Bouncy dually fix - or how to center your dually wheels
08-02-2009, 09:30 AM
#1
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Bouncy dually fix - or how to center your dually wheels
Dually owners, does your truck vibrate or bounce while driving at highway speed and no tire shop seems to be able to balance your tires right? Well, the trouble is likely just plain silly Chrysler engineering. 
The wheels have to be manually centered on the hubs every time they are installed because they are neither hub-centric nor lug-centric. On a single wheel truck, the tapered lug nuts center the wheels. Our flanged nuts don't do a good job at that. And it's pretty obvious that the wheels don't fit the hubs tight enough to center that way.
So how do you get them centered?
OK, so here we go for you visual learners:
These are the lug nuts you need. As you can see these have been used a few times...
The next step is to find the right holes on the wheels. Every other hole is concave (or convex, depending on how you look at it).
You want to install the coned nuts over two opposing concave holes, like so:
Tighten the two tapered nuts to center the wheel. Then put 6 of the flanged nuts on the other studs and crank 'em down tight:
Last step is to remove the tapered nuts and install the leftover flanged nuts:
The procedure is the same on the rear wheels, just make sure that you align the slots on the wheels with the pin on the hub.
Get those lug nights TIGHT! Torque spec is 300-325 ft. lbs, so if you have a standard 1/2" impact wrench you are leaving them too loose. These trucks came with a 3 foot bar to remove and replace the lug nuts, don't be shy about cranking them down hard.
Your tire shop will learn to hate you now.
The wheels have to be manually centered on the hubs every time they are installed because they are neither hub-centric nor lug-centric. On a single wheel truck, the tapered lug nuts center the wheels. Our flanged nuts don't do a good job at that. And it's pretty obvious that the wheels don't fit the hubs tight enough to center that way.
So how do you get them centered?
Originally Posted by Your owner's manual
To assist in centering dual wheels when tightening lug nuts, obtain two 5/8" -18 coned lug nuts. Temporarily install the coned lug nuts opposite one another. Tighten sufficiently to hold wheel in place. Install the flanged lug nuts and tighten. Remove the coned nuts and replace with the remaining flanged nuts and tighten all nuts...
These are the lug nuts you need. As you can see these have been used a few times...
The next step is to find the right holes on the wheels. Every other hole is concave (or convex, depending on how you look at it).
You want to install the coned nuts over two opposing concave holes, like so:
Tighten the two tapered nuts to center the wheel. Then put 6 of the flanged nuts on the other studs and crank 'em down tight:
Last step is to remove the tapered nuts and install the leftover flanged nuts:
The procedure is the same on the rear wheels, just make sure that you align the slots on the wheels with the pin on the hub.
Get those lug nights TIGHT! Torque spec is 300-325 ft. lbs, so if you have a standard 1/2" impact wrench you are leaving them too loose. These trucks came with a 3 foot bar to remove and replace the lug nuts, don't be shy about cranking them down hard.
Your tire shop will learn to hate you now.
08-02-2009, 12:04 PM
#3
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Thread Starter
08-02-2009, 12:27 PM
#6
Registered User
Thank you Mr wannadiesel for a much-needed pictorial on how to properly install the wheels.
For many years, both Ford and Dodge used this exact same LUG-CENTRIC coined-wheel arrangment on DRW trucks, way back when they had "two-piece" split-rings plumb up until the tubeless solid-wheel changeover in the late 70s.
Regardless of whether Ford or Dodge, the wheels were the same; and, all eight nuts were plain old CONICAL, front and rear.
In the mid-80s, Ford changed over to hub-centric wheels and flanged-washer nuts, such that the big flanged washer contacted the wheel, yet the nut was still able to rotate, thus permitting a more reliable torque value.
For whatever reason, Dodge kept the old lug-centric coined wheels and switched to the solid washer-less flanged nuts that are in-compatible with the coined lug-centric wheels. (maybe on account of so many being available for cheap after Ford quit using them)
One would be far better off to throw those flanged nuts in the lake and replace ALL of them with the old style conical nuts that these wheels were designed for.
Since the beginning of time, GM DRWs have always utilized a seperate "PLATE" that goes on last, over the hub-centric wheels, with conical nuts going into the recesses on the plate; their reasoning being that the addition of the plate reinforces the wheels in the weakest area around the lug-circle; it makes good sense, but I would change that conical seated plate to a flat plate and use Ford-style flanged-washer nuts.
For many years, both Ford and Dodge used this exact same LUG-CENTRIC coined-wheel arrangment on DRW trucks, way back when they had "two-piece" split-rings plumb up until the tubeless solid-wheel changeover in the late 70s.
Regardless of whether Ford or Dodge, the wheels were the same; and, all eight nuts were plain old CONICAL, front and rear.
In the mid-80s, Ford changed over to hub-centric wheels and flanged-washer nuts, such that the big flanged washer contacted the wheel, yet the nut was still able to rotate, thus permitting a more reliable torque value.
For whatever reason, Dodge kept the old lug-centric coined wheels and switched to the solid washer-less flanged nuts that are in-compatible with the coined lug-centric wheels. (maybe on account of so many being available for cheap after Ford quit using them)
One would be far better off to throw those flanged nuts in the lake and replace ALL of them with the old style conical nuts that these wheels were designed for.
Since the beginning of time, GM DRWs have always utilized a seperate "PLATE" that goes on last, over the hub-centric wheels, with conical nuts going into the recesses on the plate; their reasoning being that the addition of the plate reinforces the wheels in the weakest area around the lug-circle; it makes good sense, but I would change that conical seated plate to a flat plate and use Ford-style flanged-washer nuts.
08-02-2009, 12:43 PM
#7
Registered User
Your saying there are 2 different types of nuts to use on these trucks ?
And 2 different types of holes in the rims ?
Are all dullies like this ?
dont have one, wouldnt want one, but this is good to know.
And 2 different types of holes in the rims ?
Are all dullies like this ?
dont have one, wouldnt want one, but this is good to know.
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08-02-2009, 12:52 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
The holes are concave and convex so that they nest when the wheels are placed against each other.
The washer-nuts that Bearkiller mentioned are used on the front, but they really do a lousy job of centering the wheels. The flanged nuts are used out back and do even worse, but they are a bigger stronger design than the washer-nuts.
The front nuts are 1 1/16", the rear nuts are 1 1/8". The lug wrench included with the truck was double-ended to accommodate the different sizes.
The washer-nuts that Bearkiller mentioned are used on the front, but they really do a lousy job of centering the wheels. The flanged nuts are used out back and do even worse, but they are a bigger stronger design than the washer-nuts.
The front nuts are 1 1/16", the rear nuts are 1 1/8". The lug wrench included with the truck was double-ended to accommodate the different sizes.
08-02-2009, 01:39 PM
#10
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Hmmm... all my lugs were exactly the same. I bought this truck from a First Gen enthusiast farmer out of Missouri. He most likely robbed all sorts of stuff from it while he was fixing it to sell.... like obviously removed trim, interior lights, tailgate swap, and maybe even lug nuts.
Where can I get some conical lugs? My front tires were wearing funny and it was hopping. Local place tried telling me it was all because the steering shaft (borgeson going in), but when I rotated and was careful, the bounce is gone. Maybe they lined up better this time?
Where can I get some conical lugs? My front tires were wearing funny and it was hopping. Local place tried telling me it was all because the steering shaft (borgeson going in), but when I rotated and was careful, the bounce is gone. Maybe they lined up better this time?
08-02-2009, 02:19 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Perhaps the W350's used the same nuts all around? Anybody else with a D350 have different nuts front and rear? Perhaps I'm nuts.
You can get the centering nuts from any decent auto parts store. Dorman #611-055 is the magic number.
You can get the centering nuts from any decent auto parts store. Dorman #611-055 is the magic number.
08-02-2009, 02:44 PM
#13
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Thread Starter
Did some more research and it seems my front lug nuts are not original stock nuts. They are Securex MF39946 units. They have been on the truck since I got it. I have not found an online source for them.
In the attached pic you can just barely make out "SECUREX" forged into the washer.
In the attached pic you can just barely make out "SECUREX" forged into the washer.
