I found another rpm point where BSFC is given. Uploaded the picture from that brochure on the flickr site. At 1400 rpm it's .345 lb/hp-hr which is lower than the 1600 rpm point.

I also uploaded a picture of the EPA tag on the engine block which shows the factory timing of 5 degrees BTDC. This seems extremely retarded from what I've read about other engines. Seems ~14-15 degrees BTDC was what the VE equipped 5.9 and 3.9 B series engines used to be set at from the factory. Any thoughts on this?

As a reference on page 14 of this study http://www.epa.gov/ttn/chief/old/ap4..._ch02_1996.pdf shows a nice curve of what happens to NOx and BSFC as timing is retarded from about 14 to 8 deg BTDC on a Cat off highway engine. Retarding does reduce NOx but causes a large BSFC hit.

 

Forgot to talk about the cold start yesterday: I ran an errand 4 hrs after parking the jeep in the morning so I don't think the engine had completely cooled to ambient (which was still -10 F air temp) as it turned over with only a puff of white smoke. Wasn't the extreme test I thought it might be . . .

 

TDIWYSE,

sorry I didn't reply earlier to your inquire about how the electric pump is installed. Basically you can bypass your mechanical pump or remove the impellar from the mechanical pump. The electric pump is installed in your radiator return hose. You can hardwire the pump to turn on when you turn the ignition on or use an eletronic controller with preset temps. Here's a link:
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47 Why would I install a system? Because I can! I am hoping to provide more cooling efficiency, MPG, and horsepower. I like to do things different.

Chris
AKA: BigBlue

 

Morse, do you still have that B3.3 sitting around?

 

I think I've advanced the timing by 3 degrees (putting me at 8 degrees BTDC) based upon the following logic:

If I know the distance (X) from the center shaft of the IP to the outer bolt and also know the verticle rotation
distance (Y) then I can use trigonometry to back calculate the angle rotated.

. |\
Y| \
. ---- Tan(angle)=Y/X
..... X

Or, angle = inverse Tan(Y/X)

Multiplying this by 2 (the engine rotates twice for every pump rotation) gives, I think, the degrees of timing
advance. For my pump X is right at 2 inches, and I rotated the pump (according to my micrometer) just over 1/20 of an inch.
This works out to 3 degrees of timing advance. If my assumptions are correct.

Also did some fuel economy number crunching. Below is the historical monthly average mpg's since the jeep's by
in service.

....Jan...Feb..Mar...Apr..May..Jun..Jul..Aug..Sep. .Oct..Nov..Dec
06 xx.x xx.x xx.x xx.x xx.x xx.x.... 30.1 29.9 28.6 27.8 27.3 26.7
07 26.7 26.3 29.0 29.7 31.4 30.3 34.1 31.7 31.2 31.5 29.0 27.9
08 28.7

I've now had two fillups since advancing the timing. They've averaged 31.9 mpg. So the increase from 28.7 average in Jan 08 to 31.9 in Jan 08 with the timing bump indicates about 10% increase.

This lines up fairly closely to the emission study a few posts up if you look on page 14 at the BSFC/NOx/HC/CO/PM tradeoff. When they Advance the timing BTDC from 8 to 11 degrees (a change of 3 degrees) the BSFC improves ~10 %.

 

31.9 where? You said Jan 08 twice also, so that's a bit confusing there. Keep in mind we're on winter fuel, idle times increase, etc... just imagine the summer economy

 

Your X measurement would actually be the hypotenuse of the triangle so inverse SIN is what you would want to use, but at these small angles SIN and TAN yield nearly the same result.

 

There are two Jan 08 data points: Pre and post timing bump. Pre timing bump the average for the month was 28.7. The two fillups post timing bump in Jan 08 averaged 31.9 (this was not in the table but mentioned in the paragraph below the table). Hope that makes it clear.

I'm hoping the trend continues into the summer as well

 

Since it's not exactly a right triangle it's a bit of swag to begin with but I see your point. So does the thought process seem sound? It seems to be in the ballpark of the 1mm=2degs from the reference a few posts back.



--------------------------
On edit: http://www.flashoffroad.com/Diesel/i...ectionpump.htm contains the ref to the 1mm~2deg.

 

Well, I got 2.86* when I did the math, so I'd say you're close. How come you didn't shoot for around ten? Too much advance?

 

I'm a bit conservative and since I can't find any information about others who have fooled around with this particular engine I'm going slow . . .

 

Yeah after I posted that I realized that getting 'Y' measured perpendicular to the hypotenuse would be pretty difficult. Again with the small angles it's pretty neglegible, like 4th decimel place. The factor of 2 was a good catch I didn't even think about that until I read it.

 

this is awesome. I have been following this project for some time, my wife just rolls her eyes when I talk about it. One of us that appreciates it REALLY needs to follow suit and install a 3.3T in another vehicle.

I love the video clip on YouTube. How about some other ones viewing the engine bay, or a short one while driving.

Thanks for being so dilligent keeping us informed.

 

Well I can't promise a 3.3, but I can promise a 4cyl cummins in the next year or two. I've been searching high and low for an acceptable Toyota Pick-up donor chassis, but I've yet to find one in the kinda condition I'd like.

 

How about this? I tried to focus the camera so you could see EGT/boost/rpm.

Cruising along on a county road on a snowy Iowa day.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_rnr8oIc98

Shifting 2nd through 5th.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STGzzYCNibg

I was gonna do some more but I stopped to check how the videos were looking and like an idiot I used the parking brake which I haven't done in months and one of the rear drum brakes wouldn't release. I just got done ripping it apart and fixing that.