Sure enough it was me that caused this !! I installed the new High Pressure fuel supply line from the pump to the fuel " log " rail !!! The leak is fixed so I am back on track to getting this baby to fire up !! I have to thank Cummins Mid South for getting me the part around 9:30 this morning via Fed-Ex !!

 

TDWYSE, have you ever had braking issues using the vacuum pump? I recently had 2 days in a row for the first time since I did my swap, that I needed to lock up the brakes and couldn’t. I have a large vacuum pump with an extra reservoir. I immediately converted to hydroboost, and my brakes are better than ever. Plus I don’t worry anymore about an electric pump going out on me.

 

I had a problem when the electrical connector came off so the pump wasn't running and drawing vacuum. But when I fixed that connection the issue went away. But it was an EYE OPENING experience when it happened as the amount of pressure on the brake pedal to slow down was greatly increased.

 

I saw this a couple months ago on 4bt swaps forum and it looks like a viable alterative to the SSBC vacuum pump !! I have wired mine up and turned the key on and it was very loud and you could feel the vibration in the drivers seat !!
This is off an Isuzu diesel truck ..... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-A...sel-w-Vac-Pump



Eco 45 is a vendor on 4bt swaps and he made this bracket to fit it on a b3.3 motor !! You may be able to contact him and get the dimensions or pay him to make you one !!



I hope this post is legal with the moderators, since it is for informational purposes and I am not trying to sell anything !!

 

Hey Guys,

I have an update! I got enough hooked up to start the motor, then the Rubicon Express 4" lift springs came in from UPS. The 2.5" lift had sagged to the point where the oil pan and diff had become kissin cousins! Finally got everything set and cranked it, but it would not start! I finally got aggrevated and sprayed a quick shot of " starting fluid" to see if anything would happen; and low and behold it started !! And maybe Macet can answer this but even though I let it run long enough to get up to operating temp, if I shut it off, it will not start without a small shot of starting fluid ! I can't figure out why !!

I have found out that the computer is set up for Vermeer (it was built to their specs) and they did not set up the computer to run on the automotive circuit ! BUT, That is just a quick trip to a shop with a Cummins computer to turn it " ON " !!

I have connected the wires to run the 2005 Dodge Ram A/C compressor with the stock underdash unit by merely tracing wires !
I have ordered the front and rear driveshafts from TOM WOODS and they should be in tomorrow, so I guess all I have left is to complete the air to water intercooler piping and radiator kit and connect the exhaust to my previous exhaust pipes !!

I wasn't sure there for a while if I was ever gonna get to this point, but it does seem nice to be almost done !! My laptop crashed this week so it will be two weeks before I can access my flickr account to post the video of it running and I lost my cell phone this week, so Macet can you call me so I can put your number back in my phone book, thanks !!

 

Glow plugs hooked up? Air completely out of the lines (you had it running good so I'm guessing so)?

Your engine is QSB? Is the starting disengage value set high enough or something? I had an electrically governed B3.3 at work that had a problem starting because the starter disengage value was set to a lower RPM, so the starter would shut off before cranking fast enough to start the engine. Might be worth looking in to.

 

Hey Guys,

I have an update! I got enough hooked up to start the motor, then the Rubicon Express 4" lift springs came in from UPS. The 2.5" lift had sagged to the point where the oil pan and diff had become kissin cousins! Finally got everything set and cranked it, but it would not start! I finally got aggrevated and sprayed a quick shot of " starting fluid" to see if anything would happen; and low and behold it started !! And maybe Macet can answer this but even though I let it run long enough to get up to operating temp, if I shut it off, it will not start without a small shot of starting fluid ! I can't figure out why !!

I have found out that the computer is set up for Vermeer (it was built to their specs) and they did not set up the computer to run on the automotive circuit ! BUT, That is just a quick trip to a shop with a Cummins computer to turn it " ON " !!

I have connected the wires to run the 2005 Dodge Ram A/C compressor with the stock underdash unit by merely tracing wires !
I have ordered the front and rear driveshafts from TOM WOODS and they should be in tomorrow, so I guess all I have left is to complete the air to water intercooler piping and radiator kit and connect the exhaust to my previous exhaust pipes !!

I wasn't sure there for a while if I was ever gonna get to this point, but it does seem nice to be almost done !! My laptop crashed this week so it will be two weeks before I can access my flickr account to post the video of it running and I lost my cell phone this week, so Macet can you call me so I can put your number back in my phone book, thanks !!



Hey HulkGreen
I was just wondering What is your cranking speed? I have never been around the cummins engines that much But i have been around the cat C4.4 and 6.6 common rail engines a lot I know for a fact that that engine has to have a lest 300rpm on the cranking speed or the engine will not inject the diesel so that would kind of make since If your engine is cranking to slow then you spray the ether and it takes off because it pick up the rpm It needed to see to turn on the fuel system If that is the case maybe your battery is a bit small or maybe you need to use bigger wiring for the starter. It is just a thought or some thing i have seen before thanks

 

Yeah that's a good point. I just looked it up, and the QSB4.5 needs 120 rpm minimum cranking speed for an unaided cold start. Minimum ambient for unaided cold start is 10.4 degrees F.

So, I would guess you're cranking the engine fast enough. 120 rpm is pretty easy to achieve, unless your battery is really that low...

I had this problem on my engine though (used engine) and put a new starter on it, and then I was able to get the minimum cranking speed as the old starter was having issues, and I knew I had enough battery power.

 

If the battery does not have enough Amps then you can have 12+ volts all day long and it still would not be enough To turn the engine over fast enough

 

Hey guys,

I just got my laptop back !!

The engine is spinning with plenty of rpm and the battery is a " red top " Optima gel battery and it starts my sons 4bt just fine !! I don't think that is the culprit !! But,, thank you for the ideas ; I will call Macet tomorrow and will keep ya'll posted as I get this finalized.

I have completed the Air to Water intercooler set up, but am 2 silicone 90's short but they are on order !! I also placed my order with Summit racing to complete the exhaust !! My Tom Woods driveshafts came in (with the double cardan ) and with the flipped Dana 300 I now have a 20 inch long rear driveshaft whereas stock was 13 inches !

Here is the video of the initial start up ** Please remember I just threw the intercooler on to start it, and the exhaust is not hooked up ! **

I can't get the video to play but you can go to my flickr acct and view it !!

http://www.flickr.com/photos/42246689@N06/5169660442/

 

Air to Water Intercooler is complete !!

All air piping and water plumbing connected, what do ya'll think !! I am not an engineer, but it ALL fits under the hood ( barely ) !! I had to keep the engine high enough not to hit the front differential without having to cut up the hood !! I think it came out as a great compromise !!



I borrowed the 1984 Mercedes 300 Turbo Diesel's Coolant overflow bottle for my Air to Water Intercooler's holding tank !!



The red and white object is the Intercooler's water pump ( which is just a live bait well pump ); but it works great !! It is under the IC's radiator and fan !!


Macet is talking to some of his co-workers to see if they can figure why it won't start without " starting fluid " !! We are kinda leaning toward the " Industrial " setting that Vermeer originally set the computer to needing a signal from an auxillary throttle that I was not going to need for my application, so I left it out !! And, when I get the automotive setting turned ON; it will probably fix the glitch !!
AND, of course, the clutch slave cylinder gave up the ghost just to complicate my week !! But I did get the interior gutted to install NEW carpeting and then reinstalled everything today !!

 

Is your lift pump supplying enough pressure to the injection pump? I've seen where a lift pump has gone bad and the injection pumps have enough "draw" on their own once they are running to feed themselves but not enough at cranking speed to start themselves.

 

Hi! This is my first post on this site but I've spent the last week or so reading this thread.

I'm happy to say I've finally found the motor swap for my 4Runner!

I'm unhappy to say that I won't be able to start gathering parts for about a year (big move coming up and some work related issues). Oh well!

I've been keeping my eyes open for B3.3T's and have been seeing them for around $5300 these days. If anyone happens to see a screaming deal I'd appreciate a heads up!!

TDI, Macet, Z28, 3.3, Hulk and anyone I've missed - GREAT work. Thanks so much for posting all your efforts, thoughts, specs and part numbers! This will make my swap SO much easier!

 

I don't believe this is my problem; but I will definately look into it !! Thanks !

 

You are welcome CamTom12 !!

I have to admit this thread and the trial and error that happened before I started my project was an unbelievable help with making my project go so smoothly and quickly !!

My sincere thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, especially TDIwise for starting it !!