that's what I'm talking about. You have got to post some photos, a writeup, and some videos of it running.

 

Uploaded the videos that show the sound of the B3.3T and my VW TDI at idle.

The Jeep B3.3T is here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYeMNGBqn_g

The VW TDI (with the top insulation cover removed) is shown here
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dl3sIlOaMTY

 

Another blizzard moved through last night and today so we were snowed in. Took the time to adjust the valves. The manual suggested doing this at 250 hrs/3 mos and then every 2000 hrs/2 yrs. The engine hr meter I put on is showing about ~ 450 hrs and I've got about 1 yr 8 mos, so I'm over the recommended time and age on adjustment.

I've updated the photo site with pictures of the valve train.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N06/

All the intake valves were about right (0.014 in) so I left them. All the exhaust valves were a bit too tight to meet the spec (0.020 in) so I adjusted all those. Used a new gasket to reseal the valve cover. Will check for leaks over the next few days. I've never adjusted valves before so I was very careful and followed the manual to a "T". Took me about 2 hrs. I think next time I could do it in less than 30 minutes as it's pretty straight forward.

 

I am curious as to what kind of boost #s and exhaust temp you see at highway speeds. In my sonoma at 70mph i get 5-6 pounds of boost and about 550 on the exhaust temp. The engine does not even register any boost at 55mph like there is no load on the engine but seems to build boost quickly above that speed. I did fill up for the first time and got 31mpg with mostly tollway and in traffic driving. Hoping to get better once it warms up but am still fighting some vibration issues.

 

At 60 I've got about 25 hp of wind drag (and maybe 10hp of drivetrain/tire loss) to overcome whereas you would have about 16 hp of wind drag which isn't much load on the engine.

At 70 your at about 25 hp of wind drag which is about where I'm at at 60mph. So comparing my 60mph to your 70mph would be about equivalent hp loads on the engine. At 60 with no headwind I'm usually at ~3-4 lbs of boost and ~550-600 deg EGT's in this cold weather. Actually my one youtube video shows me traveling at between 55 and 60 and I think I mention these #'s.

With your better aerodynamics you should be able to break 40mpg this summer if you keep your speeds down a bit.

 

I can tell I should get better mileage going slower but I drive in a lot of chicago traffic which for me makes going slow a challenge. I am debating either buying larger rear tires( I need to replace them anyway) I currently have 235/55/16 and thought about a 235/60/16 or 225/60/16. Running the grimmjeeper gear calculator with my current tires and 3.08 gears I am turning 70mph~2050rpm
75mph~2150rpm. I would like to lower that 150 to 200 rpm. Other option is to change to a 2.73 rear gear.
There is definately a different sound to the engine with the timing advanced that far. To me it sounds a little strange until it comes under boost. I talked to my neighbor ( a diesel tech and cummins truck puller who actually had the right socket to remove the pump locking key) tought I could go farther yet after listening to it but for now I am calling it good until I put some more miles on it.
I tried the fuel screw in a full turn but had alot of black smoke on accel and knew I was just wasting fuel. So settled on half a tun in for now.

 

Handy neighbor to have!

Is the vibration rpm dependent? Since it's been so cold around here (-10 F air temp this morning) my rubber mounts are hard enough that I have vibes at idle, but above ~1000 rpm's it smooths out. At temps above ~20F the rubber mounts are soft enough that even at idle the vibes are controlled pretty well.

Did you get your rubber mounts or are you still using the stiff mounts? What style are they?

 

I have rubber mounts installed now. They are old style small block chevy mounts. I used them because they bolted in the truck and are low profile. The vibrations are pretty bad at idle but are almost non existent at 70-75mph. At idle I think the engine is vibrating enough to rub something. I need to get the truck back up on jack stands to look around. I had abolt rubbing near the engine mount and thought that was it. It helped but still not as smooth as I want it. I am so tight on space near the oil pan area that I may need to clearance a few more things to make enough room with the softer mounts.

 

I'm also curious about the black smoke with the fuel screw turned up. Is this a new or used engine? I ended up turning the fuel screw up to the point where the rpm's started floating and had to back it down, but I never had black smoke issues. Even with the bigger holes in the modified injectors I'm running there isn't black smoke at full throttle and my EGT's don't get above ~1100 F. What were your EGT's and boost like when you were seeing black smoke? Is your EGT probe on the front 2 or back 2 cylinders (mine's in the hole on the front two cylinders)? I'm a little confused on why there's different behavior of our engines.

 

Ahhh, do you have an intercooler on yours? I wasn't thinking about that difference . . .

 

The engine was brand new never used. Black smoke was only on acceleration and would clean up after a few seconds. I am looking for mileage so did not think that would be a good setting. With the fuel screw up a full turn my rpm would start hanging also. If I start at about 40mph in 5th gear and go to full throttle I will see a light haze from the tail pipe for a few seconds and will not break 1000 deg exhaust temp. Usually see 13-14lbs of boost. I have no wast gate it was damaged when the engine was shipped to me so it is currently held shut with a large spring. I will have to take a look at the exhaust manifold dont remember which port I used for the egt

 

OK, I was thinking you were describing lots of black smoke instead of a haze. I also see a puff of smoke when I shift if I stomp the accelerator as it takes an instant for the turbo to spool up. My VW does that as well.

 

I do not have an intercooler on my engine. Once I got it running and saw the actual boost levels and exhaust temp, which leads me to believe I am not putting much load on the engine, I did not see the need for one.

 

TDI,

I never did see, are you making your own Biodiesel, or buying it? Have you done any analysis of how soon you conversion will pay for itself?
Thanks
Theron

 

3.3,

If you are looking for maximum mileage you'll want to stay below 1600rpm (peak torque/min BSFC@full load) at cruise or even lower.

I haven't seen a BSFC plot for the 3.3 but judging qualitativly from other plots I've seen; in order to stay on the minimum BSFC "island" at partial load you need to run the engine at somewhat less than the peak torque point (1600 rpm in this instance).

If you look at the graph below it is BMEP(Torque/Displacement)vs RPM with the "Islands" representing BSFC. The red dashed lines are constant horsepower lines (since HP = (TxRPM)/5252, as RPM goes up Torque must come down). So lets say the upper red line is 100 hp and the lower one is 35 hp. If you put out 35hp at 2100 rpm your BSFC is about 240, but if you put out 35hp at 1500 rpm it's only 210

2.73 gears would be a good start, maybe even 2.41 if you can get them.

The only problem with such a tall ratio is that the clutch (and trasmission for that matter) is going to see more torque load and you might lose some low end acceleration, although with the amount of low end torque the 3.3 has the acceleration may not be an issue.