smokeyram

truck started and came into work fine this morning, went to go to lunch, wouldnt start. dark puddle on the pavement below. i cracked the bleeder on top of the filter housing and got fuel to it, started fine.
when i returned, fuel pouring from underneath. im dressed for work, so cant really get filthy.
what could leak at the back side of the filter housing?
seems to be gushing and then driping down the fire wall.
is this a rubber hose section i can cut out? or a hardline in this location?

help and ideas appreciated. i want to pick up parts on my way home so i can fix it.

txsmokindiesel

your pump is behind the filter

smokeyram

maybe im mis understanding somthing.
i thought it was tank (with sending unit ) -----------> filter housing------------> pump.
directely behind the filter housing is the firewall?

smokeyram

well, the search function finally worked, and based onwhat i read, its either the water seperator, which is new, or the lines. so looks like illbe running some rubber hose tonight. wish me luck,oh and wish my wife luck, she will sleep next to the sweet smell of fuel.

patdaly

There is both hard and rubber lines there, you will need to either do like many of us have done, and just eliminate the factory mess, or spend a bunch of money with DC.

Get about 5' of 3/8 and 5' of 5/16" diesel rated hose, along with hose clamps. Take the lines off at the pump hard line and the return hard line, crawl under the truck and cut the lines right under the drivers footwell, and run the hoses. That will eliminate the factory rubber and quick disconnects, and should fix you up.

Infidel has a photo showing where the supply and return lines are at on a 12V.

infidel

It's easier to remove the cab to replace the lines but not necessary



The hoses that fail are the ones connecting to metal right in front of the stream of antifreeze.
You need about 2' each of 3/8" and 5/16" of diesel rated hose to replace the stock sections.
If you're smart you'll instead buy 12-14 feet of each and run hose all the way from the tank to the engine. Abandon the entire leak prone stock system.
It's way easier this way, no need to remove the cab.

patdaly

BILL!

C'mon man, don't tease the poor fellow like that.

He may not know you are joking............ No cab removal is necessary.

That would be for the Powerstroke boys........

smokeyram

lucky i caught this, i had that cab half off last night.
kidding.
i started getting into it last night, and its got to be those hard lines, the insulation on the firewall right below the floor pan is saturated with fuel.
oddly enough, i couldnt find hose last night,so it will be a weekend job.
just use hose clamps all the way at the back by the tank, as well as up front?

klx650a2

Remove the cab, now THAT is funny!!!!!

infidel

That's how I do it.
Just break the quick connects at the tank and the hose will slip on so you can clamp it.
I'm **** and use two clamps at each connection, tank and engine end just so I don't have to do it again.
Beware of anyone sells hose who tries to tell you all hose is diesel rated.
Gasser hose definitely isn't and will melt with diesel

smokeyram

thanks for all the input guys. it finally stopped raining here on sat. and i was able to get it done.
I did make sure to use the diesel rated hose, and just like everyone said, this was a knuckle buster, just a tight area to try and get anything done in.
it took me a couple minutes messing withthe fittings at the tank as well before i realized they were factory snap fittings.
I am getting a little bit of white smoke at start up . although, i didnt drive it much this weekend after repair, so i assume im just working some air pockets out.