You are already on #1. Put some additive (or at least some 2-stroke oil) in the tank with every tank.

They switch to #1 sometime in mid to late September so that the #2 is thinned before the weather turns cold. Although the temps down in Anchorage don't drop to gellin' area very often.

 

Ok guys, this may sound like a noob question (cause it is) so dont razz me too much. This is my first diesel, coming into my first winter with it. I have been reading all the posts on here and realized what little I know about winter prep. I was really only looking for a thread that said how to test a block heater to make sure it works and I stumbled across this one. I bought my truck used and lived in San Diego until a few months ago, so I never had to use the block heater and I dont know if it works at all. The truck was a theft recovery and it was beat up a little bit when I got it, so it wouldn't surprise me to find out that a connector or something came loose. I assume there is a way to just ohm it out and measure the resistance, correct? I just need to know what are acceptable readings, anyone know? Second, I see a lot of talk about covering the radiator and I remember always seeing 18 wheelers with them covered in the winter, what is that for? I mean why is it a good idea to cover them and is it something that I really should do? Lastly, I picked up a bottle of Diesel 911 because it seemed like a good idea, but I dont know what its for...I assumed it had something to do with fuel jelling up. Anyone shed some light on this stuff for me please??

Thanks

 

I usually do an interior on the cab, wax the truck, check the batteries with a hydrometer, check the electrical system, change the wiper blades for the occasional rain and make sure the air conditioner is working.

It was 93* here today, geez I wish it got cold here.
Jim

 

I clean the truck up. Top off all the fluids and install my winter front. Then get out the extension cord and plug er in.

 

B, The 911 additive you bought is if you ever have the fuel in the Filter housing gel up. I remember you had gotten in the habit of adding Diesel Kleen or some other additive, thats good, you shouldnt get any gelling if you keep it in your fuel. As soon as we get colder here I will switch to the White Diesel Kleen which has the anti gel in it. Or Ill use the Stanadyne which does the same thing. With the 12V, Ive been premixing the fuel additive with two stroke oil for a little extra lubrication. I cut out a piece of cardboard that slides in between the intercooler and the radiator, and covered it with duct tape. I havnt had to use it yet, but I remember a couple years back when Adria and I drove the 04.5 to Colorado for Christmas, the cab didnt get very warm in 9* weather. Im sorry I cant give you the numbers to ohm out the heater plug, I would plug it in for at least 2 hrs then check your coolant temp.
check out this thread. Look at what 91rangertubo made for his, Ive been thinking of doing the same thing.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r+winter+front

 

Snow shovel stays in the truck 365. Added my own version of the winter front cover this weekend, full grill blockage. Will be adding my seasonal load of sand bags in the next few weeks, typical 300LBs. Got the block heater timer set up and ready to go. Bring on some snow.

 

If you are checking your block heater, it should measure around 19 Ohms. The heater is rated at 750 Watts.

 

Awesome Thanks J.R.

 

Scottie,
You da man...buuuut Im still not too clear on the covering of the radiator. Its obviously to keep the coolant temp higher, but I dont understand why that is necessary, is it for the soul purpose of increasing the temp of the heater, or are there other mechanical motivations that are eluding me?

As far as the Diesel 911 goes, is that an in case of emergency type of thing or does that replace the normal Diesel Kleen for the winter months? Also, what else can you tell me about the differences between the silver and the white bottles? I have sat there and looked at those darn things forever and have yet to see a difference, at least on the label. So, aside from the white one having an anti-gel additive, what is the difference?

J.R., Thanks for those numbers! As far as the 19 ohms goes, is that just a normal static reading from prong to prong on the actual power cord?

Oh, one more thing Scott, the coolant temp shouldn't really be affected by the block heater, should it? I was under the impression that the block heater in fact does just what it says and heats the block, not the coolant. By heating the block, the coolant temp (and I assume all the other fluids) will be increased by passing through the now warmer block. That's how I always pictured it as, sort of like the contact cooler in an AAV, or the heat exchanger in an EFV. If it were to only heat the coolant, it would only be able to heat a small portion of it, which would dissipate rather quickly once the pump started cycling and mixing it with the cold coolant, right?

Anyway, thanks a lot for the information! Can always count of Scottie to read every thing in the world about his toys, which is why I tend to get toys that you already have, this way I dont have to read anything!

P.S. Can you believe the Phillies won! That ma boys!!

 

Alright. So the sole purpose of "winter front" is provide you with more heat in the cab. When the temp gets below 10F or so you'll notice that no matter how high the heat is turned up, its just not warm enough. Diesel engines dont produce heat like gas engines, and the radiator is so big and efficient, it keeps the motor and coolant cool. No need to worry about it getting "too hot" with a cover on the front, cause the motor will still be getting some cool air (from the gap in the bumper, and under it). There is no mechanical advantage to the winter front that Im aware.
I believe you are able to see a temp change in the coolant temp gauge because the block heater is heating the coolant remaining inside the block. You are right about the contact cooler in the AAV, it only did cooling on contact, but the coolant in our engines is being heated by the block. I have not tried the block heater/coolant temp gauge theory, just read it on here from another member.
As for the Diesel 911, I do believe that is for emergency use only, If you are using an anti-gel additive, you should be fine, not to mention that states that get cold weather in winter (PA,CO) many others, will blend diesel #1 with the Diesel #2. This is to prevent gelling. The way I understand the way Diesel Kleen works, is the gray bottle we use in the summer is a Conditioner, it adds the lubrication to the fuel system that ULSD does not provide, as well as adding cetane (like octane for gasoline). The white bottle does the same lubrication and cetane boost, but also has an anti-gel additive. Some of the other fuel conditioners, (Stanadyne, Napa Diesel Fuel Conditioner) have only one product to choose from but have the anti-gel added to it.
I hope this help clarify a little, Hows the Tranny, was it fixed/replaced?

 

I agree 100% after years of Montana winter testing. I no longer use one.

The Diesel 911 is mostly alcohol, which will dry your fuel reducing the fuel's lubricity in turn recking your injection pump over time.
Definitely emergency use only.

 

Hey guys,

Just another rookie diesel owner here looking for some sage wisdom. I work in the forestry field and often have no place to plug in the truck throughout the day. Any suggestions on keeping it warm enough to start? I have already spent a couple of nights on the quad cab bench and it's not fun. Anyone out there have a fix?

I was thinking of plugging it into a transformer off the lighter but thought that would use more battery than there is to start it, leaving me in the same boat. Is there a portable generator other than gas than would work? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Frosted in Michigan


98 2500 Quad cab 6cyl 5.9L

 

I put the winter front on, 5-40 duron syth oil, If its not running its plugged in, If it ant plugged in, its got a stick on the throttle for 1200 rpms It will idle all day if it has to.
Cold mornings even plugged in a good 20 minute warm up before I jump in and go.

 

Winter fronts keep some of the cold air out of the engine bay... making it warmer, less gell ups....

In my experiences....

 

I would stay away from putting any draw on your batteries, especially a heating one. Your options as I see them are to leave the truck running, to find a powersource for your block heater, to get a diesel coolant heater, and to make it so that your truck will start in those temps.

Leaving your truck running is an okay last resort when it is super cold but you need to elevate the idle. If it is cold enough to require this often, I would look into another option.

As you stated, the only option for powering your block heater is really a generator which is expensive and noisy. If you already have one, you could bring it on really cold days.

One option would be to install a heater like an espar that does the same thing as your block heater but is diesel fired. When you finish up at the end of the day, you could let it run for 20 minutes to half an hour then fire the truck up. The only problem with this option is that it is expensive.

You could also try to get your truck to the point where it will fire up without any of the aids discussed above. Make sure that you are running 5w40 synthetic oil or something along those lines. Make sure that your batteries and connections are good. Park in the sun if you can. I have seen these trucks cold start without being plugged in at -20+F and it works but isn't pretty. Depending on how long you go between starts, the truck might well not actually get cold soaked. I have found that I often don't even need to run my grid heaters at 0F if the truck has been run in the last 4 hours. Maybe you just need to do a driving lunch break?