D'oh.........I made my own carnage today...Needed to resurface my rotors..Used the rotor a brace...which is not the best way to do it as per Wink(guess I should of asked)....Great way to destroy a wheel bearing.....Didn't say I know everything...

 

Saskatchewan Boys...sigh...

 

Is that your wheel hub? I think that your truck is a 4X4 truck. Looks like the hub was glued to rotor pretty good. That hub is pretty toasted anyways, time to get some go hubs. I just torch out my ball joints and hammer at a few spots. Rob's air hammer work better though... How does the ball joints look buddy?

 

Oh...yes the hub is toast...I don't know if I could of saved that hub in the first place....It took a 8 lb sledge to knock the back hub plate of the knuckle...That thing was rusted in so bad....I have to do the drivers side...yet...The old dodge fronts diffs just suck when removing rotors...

Ball joints look good....Rob helping me in these parts I destroyed...Don't want to put to much into it...Want to get the lockout hubs like Tate has..

 

I learned how to use a bigger hammer from an Ontario farm boy...

 

Bahhhh HOT WRENCH BUBBA !!!!

 

I seen a neat trick that Steve showed me, he uses a socket and the power steering to do that

 

Yes...I know that trick...But some how today...I got brain damage...and wasn't thinking...

 

thats the only way I've ever done wheelbearings. is with a socket and powerassist.

 

The first shop I worked at we used a huge custom built slide hammer to pull dodge hubs. That was a hard way to do it. The power assist way to so much better. Its amazing how many other mechainics I've shown that trick too.

 

I had some 1/2" B7 studs in my tool box that I used to pop them out. The drivers side came out without the truck running. Passenger side needed the engine running, and once the bearing popped out, the stud went flying to the back of the truck. Found it by the rear tire, with a good bend in it. Next time, I'll use 5/8" studs. Not that I can use that trick on the EMS anyway.

 

Never knew these trucks had a sealed split bearing assembly...

 

I normally use a 3/4 in rod, cut to length to give a good angle for pressing them out. I haven't bent it yet over around 3 years of use