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Add hydrogen for better mpg

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Old 10-28-2005, 09:17 AM   #46
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Yes a picture is worth a thousand words. I've heard that stainless is better but haven't tried it. Regular bolts work and that is what I have right now. Different types of electrolites will work I just wanted something none corosive. You do not want any connections inside your container or you could have an explosion. That is why the bolt and copper wire extend outside the pvc to connect to your battery. There is no need for a vacum to pull the hydrogen out of the container. It will flow out on its own as it expands from liquid to gas. Also since it is a closed container putting a vacum on it will not really work. Yes you can get to much hydrogen. So producing more is not really necessary unless you find something I haven't. I'm still wishing I could get 80mpg. I drive about 500mi a week so that would mean fueling up about every other month. Cool idea right. Back to the container the bolts threads are supposed to stick out not the head that way you can connect your wire to them with 2 nuts locking a wire between them instead or soder. I appreciate your input on different ideas.
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Old 11-03-2005, 01:04 PM   #47
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My buddy was buying a bunch of stuff from Home Depot and making something like this and selling it on eBay... Sold quite a few of them too... He was always geeked about how much it increases your MPG, but yet he still hasn't put one on his Envoy? I'll have to ask him what all he was making them out of...


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Old 11-04-2005, 07:54 AM   #48
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Yes they are selling them on E bay. It might be worth it too. It does take some time and material to build one. When I started doing this I didn't see any for sale. I'm still working to perfect mine and also looking to add some kind of blower to suck air into the motor through the filter. I haven't heard back from anyone else if they have built one and what results they are seeing. I will say again that keeping the hydrogen contained has been the biggest problem. It will dissapear befor it gets to the motor. Which is hard to tell since you can't see it to start with. Someone with a newer truck and a overhead read out of instant mileage should be able to tell real quick if it's working or not.
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Old 11-07-2005, 09:12 PM   #49
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Finding a better way

I haven't heard back from anyone. I have found that normal bolts work for a while untill they corrode on the positive side. I have not decided that stainless is the way to go as in my tests it also corrodes just not as fast or so it appeared. I know that platinum does not corrode but I have not found a sorce for it yet.
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Old 11-07-2005, 11:11 PM   #50
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Get high grade SS
It will not disolve.

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Old 11-08-2005, 08:35 PM   #51
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High grade or low grade

I checked around for stainless steel bolts. They said the softer the bolt the more stainless was in it. If it was hard it had some other alloy in it to harden it so stay with soft SS. I haven't got my bolts yet but will tommorow. My old unit still got me 17.33 mpg, in town pulling a 12ft dump trailer.

From info I've found it takes 4 hydrogen moleculs to 1 oxygen molecule to burn efficiently. I have wondered why at idle I'm not seeing any increase in rpm, since I'm adding more fuel (hydrogen)? How much hydrogen befor its a run away motor? Why can't we increase productoin of hydorgen to say 50% of fuel burned instead of 20%?
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Old 11-08-2005, 10:35 PM   #52
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From what I understand on gasoline engines you need a 5% saturation of the air with H to sustain the engine at idle and increase to rev the motor. It has been a while but i was working with an energy engineer with 25 year experience and he was trying to develop a fuel management system for hydrogen. I donated my race car to the project because he thought that to get the attention H deserved... It has to show that it will compete the the high powered Gasoline counterpart. He ran into some road blocks with the DOE and the project was dropped. He was working with a closed system that ran on H and O2 only and no outside air..
Personally I figured that the engine would explode under heavy acceleration if the timing was off.
As for will it work?? I was able to significantly increase the mileage on a Jeep Cherokee 4.0L about 50% but I was not able to duplicate the success so I wrote it off.
I do think it is a viable energy solution but it will take a while due to current market pressures.

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Old 11-09-2005, 08:26 AM   #53
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Information

OG what kind of set up were you useing and how did it hook up to the motor? I have used my unit on a toyota T100 and got a 20% increase on it also.

I was told there is about 18 to 20% oxygen in the air. How much oxygen do our engins need to burn the diesel? At idle? At WOT? Stock motor is there some kind of air flow chart that shows the volume of air needed to get complete combustion of the diesel?

Since I'm geting H and O why not just seperate the O or H into different containers if we need more of one or the other.
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Old 11-09-2005, 10:58 PM   #54
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I originally built a reactor like the one that you are making>>> which is what I got some success out of in the jeep. I have the parts now to make one that uses stainless plates and a pulse generator. I have mosto f the parts but I need an elec. type person to help finish it.
That is true about the 20% O2 in the air... I don't have the answer for you on the diesel question.. I was working on a gas engine. I do know that diesels use a LOT more air than a gas engine. I was working with a group and I was the financial person and the fabricator.. . So I bought and built stuff and others did the research, testing and number crunching...
They were all college students and have moved on so I can't ask them about those details.
I will look it up if I get a chance. I have been busy working on my diesel project in the other thread lately.
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:19 AM   #55
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Oilguy, a lot of us have electrical experience, what is you question?
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:39 AM   #56
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let me get a chance to dig all that stuff back out and I will get back to you... It has been 2 years since I worked on it.
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Old 11-10-2005, 11:24 AM   #57
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Tree DR, this is what my buddy emailed me as to what he was using to make his:

"I was using 18-8 stainless steel containers, with stainless steel electrodes (sometimes galvanized) and zinc electrolysis plates."

Hope that helps, 'cause it don't mean anything to me!


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Old 11-11-2005, 02:29 AM   #58
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Well, I had to try soooo, a yuban coffee can, s/s sheet metal for anode/catode ,water and baking soda, tapped into my fuel pump solenoid
So far I have rendered 21.2 mpg on a relatively heavy truck(tools and parts)
combined hwy/city driving.(two tanks)
"Gonna" weld me up a new s/s tank under the bed with even larger probe plates.More is better ..right? My coffee can is pulling 30Amps with circa
16sqinch plates, 1 gallon or so water and a cup of baking soda. Topped off
1/2 gallon at half tank since water literally boiled off. It gets real hot.
It is nice to approach the 700 mile mark before filling up.
AJ
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Old 11-11-2005, 10:31 AM   #59
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Success is GOOD

AJ2 Sounds great hope everyone else sees this and goes for it. The reason I haven't used metal containers is they conduct electricity and could cause a spark if they touch something and then might explode. My trucks kind of heavy at 8,000+ and I'm usually pulling a 5,000 trailer when empty. It's nice to get 18mpg+ with it running around town.

Thank TPilaske for the info sound very simular to what I'm doing. Why doesn't he use it on his own vehicle? Then again I haven't put one on my wifes van yet.
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Old 11-11-2005, 04:53 PM   #60
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add a nuc plant and windmill to your truck and presto...

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