The boxes say new DDP 90's....

 

I was thinking bigger sticks could be the next project for me, but I would sure hate to go back to 1400deg.

Hopefully it turns out to be something simple.

 

When I was running my 90's I barely ever saw 1200 even on the hardest of pulls. I however had an arson III kit. I would install your new cp3 and try again before anything.

 

hey guys im not from your area. But I just wanted to say thank you for one of the most informative threads I have come across on dtr. MANY of my compound questions were answered thank you again!

 

We are in the process of changing twins configuration, so some of this will look completely different. Hoping in the next few weeks we will have a prototype done up.

 

Put in the new pump and no difference. Something tells me boost leaks again?

 

No difference in peak EGT's or in rail pressure?

If you are still running Revo TNT level 9 all defaults try running Revo TNT level 7 all defaults.

In nearly all cases including mine, level 7 makes more power than level 9.

 

Did your rail pressure go up with the new pump? If your pressure is down, then I doubt its boost leaks causing your medium EGT's. 1400 really isn't that hot anyway.

 

I'm ok with it all. An intercooler will drop it to 1300 and that's where I wanna be. Over all, very impressed with it all. Just got to find that oil fitting now Tate. What size and ends am I looking for?? Then that oil feed line to the big turbo will fit perfect and we are off to the races!!!!!

 

Spend less money and buy a cam. Broader powerband and cooler EGT's. $1500 for a 100 degree drop (if you're lucky) is a lot of coin. $600 for a cam is way better.

You need a 12mm ORB to -6 JIC. You could talk to Vulcan, they had those fittings for the fuel system. Or keep bugging Ability. Sooner or later, they are bound to get the proper fittings.

 

Isn't a cam swap hard to do?

 

Like this one?
http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Met...mm-p/m1206.htm

 

A little time consuming, but not difficult.

 

Watched Tater install a cam in his 24V...I've done cams in V8 gassers...Can't be no worse than a CR...Days work with no beer...

 

$650 is just for the camshaft, don't forget the tappets.

The front end of the truck has to come apart. If it was me, I would also do the oring in the head as well, during the cam swap. Probably also do some leak repair as well. Probably a good day of work, but nothing to difficult. I also suggest degreeing the cam and doing the valve clearance checks. Nothing is worse than doing a cam swap only to smack intake/exhaust valves.

I agree with Tate, probably some of the best money spent. A cam install is easy as pie when the engine is out of the truck. Its abit of fishing if the engine is still installed.

I suggest getting a colt stage 4 or the new hamilton 188/220