started tonight.
should have the mount done tommorow.
waiting on stuff to arrive from source.

then ***** deep into it.

not sure if iam going to flip the manifold or not.
i thought about keeping everything tight so that if i swap these onto a future project there will be no clearance issues
anyway heres the start

HE351/476

going to support the turbo by the t6 flange and the oil drain centre section.
pipe thread tap the angle for a nice AN fitting and stainless drain hose then use a gasket to seal the turbo/mount.

obviously gussets/bracing.. should be ZERO weight on the hot pipe

ANY SUGGESTIONS FROM THE PRO'S??


oh ya for the record..............i wanted small upgraded injectors got talked into a set of 5x18's.....dvstader......................tra nny grenaded...........and then mike hooked me up with a turbo to clean up the smoke.

so iam out $7400+ since august and its your guys fault

no hard feelings boys.

 

I would support it on either the turbine housing flange or the CHRA drain flange, but not both. Lining things up can be a pain, and being able to remove the turbine housing when you need to is nice. Makes loading the turbo in and out of the bay easy when its half the weight.

 

good point. i was thinking "do it once" type thing. i always build overkill.
i just thought thats was alot of weight on just the flange

i thought i would make the main plate bolt to a bracket so the turbo is always mounted to the plate.

i took my inner fender out and was going to put the heat exchanger on the frame..

i give you guys credit for fitting twins in a 3rd gen.

 

The single support will be enough. The hot pipe will add some rigidity as well. The nice thing about using the turbine housing to take the weight is you can just slide the CHRA in and tighten the V-band, makes installation easy. Also makes the turbo drain gasket easy to change if need be.

 

yeah tyrbo drain gasket is pita.
my he351 finally took me making one to stop leaking.

a nice thick flange with pipe threads would be nice

 

made some progress.

should have the turbo "mounted" in a couple days
still waiting on source. the piping should be pretty quick

going to have to trim a little heater box insulation.

what fitting should i use for the primary turbo drain? Are you guys putting it into the pan?

and can the pan be removed without lifting the engine?.

 

ok couple of questions.maybe dumb ones...........my first compund build go easy on me

what kind of boost numbers should i expect with this setup.

do i need to o-ring the head? will a blow off valve at lets say 65 psi suffice?
i have studs for it.

i purchased sources cheapo bov's sales guy said ill need a couple to drop to 50 psi.

how will the .10 over head gasket lower compression ratio affect spool up and performance with the compounds?Will the lower compression ratio give me hard starts up north?(should have the espar on by then but...)should i stickto the stocker?

also with water/meth will the lower compression affect anything.


i want to avoid head work and make it reliable still............id rather save my money for a hamilton head and go full out later then spend $$ now and wish id gone that route anyway...........and the money is gone


turbo is in its new home almost ...waiting for parts

 

texted my buddy asked him what hes running and im not sure what else if any he has done but he told me hes pushing 65

 

BOV are for surge control. Pop valves just cause your turbos to over spin and cause boost to drive pressure imbalance. The best way is to control boost is to run a wastegate on the primary turbo.

60psi is on the edge for a non oringed head. ARP studs help. I would also torque the stock bolts up more. Just don't use stretched bolts, as they might break and will be difficult to get them to reach the required torque.

 

Oversized gaskets or different gasket grade will cause hard starts during cold starts. I rather run the stock compression. The stock bolts can handle 60psi, just crank them upto 125 ft*lbs.

The 5X18 are a decent sized fun stick, you just need to tweak that VE for the new sticks. If the sticks haze some, I can increase the pop pressure on the sticks some. Helps to decrease some fuel flow on the larger sticks.

 

i already have a .10 over cummins gasket and arp studs. i bought the gasket a long time ago thinking that id be twining it and the lower C/R would help with higher boost #'s.i could always have the deck milled to make up for the .10 over gasket to keep it stock. they might need to mill anyway.
i was just wondering if a .20 gasket is needed especially if iam running 65+psi.

i guess ill o-ring it.........better safe then sorry.

now about wastegates.

i am going to port the he351 factory wastegate to 1.125. not really sure if that will be sufficent. havent talked to trev to see how his is working.
and what kind of boost #'s is he seeing?
The blow off valves were to limit overall boost to **
but if i o-ring the head is the sky is the limit ? the more the better?
what kind of boost will the powerstroke intercooler take.I see most guys are running a BOV before the inercooler

the sticks haze at idle and well untill the twins are done iam not sure about smoke.But i might need something done with them mike.thanks too eh

 

Drop the pop off valves like a bad habit. They are a boost leak, nothing more. If you're pushing too much boost, dial back the wastegate. If its still too much, dial back the fuel.

As far as the head gasket goes, you'll drop ~0.5 points of compression. Stock is 17:1, so you'd be in the 16.5:1. Stock SO 24v are 16.3:1, so you're still well within the safe zone. Unless your non-intercooled engine is below that already.

O-ring the head if you can. $300 is nothing after a popped headgasket and associated down time. And you're close to Dave (relatively), so that would be my first avenue.

 

yeah and he is right at the bus depot

ok............ill send it ........well valve grind too?? and o-rings?
not going to port.......dont have the cash

the source guy upsold me...........i guess they sell them so that someone who wants to run twins and not touch the gasket/head can.
they were cheap at least

now how much boost can a factory powerstroke cooler handle

 

Aluminum end tanks or plastic?

 

well i have it home and its time to finish.

ill ask some questions and opinions soon.

but today and tommorow is about

hope you peeps are doing the same



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