Yes your '93 motor could easily have a fuel heater above the filter with an old O-ring that is leaking.

 

Fuel heater is a black disc about 3/4" thick above fuel filter. It is held to the head by the stud that holds the filter on. The stud is double ended, and can loosen when filter is changed. O-ring can dry and leak also.

 

I wonder why your 93 motor has a 89-91/94-02 fan hub? So you will not be able to use the 93 fan shroud.

Truck is coming alone nicely....Well done!

 

hey foster would you be willing to sell one of your fuel sending unit ? And also do you have a pcm for a 91?

 

what kind of motor mounts did you use?

 

 

You can find the pre-91.5 Non-IC AC lines I believe, but not the later IC AC lines. But the Non-IC motors used the C-171 AC compressor (Diesel units are no longer available) compared with the Sanden unit used from 91.5 on up and readily available, I would want to run the Sanden AC compressor myself.

As for the lines you will either have to gamble on your used lines, or bring down the used lines to an AC shop and have them make you up some new custom lines.

 

 

You do have a '89-'91.0 or the '94 and up fan hub style.
You will find it sits too close to the '91.5-'93 radiator.
It will also be offset to the drivers side when it sits in the shroud of the '91.5-'93 shroud.

I bet you are going to find you want the hard to locate '91.5-'93 fan hub and pulley wheel. That is what I am installing on my '95 P-pumped motor I am installing on my '78 Ramcharger build as I want to use the '91.5-'93 radiator and fan shroud on my '78 core support.

 

 

Ok. Finally have some time to get some work on the truck. Sorting out the 94 fan pulley etc was a headache. Anyway. I have used the 1983 wiring harness and gauges. I spliced in the connections for the alternator and am planning to do the same in the ac system. I do have a question.

If if I hook up the temperature sensor gauge on the Cummins to my 1983 wiring will it work? It seems to he coolant temp sensor has problem off the connection port so I will need to get a new one.

Is is there any difference in the intercooled and non intercooled sensors other than the way the wire connects. Intercooled run about $95 and the non intercooled run $35

paul

 

Pressures at idle 100* day

Ok back to working on the truck. I have got the rad and intercooler installed and am working on the ac system as it is HOT here in texas and I want to have ac I think his truck. I replaced the expansion valve, condenser, evaporator coil and drier and thanks to Oliver got a great set of original ac lines. I replaced the compressor and am using R134. It is a marriage of the 1993 Cummins system and the 1983 prospector system. I am using the ac cycling switch off of the 1983 in the 1993 office tube.

I vacummed down the system to -30 and left it there for a week... no leaks. I added 5oz of pag oil (3 oz was in compressor) and then added 3 12oz cans of r134. The compressor kicks right on but I am unable to get the vent temp below 65*F at idle. The truck has no tint and it is currently 100* here in texas with incredible humidity. This may be the best it is going to get but wanted to see if anyone had any thoughts to get the temp lower. The ac compressor hasn’t been cycling off yet so it isn’t like it cuts off too early. I attached some pics and some pressures.

 

I remember a technician I used to work with telling me R134a is less efficient that R12. And therefore systems designed for R12 will not cool as effectively with the other refrigerant. You also have double the cab space to cool.

You may need a bigger or higher density condensor.

 

Thanks u2slow. I got the AC temp to stay at 60 at idle in 100degrees outside temp. I think it will improve when driving around. That leads to my next conundrum.

The u joints on the gas are smaller than on the diesel, but the driveshafts on the gas are thicker than on the diesel. Anyway. To lengthen the diesel driveshaft to accommodate the long bed is gonna be pricey bc the yoke is damaged per the driveline shop. Thoughts on changing the output on the getrag to accommodate the gas driveshaft and shortening it to fit?

Open to ideas

 

The ujoint size matters more. Especially the extra shock loading with a manual. Find some other diesel shafting with 1410 joints to be cut and modified. Or just pay to shop to make what you have work.