Twins, Twins, Twins, Twins, Twins............
I do have a spare CR 5.9L and Tate has a drop in 6.7L
I save all the test drives are done as gentle as we can, but we also need to see how well the turbos works, just so we can tune them with the controller. Wow nice truck.
I save all the test drives are done as gentle as we can, but we also need to see how well the turbos works, just so we can tune them with the controller. Wow nice truck.
As for the demon wives, that why we employee big Trev, just saying he's a smooth operator.

The test runs shouldn't be too rough, as you don't own one of those fragile G56 transmissions, but we will see how good your head gasket is.
Brett told me you have SW9 loaded.
Sweet. I like the duals exhaust, gonna have to figure out a way as the 5in down pipe. Most of our stuff, we run straight pipe, but when you run twins, you really don't need a muffler.


The test runs shouldn't be too rough, as you don't own one of those fragile G56 transmissions, but we will see how good your head gasket is.
Brett told me you have SW9 loaded.
Sweet. I like the duals exhaust, gonna have to figure out a way as the 5in down pipe. Most of our stuff, we run straight pipe, but when you run twins, you really don't need a muffler.
I do trust these gentlemen as long as they don't scratch my paint or blow my headgasket, we will remain friends.....




I feel way better supporting our local crew and pushing their product as it will be displayed in a magazine. I'm glad I went this route!!!





I feel way better supporting our local crew and pushing their product as it will be displayed in a magazine. I'm glad I went this route!!!
I am less worried about the head gasket then the paint. Head gaskets are like quitting smoking: "It is easy I have done it a thousand times." 
However if we scratch the paint, I have a feeling we would be owing diesel dave a set of twins too..

However if we scratch the paint, I have a feeling we would be owing diesel dave a set of twins too..
My truck is in awesome hands. Thanks guys as this will make my BC trip way easier on the ol' Fargo...
Wow
, not really liking the new design that dodge/cummins uses for the heater/transmission heat exchanger. Turned a typical 15min job of removing the turbo/exhaust manifold into a 2-3hr job. The stock oil drains are going to have to be removed. Didn't know what Tate was talking about until last night.
My 2010 is going to be a fun truck to run twins on, with all those braces and plastic stuff.
Jamie, when you come out, I have a job for ya.
You can remove the oil drain plug on the block.
Thinking about adjusting the stock design on the heat/trans heat exchanger coolant line. Might want to run a design similar to the 2nd gen. I don't like rubber hoses so close to hot exhaust manifolds. Don't know what dodge/cummins designer that thought that one up.
I like to have all those rubber lines gone and replaced with stainless. I bet the typical twin kit nothing is done with that line. Wow
, not really liking the new design that dodge/cummins uses for the heater/transmission heat exchanger. Turned a typical 15min job of removing the turbo/exhaust manifold into a 2-3hr job. The stock oil drains are going to have to be removed. Didn't know what Tate was talking about until last night.
My 2010 is going to be a fun truck to run twins on, with all those braces and plastic stuff.Jamie, when you come out, I have a job for ya.
You can remove the oil drain plug on the block.Thinking about adjusting the stock design on the heat/trans heat exchanger coolant line. Might want to run a design similar to the 2nd gen. I don't like rubber hoses so close to hot exhaust manifolds. Don't know what dodge/cummins designer that thought that one up.
I like to have all those rubber lines gone and replaced with stainless. I bet the typical twin kit nothing is done with that line. Wow
Wow
, not really liking the new design that dodge/cummins uses for the heater/transmission heat exchanger. Turned a typical 15min job of removing the turbo/exhaust manifold into a 2-3hr job. The stock oil drains are going to have to be removed. Didn't know what Tate was talking about until last night.
My 2010 is going to be a fun truck to run twins on, with all those braces and plastic stuff.
Jamie, when you come out, I have a job for ya.
You can remove the oil drain plug on the block.
Thinking about adjusting the stock design on the heat/trans heat exchanger coolant line. Might want to run a design similar to the 2nd gen. I don't like rubber hoses so close to hot exhaust manifolds. Don't know what dodge/cummins designer that thought that one up.
I like to have all those rubber lines gone and replaced with stainless. I bet the typical twin kit nothing is done with that line. Wow
, not really liking the new design that dodge/cummins uses for the heater/transmission heat exchanger. Turned a typical 15min job of removing the turbo/exhaust manifold into a 2-3hr job. The stock oil drains are going to have to be removed. Didn't know what Tate was talking about until last night.
My 2010 is going to be a fun truck to run twins on, with all those braces and plastic stuff.Jamie, when you come out, I have a job for ya.
You can remove the oil drain plug on the block.Thinking about adjusting the stock design on the heat/trans heat exchanger coolant line. Might want to run a design similar to the 2nd gen. I don't like rubber hoses so close to hot exhaust manifolds. Don't know what dodge/cummins designer that thought that one up.
I like to have all those rubber lines gone and replaced with stainless. I bet the typical twin kit nothing is done with that line. Wow
That heater pipe/cooler is total abortion on the CR automatic trucks. It's much better on the CR manual trans trucks.
For that heater pipe bracket that attaches to one of the ex manifold bolts, the service manual says to cut it off & then re-weld it when putting it back together.
While I did cut it, I fabbed a small bracket to hold it together with bolts.
This way if you are ever in there again, it's just a matter of unbolting/bolting it.
I did the same with the ex downpipe bracket attached to the bellhousing.
Some twins kit require you to bend & mod that heater pipe to make it fit.
The older style PDR/Industrial kit comes with a complete new heater pipe.
While it is really nice, it puts the heaterpipe up on top, in the way of the studs, water bypass kit if you have one, etc...
Here's a pic of the olde style PDR/Industrial custom heater pipe that came with that twins kit.
In the same picture you can see the A/C lines really nicely bent out of way.
I bent mine a little by hand, but wish I could have gotten them completely out of way.
The BD & Source twins kits use some spacers to move the A/C drier/evap away from the turbo's. It doesn't really work.
That kinda similar to what I want to build, just using stainless tubing and swedgelock fittings. Move all those rubber coolant lines out of the way from those hot turbos. I also plan to relocate my 2010 heat exchanger to up front, just for easy of repairing it. My 02 is a dream to work on, as its already been adjusted.
The stock intercooler boots are pretty thin and flismy, probably will not take 60-70psi for very long.
Also noted, the new S476 is slightly different than the old S475, like whats in that picture.
The stock intercooler boots are pretty thin and flismy, probably will not take 60-70psi for very long.

Also noted, the new S476 is slightly different than the old S475, like whats in that picture.
I think using stainless braided hose on a manual trans truck or a truck that has the auto trans heat exchanger deleted is unnecessary,
unless you have to mod that hard pipe to fit in the twins.
If you're keeping that heat exchanger then tossing all that piping & using stainless braided hose would be a great idea.
I would still try to keep it under the ex manifold though & out of the way.
While my ATS twins kit isn't perfect, it did not need modifying that heater hard pipe to fit on my manual trans truck.
The stock intercooler boots are totally lame. I hope you aren't re-using them. They aren't even up to holding up with a stock turbo, let alone 60-70 PSI !!
I'm looking forward to Jamie's & Darrell's twins kit nearly as much as they are!!
I hope I don't start messing around with my truck this fall.
Daniela's engine failure has tempered me greatly, as I could not have my truck down during the summer RV season.
So I've been wrenching & racing around town & around the RaceCity road course in my Stang.
My last track day last Friday was with the Allen Berg Race School. They confirmed that RaceCity is absolutely done this year.
They are moving their operation to California over the winter....
unless you have to mod that hard pipe to fit in the twins.
If you're keeping that heat exchanger then tossing all that piping & using stainless braided hose would be a great idea.
I would still try to keep it under the ex manifold though & out of the way.
While my ATS twins kit isn't perfect, it did not need modifying that heater hard pipe to fit on my manual trans truck.
The stock intercooler boots are totally lame. I hope you aren't re-using them. They aren't even up to holding up with a stock turbo, let alone 60-70 PSI !!
I'm looking forward to Jamie's & Darrell's twins kit nearly as much as they are!!
I hope I don't start messing around with my truck this fall.
Daniela's engine failure has tempered me greatly, as I could not have my truck down during the summer RV season.
So I've been wrenching & racing around town & around the RaceCity road course in my Stang.

My last track day last Friday was with the Allen Berg Race School. They confirmed that RaceCity is absolutely done this year.
They are moving their operation to California over the winter....
I run the stock boots on the intake side of the truck and they've seen 75 psi several times, never been an issue. The drain plug at the front of the block just got punched into the pan on my truck. Along with the last 2" of the stock turbo drain
. We had to modify that heater line on my truck. We ended up removing the short piece of rubber hose that connects the two hard pipes and lengthening it. Then shortened and rotated the hose going into the heater core.
. We had to modify that heater line on my truck. We ended up removing the short piece of rubber hose that connects the two hard pipes and lengthening it. Then shortened and rotated the hose going into the heater core.





