StealthDiesel

Thanks for the intercooler boots photoshoot Luke!!


So just to finish off this thread, Glacier Diesel sent up the correct intercooler boot that I needed. While the original 4" boot was holding fine the 5" boot fit perfectly.

A few pics of the Glacier diesel intake plate. It's a really nice piece, fit perfectly & looks great. Since I did so many upgrades at once, unfortunately I have no way of saying if it really improved air flow.

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That's my Edge Juice/Attitude on the fuse box but it's no longer connected.
I've been tuning the truck with my Smarty, doing some long 6 gear pulls.
Even with my Edge J/A on level 0, Smarty on 60HP, I was spiking my stock turbo to 48 psi & could hold 45 psi on it. Plus the egt's were thru the roof.

It turns out the Edge does some serious boost fooling even on level 0 which essentially disables the electronic wastegate on the stock turbo.
Once I disconnected it my Smarty parameters actually took effect.
I could enable & disable my wastegate with the Smarty.
Now I am spiking 40 PSI & holding 37 PSI which is much better with the stock turbo. EGT's are now manageable & way less smoke now.

Truck runs very nice now. Haven't towed with it yet, that's coming up shortly.



Also finished off my shifter. Never did weld it but used a "file to fit" grade 8 washer to lock the lever in place & really cranked it down.
Plus a SRT 10/Viper T56 shift ****. The T56 6 speed trans has the exact same shift pattern as a NV5600.
Just ran a tap thru the **** to fit the metric threads on the NV5600 shift lever. The **** & chrome shift lever feels good & looks great.

I still have to install the lower shifter boot. The BD short shift stub better not break again.

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1-5-3-6-2-4

I do what i can

pistazie

looks much better with the new IC boot, I love that intake plate. I have to ask though, I was checking out his website and the only ones I saw on there were with the gird heater delete...was yours special order or does he have those kicking around too? I can't remember, but the top surface was flat, right? Glad to hear the truck runs so well with the smarty!

StealthDiesel

Thanks Daniela!

The option to keep the grid heater is there & is not a special order. It's on the drop down menu.

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...f_id=0307-ABIP


The top of the intake plate is flat. If you delete the grid heater, it comes with a shorter grid heater delete block which will keep the air horn at the stock height.

If you keep the grid heater, it comes with longer studs & it will raise the air horn by a 1/2". (The height of the raised intake plate.)
This is when I recommend going to a 5"L x 3" id air horn boot. Glacier now has these for US$17.


Edit: If I recall you have the BD or AFE air horn? The Glacier provided studs may not work for other air horns depending on how the air
horn is bolted on. If it does use different bolts or studs, you will need 1/2" longer bolts or studs to accomodate the raised intake.

pistazie

Thanks Joe, I found the drop down menu you were talking about, too bad its the same price as the grid delete - you'd think they'd start with a smaller block of metal and have less machining for the non-grid delete version?? I'll get the longer IC boot too, plus that is a good point about needing different bolts - I've got the BD horn.

Now not sure what to do - been advised to do the coolant bypass as its easier when the valve cover is off. But the plate is also easier too?? I'd love to get both, but not really realistic.

Actually neither is realistic financially right now - problem solved, lol!!

StealthDiesel

The water bypass install is not really affected by the valve cover. As you saw, I never installed my water bypass kit since it would be in the way of the head studs. It will go on later.

IMO, if you are not towing heavy in the mountains nor drag racing your truck, the water bypass is not worth it.
If you blow out the rear frost plug & you are not too far from home, it's not that big of a deal.
Tow the truck home or to the dealer to replace it.

One of my goals is to prevent a failure at the top of Roger's Pass with my RV hooked up in 40+C weather on my vacation. That's why the ARP 625 studs,
why I'm so conservative with my Smarty, why so many gauges, why I have the 3/8" support plate on my rear frost plug, why just 50HP injectors, why I bought the water bypass kit.

As for the Glacier intake plate, its a nice piece & it looks like it would increase air flow but I havent' seen any before & after dyno numbers on it.
The only reason I installed it is since I had my fuel rail out when doing my injectors so it was so easy to install at that time.
There are plenty of high HP trucks with the stock intake plate.


LOL, not sure this helps... Joe

pistazie

lmao! yes it is helpful, we actually arrived at the same conclusion - that I don't need either - but via two entirely different thought processes.

But you forget one EXTREMELY important argument for me getting both, which is that goatbrain is getting the bypass therefore I need it too - logical! Plus I need the intake plate so I can actually one-up him. finally some clarity on the subject