Bouncy dually fix - or how to center your dually wheels
07-28-2018, 04:25 AM
#76
New 93 Dodge Ram D350 DRW/Dually owner. Dealing with similar issues, minimally, if I have a flat, I would love to be able to change my own tire.
Mine came with the Dodge provided lug wrench. Either due to air-impact wrenches, thread rust from the vehicle's previous rural life, etc, so far non-successful using the OEM wrench. So far I have been non-successful at breaking any of the lug nuts loose.
Went to look for lug wrenches at Ken Tool based on your post. Catalog is now here:
https://www.kentool.com/index.php/catalog
Referencing page 31 from the downloadable PDF catalog, dated 2017-01-30/current, unless I'm overlooking something obvious (very possible), all I'm really seeing is the Item # 34420 extra leverage lug nut wrench. standard size 25.5" (shorter than the Dodge OEM ) or the optional 44" Extended wrench.
Seems like that 44" wrench might be the ticket, with a claim of "provides up to 700 ft-lbs of torque".
is this what you got? Something else?
Thanks for any comments.
08-06-2018, 10:49 AM
#77
Hello,
New 93 Dodge Ram D350 DRW/Dually owner. Dealing with similar issues, minimally, if I have a flat, I would love to be able to change my own tire.
Mine came with the Dodge provided lug wrench. Either due to air-impact wrenches, thread rust from the vehicle's previous rural life, etc, so far non-successful using the OEM wrench. So far I have been non-successful at breaking any of the lug nuts loose.
Went to look for lug wrenches at Ken Tool based on your post. Catalog is now here:
https://www.kentool.com/index.php/catalog
Referencing page 31 from the downloadable PDF catalog, dated 2017-01-30/current, unless I'm overlooking something obvious (very possible), all I'm really seeing is the Item # 34420 extra leverage lug nut wrench. standard size 25.5" (shorter than the Dodge OEM ) or the optional 44" Extended wrench.
Seems like that 44" wrench might be the ticket, with a claim of "provides up to 700 ft-lbs of torque".
is this what you got? Something else?
Thanks for any comments.
New 93 Dodge Ram D350 DRW/Dually owner. Dealing with similar issues, minimally, if I have a flat, I would love to be able to change my own tire.
Mine came with the Dodge provided lug wrench. Either due to air-impact wrenches, thread rust from the vehicle's previous rural life, etc, so far non-successful using the OEM wrench. So far I have been non-successful at breaking any of the lug nuts loose.
Went to look for lug wrenches at Ken Tool based on your post. Catalog is now here:
https://www.kentool.com/index.php/catalog
Referencing page 31 from the downloadable PDF catalog, dated 2017-01-30/current, unless I'm overlooking something obvious (very possible), all I'm really seeing is the Item # 34420 extra leverage lug nut wrench. standard size 25.5" (shorter than the Dodge OEM ) or the optional 44" Extended wrench.
Seems like that 44" wrench might be the ticket, with a claim of "provides up to 700 ft-lbs of torque".
is this what you got? Something else?
Thanks for any comments.
Anyone?
Its anyone's guess, but I would speculate that I can't be the only overweight keyboard jockey with a love for 1st Gen Cummins powered dually's, that needs a little extra help w/300-350 ft/lbs torque'd lug nuts that wants to be able to change his own flat tires.
08-06-2018, 10:53 AM
#78
Registered User
I just use a breaker bar.
Try soaking them in weasel pee for a while if need be.
Or if they are super stubborn, you can heat up the nuts with a torch and they will spin right off.
Try soaking them in weasel pee for a while if need be.
Or if they are super stubborn, you can heat up the nuts with a torch and they will spin right off.
08-06-2018, 11:15 AM
#79
Registered User
I have a big socket thing that a fellow gave me. It has a 6 point socket on each end and 2 holes in the bar between them. I got a 4' piece of cold rolled bar stock to use in the holes which gives me plenty of leverage. I also got a battery operated impact wrench and socket which I take in the truck when I go on trips which makes things easier if I don't want to wait on AAA. Around home if I have a flat I call them and let them sweat. 
08-06-2018, 11:17 PM
#80
Thank you for the reply.
Don't think for a second I haven't tried more than one breaker bar on those lug nuts, including the OEM one that Dodge provided.
Done that too.
You're probably right, and thats what things may come down to.
As embarrassing as this is right now, I'm stumbling around with this in my own driveway && garage, where all my tools and resources are.
My real concern isn't for here at home, when I'm just playing around, my real concern is when I'm a couple of states away from home, and the only tools I have are the ones I have packed. These are just lug nuts, backed up by higher than (my personal) average torque, not rocket surgery.
Its been literally, at least a couple of decades since I had my last flat, but it doesn't mean I shouldn't be prepared. I need both to be able to remove the lug nuts when I'm out in BFE, and then, swap in that spare, and finally, be able to put the lugs back on, and either torque them to the prescribed 300-350 ft/lbs of torque, or pretty close till I can drive somewhere to do it right.
93 was the last year for the 1st gen's, along with these wheels for dually vehicles. Very possibly, my yahoo-fu is just off, and I'm overlooking a dozen obvious answers from the forum archives. Given the MY 93 is now 25 years old, I'm strongly guessing that there is no need to "re-invent any wheels" regarding this subject on my part.
Don't think for a second I haven't tried more than one breaker bar on those lug nuts, including the OEM one that Dodge provided.
Done that too.
As embarrassing as this is right now, I'm stumbling around with this in my own driveway && garage, where all my tools and resources are.
My real concern isn't for here at home, when I'm just playing around, my real concern is when I'm a couple of states away from home, and the only tools I have are the ones I have packed. These are just lug nuts, backed up by higher than (my personal) average torque, not rocket surgery.
Its been literally, at least a couple of decades since I had my last flat, but it doesn't mean I shouldn't be prepared. I need both to be able to remove the lug nuts when I'm out in BFE, and then, swap in that spare, and finally, be able to put the lugs back on, and either torque them to the prescribed 300-350 ft/lbs of torque, or pretty close till I can drive somewhere to do it right.
93 was the last year for the 1st gen's, along with these wheels for dually vehicles. Very possibly, my yahoo-fu is just off, and I'm overlooking a dozen obvious answers from the forum archives. Given the MY 93 is now 25 years old, I'm strongly guessing that there is no need to "re-invent any wheels" regarding this subject on my part.
08-07-2018, 03:37 PM
#81
Registered User
Thank you for the reply.
Don't think for a second I haven't tried more than one breaker bar on those lug nuts, including the OEM one that Dodge provided.
Done that too.
You're probably right, and thats what things may come down to.
As embarrassing as this is right now, I'm stumbling around with this in my own driveway && garage, where all my tools and resources are.
My real concern isn't for here at home, when I'm just playing around, my real concern is when I'm a couple of states away from home, and the only tools I have are the ones I have packed. These are just lug nuts, backed up by higher than (my personal) average torque, not rocket surgery.
Its been literally, at least a couple of decades since I had my last flat, but it doesn't mean I shouldn't be prepared. I need both to be able to remove the lug nuts when I'm out in BFE, and then, swap in that spare, and finally, be able to put the lugs back on, and either torque them to the prescribed 300-350 ft/lbs of torque, or pretty close till I can drive somewhere to do it right.
93 was the last year for the 1st gen's, along with these wheels for dually vehicles. Very possibly, my yahoo-fu is just off, and I'm overlooking a dozen obvious answers from the forum archives. Given the MY 93 is now 25 years old, I'm strongly guessing that there is no need to "re-invent any wheels" regarding this subject on my part.
Don't think for a second I haven't tried more than one breaker bar on those lug nuts, including the OEM one that Dodge provided.
Done that too.
You're probably right, and thats what things may come down to.
As embarrassing as this is right now, I'm stumbling around with this in my own driveway && garage, where all my tools and resources are.
My real concern isn't for here at home, when I'm just playing around, my real concern is when I'm a couple of states away from home, and the only tools I have are the ones I have packed. These are just lug nuts, backed up by higher than (my personal) average torque, not rocket surgery.
Its been literally, at least a couple of decades since I had my last flat, but it doesn't mean I shouldn't be prepared. I need both to be able to remove the lug nuts when I'm out in BFE, and then, swap in that spare, and finally, be able to put the lugs back on, and either torque them to the prescribed 300-350 ft/lbs of torque, or pretty close till I can drive somewhere to do it right.
93 was the last year for the 1st gen's, along with these wheels for dually vehicles. Very possibly, my yahoo-fu is just off, and I'm overlooking a dozen obvious answers from the forum archives. Given the MY 93 is now 25 years old, I'm strongly guessing that there is no need to "re-invent any wheels" regarding this subject on my part.
If I were you, I'd get those lugs off somehow and then go get some anti-sieze thread compound. Either replace the lugs or clean the threads and replace the nuts. Then use the anti-sieze and torque the nuts to the required torque. Get the proper tools and ensure you can change the tires yourself or get AAA.
Happy motoring!
Edwin
09-15-2018, 01:40 PM
#82
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Dually owners, does your truck vibrate or bounce while driving at highway speed and no tire shop seems to be able to balance your tires right? Well, the trouble is likely just plain silly Chrysler engineering. 
The wheels have to be manually centered on the hubs every time they are installed because they are neither hub-centric nor lug-centric. On a single wheel truck, the tapered lug nuts center the wheels. Our flanged nuts don't do a good job at that. And it's pretty obvious that the wheels don't fit the hubs tight enough to center that way.
So how do you get them centered?
OK, so here we go for you visual learners:
These are the lug nuts you need. As you can see these have been used a few times...
The next step is to find the right holes on the wheels. Every other hole is concave (or convex, depending on how you look at it).
You want to install the coned nuts over two opposing concave holes, like so:
Tighten the two tapered nuts to center the wheel. Then put 6 of the flanged nuts on the other studs and crank 'em down tight:
Last step is to remove the tapered nuts and install the leftover flanged nuts:
The procedure is the same on the rear wheels, just make sure that you align the slots on the wheels with the pin on the hub.
Get those lug nights TIGHT! Torque spec is 300-325 ft. lbs, so if you have a standard 1/2" impact wrench you are leaving them too loose. These trucks came with a 3 foot bar to remove and replace the lug nuts, don't be shy about cranking them down hard.
Your tire shop will learn to hate you now.
The wheels have to be manually centered on the hubs every time they are installed because they are neither hub-centric nor lug-centric. On a single wheel truck, the tapered lug nuts center the wheels. Our flanged nuts don't do a good job at that. And it's pretty obvious that the wheels don't fit the hubs tight enough to center that way.
So how do you get them centered?
OK, so here we go for you visual learners:
These are the lug nuts you need. As you can see these have been used a few times...
The next step is to find the right holes on the wheels. Every other hole is concave (or convex, depending on how you look at it).
You want to install the coned nuts over two opposing concave holes, like so:
Tighten the two tapered nuts to center the wheel. Then put 6 of the flanged nuts on the other studs and crank 'em down tight:
Last step is to remove the tapered nuts and install the leftover flanged nuts:
The procedure is the same on the rear wheels, just make sure that you align the slots on the wheels with the pin on the hub.
Get those lug nights TIGHT! Torque spec is 300-325 ft. lbs, so if you have a standard 1/2" impact wrench you are leaving them too loose. These trucks came with a 3 foot bar to remove and replace the lug nuts, don't be shy about cranking them down hard.
Your tire shop will learn to hate you now.
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