Looks great guys! Congrats Darrell.

The Steed exhaust manifold with the external wastegate gets nicer everytime I see it.

What turbo's & specs are those?

In theory the ex brake should have a greater delay with twins but I haven't noticed any difference at all with my exhaust brake.
Some also say that having some ex brake delay is actually good as it's easier on the turbos.

You really do have to check for pre-brake leaks though. Idle the truck cold with the ex brake on. Feel for any leaks around the V-bands.
I did have a V-band leak shortly after my install but a new V-band did fix it.

Taking everything apart to get it all ceramic coated is a complete PITA, my truck sat around for 2-3 weeks waiting for Top Gun coatings on my downpipe & outlet elbow, but it was all worth

Twins are awesome. It is so nice to be able to tow, even use the cruise control, without worrying about EGT's at all.
The much smoother boost curve compared to the spikey stock turbo curve is nice also, makes for a much wider power band which makes the truck so much easier to drive.

Now about those "RAM ROD" emblems.... hahahahaha...

 

The exhaust system has issues, its was leaking fairly bad. Just ran out of time to get everything right. I would run more bracing and use better clamps.

As for twin bang for the buck, this one rocks mon. I forgot how responsive this set-up is. I'm so jealous, I want a set for my 2010 truck. Twins just woke that truck up fairly good, even with a hoard tune as bully dog and Dr P are. Felt weird seeing the rail pressure spike so hard just barely on the throttle. Caused the injectors to rattle hoardly. Darrell, you really need smarty SSR tuning. Wicked truck, had lots of people impressed on nice the truck was.

 

The GT3582R is a Ball Bearing with a T3 intake with a .82 AR turbine housing and .70 AR compressor housing.
The GT4202 is a Journal Bearing with a T4 flange with a 1.28 AR turbine housing and a .60 AR compressor housing.
(I will have to double check the compressor numbers though)

I think I will have to get a new V-band for the downpipe. I havnt pulled it off but I suspect it is twisted or bent and not aligning properly. Will address that with the ceramic coatings tear down.

The exhaust also needs a bit more support as well as Mike points out. The factory hanger on the DP needs to be modified for the new pipes and to help carry the weight of the inline Pac. I may have to put in another hanger after the Pac to change the pivot points and weight distribution. The V band ends up taking to much of the force from bumps and stopping pressure. Minor adjustments in the big picture.

Unfortunatley I wasnt able to work the problem much as the airline to the brake managed to find a hot surface and melt through before I made it out of the city.

The EGT guage is basically obsolete now. The weather was warm and towing up to the mountains into a big headwind this week heavy with a full water tank and it never hit 1300. Did see a very occassional 1250 but normally well under 1200. Cruising at 100km/hr on relatively flat roads ranged between 700 - 900. I had no problem accellerating up even the biggest hills between Calgary, Ab and Golden, BC. What a huge difference extra air makes!

My new focus might end up being coolant temp it seems. Running around 210 - 220 now where it used to be 190 - 200 so about 20 degrees hotter.

I'll have to start saving for an SSR for Xmas. Custom tuning might help dial in the coolant temps.


And Joe, the emblems usually get a good reaction at lights.


Right........

 

Yes unfortunately we got the exhaust together to the current stage about 15min before I needed to go pick you up at the airport. We knew it needed extra bracing, we just couldn't get it done. I figured it would hold up at least long enough to get you through the weekend.

When we have it apart for ceramic coating, we will get it fixed permanently.

What settings did you tow on?

 

And it held up well overall. It was a much better fit than the rough in. No smoke up front and the e brake was working until the line melted.
Ceramics and wrap should help. Surprising how hot the "cold" pipe can actually get. These are minor adjustments that we expected.

I played with the settings quite a bit. Turned tourque management back on (stock) and ran combinations of stock, tow, and performance with the Dr P on and off. Didn't run the Crazy Larry at all, no point in that and really no need to. The performance setting ran strong and cool which was an improvement over the tow setting I was limited to in the past. The Dr P was nice on the flats which helped lower RPM when crusing. Uphill the performance setting allowed me to accellerate even if I decided to do that mid hill. That makes it really great in that I can move over to let cars by in a passing lane and still pass the chev before the lane runs out. Plus, I am able to keep up to my buddy in his H&S tuned 6.7 again when we climb the big hills.
The wind made any before and after milage comparisons useless but the lie o meter suggested there was a respectable improvement. I dont want to throw a number out due to the many changes in conditions but I went further on a tank than before. Somewhere around an eighth of a tank better, but I need more trips to back that up.
I don't think I am making much more HP, but the power comes on sooner and the band is significantly wider and smoother.

 

Darrell, there is room for improvement. Lots left my friend, you have a wicked nice set-up. The coolant temp issues can be dealt with. We can find more power just tuning and smoothing stuff out. You have the probably one of nicest twins set-up we done. It worked better than I had expected. Your truck in near stock tune, has more power than my 02 running the same twins. That says lots in my books. I want try a set on my 2010 truck,

 

What I remember the most is how fast the boost responds, and there seems to be no end to the power. Both Jamie and you have one of the best twins set-ups I've worked on. Running an auto with a decent converter sure has its perks.

Thanks again guys for allowing us to try out a few different twins configurations on your trucks.

 

Wooooohoooooo, no more boost leaks!!! This thing is a ravage even with my stock injectors still in. Gonna put in my 90's and 33% CP3 ASAP and see how the twins like them!!!

Thanks Brett & Tate!!! Even got to do some trading with Tate for parts. The twin build went over my budget but oh well, I got a killer set of twins. Can't take it with me to the grave........

 

That GT3582R is sure fun! I was originally thinking the GT37 would be a better match with the GT4202 but now I think it would have been a bit more laggy than I would have liked.

I can't even imagine how crazy your truck is when you puff the giggle juice!

Really glad to hear it all came together for you!

 

With your tranny, I don't think you'd really notice a whole lot of difference. You seem to rev up to 2k rpm pretty consistently, so a turbo that spools below that would be acceptable I'd think. My twins come on fairly strong at 1700 rpm. Considering how much better a CR spools turbos, I think you'd be surprised.

 

Oh and bye bye worm. Mike, the worm is now yours to admire. We tried to install it on the Cadillac Powerwheels but it wouldn't fit.........

 

Thanks Bro. Now just some powdercoating and the air filter sheild install and I'm done. Just in time to sell it.

 

Glad to hear the trucks are running well & Jamie is getting a few loose ends cleaned up on his turbos.

I had a setback a few days ago. Toasted the front U-joint, rear trans seal & covered the underside of my truck in trans oil again. At least it won't rust this winter.
The drive shaft is at the Gear center getting a new U-joint, another new trans seal is on the way. Luckily the 2 piece driveshaft comes out easily.
Spent more time cleaning up than the actual dissassembly & then reassembly.

The U-joints were fine a few months ago at last oil change. No warning, no clunking.. My wife was just wondering why my truck was dripping oil in the garage...

I have a drive shaft loop on my Stang, perhaps a loop on my truck would be a good idea. A guy could fab one up fairly easily.

 

I had to do my front input seal Monday on my front diff, the transfer case output seal and the front u joint too so don't feel too bad Joe.
I'm going to get an aluminum shaft built to try and stop some of my 6" lift vibrations.

 

Tate, I think at the current power levels for both these truck, there would have been increased spool-up rates.
GT3582R compressor 61.4inducer/82exducer 68inducer/84ex 0.63 A/R
GT3782R compressor 59.1induc /82ex 72.5induc/84ex 0.89 A/R

The compressor inducer size is smaller on the GT37, and has less slightly mass flow, but more PR available in its map.

You should just upgrade to automatic buddy. High stall converters and TC lock-up clutchs are the ticket for fast 0-60 times.