my ats manifold was out probably more then a 1/4'' i turn to derastic measures befor educated help sometimes so a sledge fixed it no leaky

 

Ya this one need abit of that TLC stuff as well. The extra mixture of TLC and cursing is a secert.

 

Good deal. Glad to hear it bolted up. Thumbs UP.

 

Fixed.

 

Tate, been trying to figure out how to get that 98.5 APPS sensor onto the P7100. Did you use the 98.5 APPS sensor bracket on your 24V pee pump conversion?
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...=107535&page=2

Going to do something like whats pictured in thread #27.

I have a timbo TPS sensor and a 98 12V throttle linkage, but the sensor goes the opposite direction.

 

The ATS manifolds are super nice. The 3 piece that I installed is twice as heavy as the wimpy crack prone stock CR one.

As Tate mentioned, when those manifolds are new the slip joints are easily moved with a rubber mallet..
Bolt up the center section 1st & then tap the end sections around to line them up.

I'm not sure how the slip joints will be after a few years of corrosion though..

 

Joe, on you're twins, you used a 2nd gen manifold? The ATS manifold should fit better out of the box, as you pay enough for it. Mines was pre-assembled and coated.

The guy who assembles the manifolds (I'm sure ATS sells them in pieces), should use a head to make sure they fit correctly. One side was too long and had to be adjusted to fit.

 

Yes, I have the 24V 2 Gen 3 piece ATS exhaust manifold. Installed upside down like nearly all twins kit.

With the ATS twins kit, the secondary/top turbo comes prebolted to the ex manifold. But the end sections must get bumped around in shipping as I had to adjust the manifold to bolt it on.
Just a rubber mallet was all I needed. I think I had to bump one section up and one down. The manifold "flattened" out nicely as I tightened up the bolts.

 

They could get it bang on when they send it, but getting knocked around in shipping would throw it out anyway. They would need to bolt a jig to it to keep it flat, and really, thats a waste of money when you can just bolt it to the head and use a mallet/pin bar to align it on the truck.

No need for an APPS on that truck, its a 5 spd.

 

Cruise control, you need TPS feedback for the PCM. Not sure if this truck is one hundred percent PCM cruise control.

There is two tach speed pick-ups. One on the crank and one on the cam. Not sure why its that way.

 

Cruise is vacuum actuated. AFAIK, the APPS is not required for that.

Crank sensor is the one that does the work. The cam sensor only pickes up TDC on #1 cylinder, its useless. Leave it out and put the timing pin in.

 

Wow, thanks man. Thats what I wanted to hear. The fuel heater stays on all the time? Just trying to figure out the fuel shutoff solenoid? Read a few of you're posts on comp D.

Probably after suncor outage, you'll need at least a 26 of crown.

 

Yeah they're super sweet for sure. My brother-in-law runs one on his CR. He had to tweak his slightly when bolting on. Bill (Infidel) also runs the ATS on his trucks. In my opinion the stockers are more prone to cracking when jacking up the HP. Just from what I hear. If used in a stock setup probably ok. Anyway just my .02 cents.

 

The fuel heater has its own thermostat. I believe it gets constant power.

 

The wire that triggers the fuel heater relay (should be pin 85 on the relay) is on when the the key is in the start or run positon. I'm at syncrude. God help me if I wind up at suncor too.

I'm running my stocker in my twin set. Only reason I have a 3-piece on my dually is the manifold was cracked when I bought the truck. I'm going to leave it there until it cracks, or I need to mount an external gate/different manifold flange. Thats another $450 I can spend else where.