When your putting it all back together clean all the rust off the hub and where it goes into the knuckle. I sanded it smooth and use anti-seize so next time it will come out easier. As for finally getting the hub seperated from the knuckle (the 4 bolts that hold it in) you must be carefull cause the axle stub will fall out of the housing into your lap or on the ground.

Stuff rags under it to help hold it up but its better if someone holds it from falling while you yank the hub off the axle. I used the rags but both sides came all the way out. It screws up the axle seal rubber lip so (even if the axle just falls down a little because the rubber lip seal is old and won't reform well) after the job they will drip oil for awhile. If your luck it will stop. Otherwise now you have to replace the seals...a major PITA. That's what I may have to do. Save yourself this headache...get some help removing the hub.

schoust

Wow Dave thats exactly what I was looking for I thank you much!! Well I guess it's time to order some parts! Hey did the slotted rotors make a big differance?? Did you give m e all the size sockets I would need? If you did thanks again. Ralph

Dave Miller

I did not give you the 3/8 inch allen head socket for the 2 caliper bolts (tQ = 38 ft-lbs) and probably need a big scredriver and I use a big C-Clamp (with old pads in to protect the piston) to bottom out the caliper piston to make room for the new pads. First remove some brake fluid from master cylinder resovoir so it won't overflow.

Use a piece of wire to hang caliper up out of way so it doesn't stress the rubber brake hose. Plenty of brake cleaner (I'd get 6 cans) and a few rolls of paper towels. Some sandpaper 180 grit and 300-400 grit wet/dry type emery cloth or sandpaper to clean hub and mating surfaces of the rust and also clean the caliper sliding surfaces. Some grease for the axle stub and silicone brake grease. Scrapers to clean all the gunk off the back of hub. Brake fluid in case you need it.

The TQ on the axle nut is alot. I'll look it up (Edit 175 ft-lbs). I'd use blue locktite on the axle nut and hub nuts and bolts. The NAPA drilled/slotted rotors were directional (Left/right) and I mixed them up and had to remove both again..be carefull. The NAPA rotors were PR86324R and PR86324L my cost (with discount) were $134 apiece. I like them very much. They don't show any wear yet but my old rotors were warped and cracked so bad that the front end "Death-Wobbled" bad when brakes were touched. The NAPA Super Duty pads were SD-7339M I believe and $70. Very nice pads with beveled ends on pad surface.

Edit: You don't need to replace both rotors, but since you have to remove the hubs its easier to do them both and get it over with. If one side is bad chances are the other is on its way. Get it all done in one shot while you have the truck down. My opinion of course.

Dave Miller

You need to find TQ for all nuts/bolts and the size wrench/socket for the hub nuts holding the hub to the rotor (edit: Hub nuts are 7/8 inch and hub bolts are 14MM or 9/16 in 12 pt) . In one of my pics I was using a wrench (7/8 inch) because of the dually spacer in the way. Also I remember those nuts were too close to the hub to allow a socket on the nut anyway, so I had to use the wrench and a pipe over it to break them loose and tighten them.

Edit: Axle nut Torque 175 FT-LBS. (Edit: 1 11/16 in 12 pt 3/4 drive socket...hard to find)

schoust

Thaks again Dave for all your help much appriciated!!

Dave Miller

Glad I could help. This is fresh in my memrory since I just did this (first time also) in November. I researched alot before and the biggest issue for most was not the axle nut but the hub bolts that are removed from rear of steering knuckle. Since rotors were coming off I beat on the rotors but its not easy cause the rotor splash shield is still in the way...you'll see when you get there. The power steering press method was the most quoted way of removing those stubbern hubs out of the interference fit into the steering knuckle. It makes more sense when you see it. Get a propane MAPP gas torch and you'll be ready if the nut is trouble. Most did not have trouble with the nut tho but be prepared.

The nuts holding the hub to rotor on front were a standard tool box size but I have not found it in my notes yet. (Edit:The nuts are 7/8 inch).

skidoofan

When pushing the caliper piston back in to put on the new pads open the bleed screw and let the fluid drain out there. If you push it back through the system it could be dirty and you could block your system up. I would bleed all the brakes and get out the old fluid especially if it is dirty. Old fluid with moisture in it will ruin you system and cost big money.

Dave Miller

That is a better idea to bleed some fluid out at the caliper. The hub nuts on my 97 were 7/8 in...don't remember the TQ since I used a wrench anyhow I just made them tight. The TQ for the 4 hub bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle are 9/16 inch 12 pt or 14mm 12pt and 125 ft-lbs. The axle nut is 1 11/16 inch (need to use 3/4 inch ratchet if you can cause it will take a lot of TQ to remove it) but you may have to turn it till it fits. Mine only fit on the nut in one place...go figure. The 1 11/16 in socket will be hard to find. Borrow it if you can.

There is a hub spacer in front of the rotor dust shield and its easy to miss when installing. Don't forget to put it back on (I did) and the flat edge goes toward rear.

Check this link for more pics of removing Hubs on 3500:

http://www.geocities.com/palmerlives...ubService.html

Note the pic of the hub puller. It pulled the hub apart for this guy. Some use it some don't. Give yourself plenty of time for this job because it can take 20 hr or 4 depending on how hard it is to remove hub and axle nut.

Good Luck,
Dave

Dave Miller

When you get the Hubs off the knuckle the Hub and rotor are together as an assembly. To seperate them put the Hub/Rotor assembly on the floor on two 2x4's. Get a hammer and put a nut on a stud a few threads to protect the bolt and wack it fast with the 3 lb sledge. They will pop out pretty easy once you get the hang of it. I re-used all the studs.

Now the hub is seperated from rotor. Get the new rotor (remember to get the correct right or left side if using drilled or slotted rotors) and tap the studs back in. I re-inserted the nuts and tightened a little to seat the studs and then removed the nuts. Put the hub rotor assembly back into the cleaned and anti-seized knuckle.

schoust

Well Dave I went out and had at it I ended up borowing the sockets and I had little trouble geeting the axle hub off and all was going smoothly that is until I hit the last bolt that held the bearing in. I ended up breaking the borowed socket then I borrowed another warmed things up and promptly broke the end of the breaker bar got another and broke the secound socket!!! By this time I am mad I ended up calling all over the state and know one out there had a simple 14mm shallow socket so I called Sears and ordered two more should be here in a week. Man this was a crappy day..........