On my crew cab swaps, which where both short beds, I used club cabb long bed diesel driveshafts with the bigger U joint.

I agree with u2slow, go with the the larger U-joints even if you have to make up a driveshaft. Just make sure it is a two piece one to deal with the length.

 

I spent a small fortune on the rear shaft and the shaft between the transmission and transfer case in my '74 conversion. I did save a few dollars by finding good junk yard shafts to use for the tube and tail ends, I think they came out of medium duty trucks. The slip yoke parts are what will be hard on the wallet, but to find good pieces used is hard.

I hate driveline vibrations and noise so I pennied up for the new joints. 1410 all the way on the rear out put. The last thing you want to be doing is cussing at a blown universal on the side of the highway while your beer is getting warm.

 

FWIW, some donor shaft tips:
- there's a beefy slip-joint and three 1410 ends in every D250 cummins truck.
- 2ndgens (diesels) increased the tube size and still used 1410 ends. (might match tube size with the gasser shaft you have)

 

Anybody have recommendations for a set of replacement body/ cab bushings. It is a 1983 crew cab dually truck. I have 2 that are collapsed and figure better to replace now before putting it all back together. A part number would be helpful thanks.
paul

 

So as I get closer to being finished with the conversion it became apparent the VE pump seals were shot. A steady stream of diesel was running down from between the timing case and the VE pump creating a 6inch puddle wishing 30seconds of running. all that being said it was time to remove and get the pump resealed.

one concern I had was that the pin would go in the TDC hole only when the jetway was at 6oclock. I thought I had read that TDC occurs with the jetway at 12oclock.... any comments on this? Was I misinformed and it occurs at 6oclock? Is my timing gear 180 off? Truck runs perfect currently.

Any input on rebuilding current VE vs a preordered high performance VE? I locked timing on the one I removed.

what kind of performance should I be looking to get? This truck will he used to haul cattle it is a 2wd. Just looking for reliability and maybe a little extra seat of the pants power. Not trying to win any tractor pulls or drag strip races.

thanks in advance.

paul

 

Took the crew cab out for her maiden voyage yesterday. The speedometer system is mechanical and from the 1983 dash. I connected the speedo to the 1993 getrag360 but it does not appear to work. It appears to work in reverse. Do I need a speedo reversing attachment? Anybody seen this on their swap?

ill post some pics shortly
paul

 

Good news on the maiden voyage!!! I think the '89 model years may have still been mechanical speedo so you might be able to source a cable drive from an earlier year.

 

Anybody know the part number for the speedo adapter that reverses your mechanical speedo? I think it was only on 89-90?

 

My '90 trucks do not use a mechanical drive cluster... 2 electrical plugs - that's it.

 

Well it has been about 2 years since it was buttoned up and still lots to finish. I am currently daily driving the swap since my tundra took a crap.

I am trying to finish up some small things and would like the speedo to work.

I have a 1983 gauge cluster that is cable driven and a 5spd getrag. I believe this set up was in the 89 model??? I am just trying to see what I need to attach cable to trans correctly. All help appreciated.

 

Glad to hear you got it up and running.

Take the speedo sensor [VSS] off and leave just a male threaded end sticking out the speedo hole on that NP-205. The square drive, speedo cable should just screw on that threaded end.
The other end of that cable screws into the '89 only [usually] speedo cluster.

 

Ok I’ll give it a go. Thanks for the help

 

I

Is this the way it is connected? Just direct like seen?
s

 

 

Not exactly. In the 2nd picture, in the back ground is where the cable should be screwed onto. You can see that the speedo gear is held into that 2wd transmission by a bolt and a wishbone shaped piece. The cable should have a male square drive that will slide into the that hole in the center on the speedo gear on the transmission.
I hope that all makes sense.