ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

Twins, Twins, Twins, Twins, Twins............

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Old Sep 29, 2011 | 03:21 PM
  #451  
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Originally Posted by dodgediesel
Oh and bye bye worm. Mike, the worm is now yours to admire. We tried to install it on the Cadillac Powerwheels but it wouldn't fit.........
Sweet I'm sure that the kid would enjoy that. Probably picked up 10-15 electronic HP volts

Sorry to miss all the fun buddy. I picked a bad time to clean-up the garage, just my wife wanted the car in the garage, prior to me escaping town.
Old Sep 30, 2011 | 12:11 AM
  #452  
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Originally Posted by Mike Holmen
Tate, I think at the current power levels for both these truck, there would have been increased spool-up rates.
GT3582R compressor 61.4inducer/82exducer 68inducer/84ex 0.63 A/R
GT3782R compressor 59.1induc /82ex 72.5induc/84ex 0.89 A/R

The compressor inducer size is smaller on the GT37, and has less slightly mass flow, but more PR available in its map.

You should just upgrade to automatic buddy. High stall converters and TC lock-up clutchs are the ticket for fast 0-60 times.
I guess it depends on what trim you get on the compressor wheel. Don't forget that my GT3782 is the 61.5mm wheel, not the 59. You didn't use the 0.63 A/R turbine housings on the GT35, did you?
Old Sep 30, 2011 | 10:26 AM
  #453  
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Originally Posted by Tate
I guess it depends on what trim you get on the compressor wheel. Don't forget that my GT3782 is the 61.5mm wheel, not the 59. You didn't use the 0.63 A/R turbine housings on the GT35, did you?
Forgot that we ran a slightly bigger turbine housing on the GT3582R stuff. The turbine A/R is 0.82 With the slightly smaller turbine disk size, so the turbine housing is abit smaller than GT3782R.

The compressor housing on the GT35 is a 2 1/2 outlet and the compressor A/R is tighter than the GT37. The bearing housing is also smaller on the GT35
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 08:47 AM
  #454  
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Well Joe, had to do a little cutting and grinding but it looks like the ATS filter sheild will work. Just waiting on a 4" AFE filter and the powdercoaters to call for the color and then I'm going to put her all together and snap some pictures for you guys.....

Injectors are going in this weekend or next weekend.
Old Oct 5, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #455  
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I'm sure it's going to look great Jamie, I'm looking forward to the pics.

Plus you'll have to get your rig on the dyno!


Perhaps even let us know when you dyno it. I would like to watch it run plus I'm sure the ASW guys would want to be there also.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #456  
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Got the DDP 90's in on the weekend. Sure can tell there is more fuel. Even with these twins I can still hit 1400 on the pyro which I don't really like. Max boost I have seen is 65psi. I still have to install the II 33% CP3 as it seems like the rail pressure goes from 23,000 psi at WOT to 15,000 psi in the last gear in lock up. Looks like an intercooler is the next step. Any recomendations on an intercooler?? The AFE ones look pretty nice, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 05:07 PM
  #457  
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Originally Posted by dodgediesel
Got the DDP 90's in on the weekend. Sure can tell there is more fuel. Even with these twins I can still hit 1400 on the pyro which I don't really like. Max boost I have seen is 65psi. I still have to install the II 33% CP3 as it seems like the rail pressure goes from 23,000 psi at WOT to 15,000 psi in the last gear in lock up. Looks like an intercooler is the next step. Any recomendations on an intercooler?? The AFE ones look pretty nice, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Your dropping rail pressure is likely contributing to the high EGT's. I would hold off an intercooler until you have your upgraded CP3 installed.

I have a BD intercooler installed & I can't honestly recommend it. It's tight all over & had minimal difference in EGT's IMO.
I bought mine when they all went on "sale" but I see that the prices for all intercoolers have stayed low.

http://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/c...ndensorsb.aspx

The Banks intercooler is the best buy since it comes with the high ram intake which you can sell for a few bucks.


With 65PSI & 1400 degrees, do you realize that you are likely close to 700RWHP??!!
It's highly unlikely that you will be towing in that configuration, so test some lower settings in your Smarty & see how the EGT's react.

As I mentioned before, some dyno time will help dial it all in....
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 07:15 PM
  #458  
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I agree with everything Joe said.

If once you have the rail pressure up, and still have egt's look into a water/meth kit as those are proven for about 200F drop.

That and 1400 degrees for short bursts isn't that hot, but towing on that level you will find that the cooling system will get hot way before anything else.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:23 PM
  #459  
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I know that some have differing thoughts on this,, but as I found out with my truck (well before it was a dedicated race truck) was that to keep the rail pressure under control (before upgraded CP3) was to put a pressure box on. I am a firm believer in a good pressure box. I ran one on my truck for a couple years of everyday driving with 0 problems. Solved my little weird check engine lights, also improved my fuel mileage considerably.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #460  
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Originally Posted by dodgediesel
Got the DDP 90's in on the weekend. Sure can tell there is more fuel. Even with these twins I can still hit 1400 on the pyro which I don't really like. Max boost I have seen is 65psi. I still have to install the II 33% CP3 as it seems like the rail pressure goes from 23,000 psi at WOT to 15,000 psi in the last gear in lock up. Looks like an intercooler is the next step. Any recomendations on an intercooler?? The AFE ones look pretty nice, any advice would be greatly appreciated.
you could try adjusting the external gate, it might be the fix for the egt's. Typically you can run more primary to remove egt's, as the top turbo is becoming a bottleneck, and driving up the egt's. Opening the gate earlier will help.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 08:46 PM
  #461  
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Originally Posted by morkable
I know that some have differing thoughts on this,, but as I found out with my truck (well before it was a dedicated race truck) was that to keep the rail pressure under control (before upgraded CP3) was to put a pressure box on. I am a firm believer in a good pressure box. I ran one on my truck for a couple years of everyday driving with 0 problems. Solved my little weird check engine lights, also improved my fuel mileage considerably.

Your trucks power & your experience speaks for itself but I always think that the 2003-2004 trucks need a pressure box since they run lower stock rail pressure than the 2004.5-2007 trucks.

I've played with the Edge EZ & had some issues with it since it doesn't boost fool.
I'm not a fan of the MP8 since the connectors seem cheap to me & the adjustment **** is so non-linear.

Dr. Performance no longer exists, but that pressure box is readily available on the used market.

I like the ATS Atomizer pressure box although I've never tried it. It does boost fool, it does seem linear plus ATS h/w is good quality.
Of course the price is much too high for a simple pressure box.

http://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/productdetail/6029202272

I nearly bought the ATS module but my last dyno showed no power increase with increasing rail pressure (likely because my CP3 can't keep up) so I'm going to be content with the Smarty mild increase in rail pressure.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 09:19 PM
  #462  
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If you can get a dr p I would,, I really believe in that unit, too bad they closed the doors... and really too bad as how they did it
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:15 PM
  #463  
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Originally Posted by StealthDiesel
With 65PSI & 1400 degrees, do you realize that you are likely close to 700RWHP??!!
How did you calculate this?


Originally Posted by dodgediesel
Got the DDP 90's in on the weekend. Sure can tell there is more fuel. Even with these twins I can still hit 1400 on the pyro which I don't really like. Max boost I have seen is 65psi. I still have to install the II 33% CP3 as it seems like the rail pressure goes from 23,000 psi at WOT to 15,000 psi in the last gear in lock up. Looks like an intercooler is the next step. Any recomendations on an intercooler?? The AFE ones look pretty nice, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I'd definitely hold off on the intercooler. Its not leaking, so minimal gains are going to be had there. Get your fuel injection system up to snuff first. Poor fuel delivery will drive up EGT's considerably.
Old Oct 11, 2011 | 11:38 PM
  #464  
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No need for a pressure box with the SSR or EFI live.
Old Oct 12, 2011 | 12:03 AM
  #465  
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Efi live yes, ssr not 100% sure yet. Once I get a chance to do some dyno time with a good data logger I will believe



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