I have an 04 I've started the engine removal of. This is my first build. So... I have one of "those" questions...

How the (*&&*( do I remove 5 and 6 pushrods to get the head off? Everything else is good to go. They won't lift high enough to clear the head because they hit the underside of the cab/dash. I'm guessing it's something simple, but...

Thanks

 

pull the plugs out of the firewall/driptray

 

yup,, there is two rubber plugs that you can feel if your rub your hands around under there.. they just pop out with a flat screwdriver

 

Thanks Guys.

The head is out. It looks OK, so I'm guessing it's the rings... I'll know more after next days off... I hope. Hunting season though....

Yes, I'll get the head checked though... ;-)

 

Got going through the cylinders and pistons. 1 shows obvious signs of distress - ie marks in the piston etc. Feeling the cylinder wall shows obvious damage and wear (towards the rear). The deck also shows some distortion. I guess I'll be looking for recommendations for affordable "we can check it and machine it" places... I'm trying to do this on a budget. The flip side is I may have an engine coming to me that is useable. I'll be getting it checked out before install too. I KNOW it needs injectors though. I'll have to get them sent out and checked.

 

Post some pics, I would go oversized vs. sleeving the block. Seen way to many tapper cylinders at the very top of the cylinders to re-use the stock pistons. Just doing a duramax 05 engine, it average 4-5 thou of tapper above the top ring area. Had a bunch of bad luck lately with the CTD rods, almost each of the rods are beyond recommend tolerances on the big end.

If you going to run the CR engine, at least run the QSB 480 pistons. They seem to hold-up better. Top ring failure is form the really tight ring tolerances that cummins runs on there CR engines. I would at least open up the top ring 10 thou, from cummins spec.

 

If needed I could part with my 12v rods. They are out getting peened right now

 

Kev, I measure the big ends prior to spending any money on cummins rods. Once they are larger than spec, there is nothing you can do beside ordering oversized shells. I have about half the rods fail to be with in the allowable tolerance.

Ironbrew, I would order the engine manuals from cummins prior to building. Lots of good info in the books. Come in real handy when you building stuff.

 

These are brand new from cummins. Never used

 

Thanks Morkable

I'm not in a rush at this time, although I will admi to impatience.

Out of curiosity, anybody have a rough price on the manuals? I'm in camp at the moment.

Thanks

 

I'm abit mad at my machine shop. I dropped of my 6 of my 12V rods (english rods), got back (they have oiling at the top of the rod and bushing is drilled for top oiling). Got back 3 mexico and 3 brazil rods, 24VP stuff.

I'm so mad, the small end bushings wasn't even done right. The machining on the block and crank was done awesome, and I really happy with it. Been a hard process trying to find a decent shop to get stuff done decently. Also when I went to pick-up my parts, the forklift ripped off my tail gate cap and bent my tail gate on my 2010.

Just sharing my findings.

 

That sucks Mike

 

I had one good engine with a cracked cylinder. Turn around time on this stuff is a killer.

I must have about $10k of parts laying around in my garage, just waiting on f'n rods. Been wanting these engine turned around like today. Been figuring out lots of stuff though along the way.

You put the QSB 480 piston beside a 305CR pistons, the only difference is the part number. The 480's a cheaper solution for those on a budget. Comes with a piston pin, most piston don't.

Hey found a cheaper federal mogule parts line for pistons, anybody want to try them. They are about 2/3's the price of the cummins parts.

 

I have a copy of the shop manual on hardisk. Pretty sure I have 03-04/ 05 and up to 07. I ain't far from Stoney. Gimme a pm and I'll try to get this thing to you.