Trooperthorn

Well, I stalled on the cummins crew swap. Can't find the time to get into the shop. When I do, I am stuck in a traffic jam. The frame is no longer on wheels. The ramcharger does not move. The new 4 door cab is on the floor with a cummins, auto, 205 package. There is other misc. carp that does not belong in a shop, like an old school, school desk. There is a dead tranny out of a 89 1/2 ton Dodge...whatever, too much stuff. So, the new plan is to do a quickie drop of the cummins auto package into the ramcharger and get it and engine out of the shop so I can move around. Then dive into the crewcab again. Before I can do the rc, I need to paint the crew frame and put the running gear under it so I can roll it outside. Anyway, check out the new blog. I've seen a few rc cummins swaps, but not too many with the removable top. Should be fun.

farmer0_1

and i am still spinning my c cab wheels. good job very encouraging to see you take on two at a time. going to find a nice saturday to stop by.

Alwaysworking

cool, i was woundering when the r/c would start, now when will it start?

Fred Swanson

I can only wish I had that kind of time to tackle 2 different ones at the same time

Trooperthorn

Ha ha ha. Time, what's that. Work, kids on two different track teams with different meets and practice at different places. Graduate school work. Making fuel. Sleep. Yeah, time would be nice. Nice thing is, work stops on June 16 and doesn't start again til the end of Aug.

Alwaysworking

just cut the sleep part out or change when you do it, do it in class.

Fred Swanson

Yeah, I know what you mean with 2 kids, activities, work, house projects, working on other people's trucks too. And then finding that elusive time to work on your own projects.

Alwaysworking

engine in yet? or do you still have to paint your cc frame

Trooperthorn

Lets see, in the past week I went in the shop a couple of times to grab my skimpy set of metric end wrenches so I could replace the alternator ($116 exchange) in the 300d. Seems like I spend half my life doing stupid stuff like going back to napa to get the pulley shaft key out of the alternator core. I was smart enough to pull the pully, but too stupid to grab the key.

Alwaysworking

next time try waltz they rebuild those things

Trooperthorn

I would have had it rebuilt, but I wanted to get it done today. Anyway, its only money.

Alwaysworking

next time say yor with triple A they get good discounts

Alwaysworking

maybe you should change your name to bitesoffmorethancanchew

farmer0_1

heck my project list has an "edge of the world" to it. when it gets to long the older projects "fall off" . if i am not 2 years behind i would feel like i'm not taking on enough.

Trooperthorn

Lifted the body the rest of the way off yesterday. That was fun with the engine crane, by myself. I lifted the body, but the crane was in the way to roll the frame out and I could not back the crane far enough (poor planning). So I put a floor jack under the rear end and slid the frame out the side.

The engine/tranny/t-case combo is pretty heavy (duh). The hoist did not want to roll. even when the engine was just two inches off the floor. The whole mess wanted to tip over when the engine got to swinging while I was moving it. So, I got the hoist in position with the weight as low as possible. Thien I raised it up and rolled the frame under it. It would have been easier to change the springs and axles without the power plant in place, but with the 5 inch lift and 35" tires, I would have had to lift the engine 6 or 7 inches higher. This was scary enough.

Except for the squashed springs, the package looks like it was meant to be in there. The factory springs, no doubta little tired, are about an inch and a half from the bump stops. This is without the body and front-end.
For those of you who know what I am talking about and hav been wondering about the hole verses the slot for the motormount on the driver's side of the engine cross-member. I first eased the mount stud into the factory hole on the left, the lowered the rigt mount stud into the factory slot. It went in like butter. I thought I would need to slot the other hole, but, I did not.
The 1977 tranny cross-member looks to be about an inch too close to the front, and the mount holes are too narrow. I will swap it with the one from the 1992 donor w250, as both frames are 6 inches deek under the cab area.

I included this pic to put the short wheelbase int perspective. Alwaysworking thinks I should just mount the rearend to the t-case . I haven't measured it yet, but I think the rear driveline will be shorter than the front.

Check my blogs for more details about the projects. I'm grinnin' bigtime.