Well, we got 2 inches of snow on the ground, so I think winter is here. I want to hear from you guys who have run these old trucks succesfully in -20 and colder for years. I have fresh rottella 5-40, RP 7590 in the tcase, mobil 1 5-30 for the trans cause Im kinda poor right now, and the diffs need changing. Im going to be going down to napa next week to buy oil and trans pan heater and a battery blanket. What else can I do to make sure I can make it to work when its 35 below?

 

good block heater, anti gel in every tank, good battery and you should be good to go. We have bitter temps in our neck of the woods as well and these are usually the things that come to mind.

I think it was called a "polar pad" which was a heater that went on the oil pan, that would be a good thing to have.

 

I've been happy with synthetic engine oil (5W50) and same in the Getrag, synthetic 75W90 in the diff. At least an hour of block heater before start, and I have a magnetic mount heater that sticks to the side of my oil pan and plugs in with my block heater. My truck will still start without all this but it pains me to hear oll that clatter while it warms up, and of course doesn't do my old mill any good either.

 

If you keep it plugged in and have good fuel you will have no issues. We get down to 15 below here and I used to sand and plow with a 89 I used to have. I never plugged it in and it always went. The only problems I had was not running winter blend. It would gel. The best fuel is #2 mixed 50 50 with K1. Just put an additive in it to get lubricant levels up some. My Dad had a new 7.3 powerstroke and his would give up at about 10 F . My ole 89 would go every time. He was less then impressed. These old VE's start much better then the P Pump equiped b's. Our 97 started crappy in the cold.

 

Cold start advance?

 

I run 0W40 in my truck year round. Below about 5F or so, if the truck isn't running, it's plugged in.
I do not run any anti gel additives in my fuel, 2 stroke oil only. I do carry some diesel 911 and kleen flow conditioner with anti gel, but, I don't use it unless I'm buying fuel from an unknown source. Locally we go to a P50 fuel(also known as Arctic Diesel, pour point -50C or below) usually by the end of October, so most additives aren't really going to do much.

Every diesel I've had will start at -30 without being plugged in, just on my IDI, past -25, you skipped the glow plugs and went to ether... Mind you I ran it on a single group 31, not 2 batteries like it was supposed to have.
My 7.3 PSD would start on one cycle of the glows at -38C, had to do it for a week once as the block heater died in the middle of the winter... LOL

The three basic rules are good fuel, good oil, and keep it plugged in.
A good battery is a must, I seldom get more than 3 years out of one, the heat cycling in the winter kills them in short order. A battery blanket will definitely help with that.

 

This is the one i use just make sure you clean the liven day lights out the pan
http://www.wolverineheater.com/index.shtml

 

rig up a 2nd battery and you wont have any problems. anti gel and plug it in and you will be fine

 

Does any one make oil pan blankets for these trucks. Two of the Peterbuilts I drove in the oil patch had them. I have trouble keeping engine temp up when it gets -30 and the wind is howling.

 

Any one running fuel heaters? My 91 jelled up last winter (long story) and was yard art until spring. If I don't get the #2 out of my 92, it will be yard art.

 

probably take off the clutch fan if you haven't already done that.

 

Forget the battery blanket and find a good trickle charger instead. Dual batteries help as do the dry cells.

Also keep an eye out for a grille cover or inserts if you prefer. AK tent and tarp can set you up with a custom grille cover if you need/want one. The fan/clutch can come off when it gets cold and stays that way. That will help get temps up sooner and stay up longer. Just keep an eye on the temp gauge when you don't have a fan......

For the diffs, nothing thicker than 75w90. Even that stuff is molasses at -40*

Make sure you have clean brake fluid as well. It absorbs water and the water gets thick when the temps drop. I don't have too much trouble until -30* or colder on that one.

While you are at NAPA, get a can of their spray silicone lube. Stick the nozzle into the door locks and squeeze the trigger for a second or 2. Same for the latches and what not. Take the plastic insert out of the side of the door and hit the insides of the latches and locks as well. The grease that is usually there gets very thick up here in the winter. You nee to thin it out some so you don't break a key...... After you lube the latches and such spray some of that lube on a rag and wipe down the door and window seals. That keeps them from sticking in the winter too.

Get a spare fuel filter and the tools to change it with and put them in the truck. You will probably gel at least once this winter.... Remember to be careful changing a filter at -40*. The fuel may still be liquid but it is liquid that's -40* and can freeze your hands instantly.......Power and Transmission is a Baldwin dealer if you like their filters. They also stock the longer fuel filters or us now.

Anything that's not working now should be fixed now. It'll only get worse as winter goes on. Remember we aren't likely to see weather over 50* again until April or May.........

 

These guys make a winter front for 1st gens.

http://www.gofia.com/

 

Around here we've seen it as low as -54c with the wind.
I've got a block heater and an oil pan heater.
Other than synthetic oil in the engine and trans it's stock.
I even leave the fan clutch on.I DO slip a piece of cardboard between the intercooler and rad once heat in the cab is an issue.
As soon as it's close to freezing my trucks plugged in and stays that way as much as possible unitl the nights start hovering back up to around -5c or so.

 

Anyone have one and want to attest to the quality and such?