cbrahs

only issue and its totally up to you is that the CEL will be on all the time. If there ever was a real issue you would not know. If you have a scan tool at home, just check for other codes now and then so you don't do any damage. keep the TV plugged in.

also here is a tip on these trucks.

ALWAYS ( ) drive with the exhaust brake on. Keeps the slide in the VGT moving and helps reduce the amount of soot build up

ALWAYS get the engine up to operating temps and run it hard now and then to keep the dpf and all the other junk cleared up (short trips to the store, post office, soccer practice is what kills these things and those are the people that complain of problems because they should never have bought the truck in the first place cause they don't need it. short trips soot up the turbo and intake tract. short trips don't allow the condensation build up in the motor to be burnt off by getting it up to full operating temp and beating on the truck now and then to keep things cleared.)

ALWAYS change your fuel filter at a max 15k miles and keep record (if you do it yourself which you should cause it is easy). Keep all your receipts in a file with date and mileage on the receipt when fuel filter was changed. I have seen manufactures deny warranty for lack of proof that the customer maintained the rig. The manufacture supplies a warranty but it is up to the owner to supply the maintenance required outlined in the manual and they can and will deny warranty for failure to maintain.

if you do any of your own maintenance, keep records with dates, mileage and receipts. keeps you out of trouble, less headache etc.

(for example from my personal experience with a customer with an RX8 here in town. rx8's are POS cars. they require to be run hard and high RPM. they use oil (its in the owners manual that they do too) and mazda has extended the engine warranty to 100k or 8 or 9 years. Customer brings car in, low power, hard starting. totally fits the bill for a new motor on mazda's dime. we have only seen the car 2 times for oil changes and there are 3 oil change intervals past our records. I ask them if they are original owners. They say no, i say I need a copy of the purchase agreement with the dealership they purchased it from to show they are not original owners. AND i need 3 oil change receipts to show maintenance. they say we had it done here and there etc. I say sorry. get me the receipts cause mazda is requesting them. so for 3 days they run around and get the proof. mean time they are getting PO'd at me and i sit them down and explain. you provide the proof you have maintained the rig per mfg requirements and mazda will replace your motor ($4200 worth) for FREE. NO RECEIPTS NO ENGINE its simple. so they chilled out, they got me the goods, got the engine for free, they paid for parts for a clutch and since the motor was being changed there was no labor and I also paid for the new oil and filter for their troubles.

moral of the story- always use 1 place for your maintenance. records are in 1 location OR keep killer records yourself to a "T". With the cost of oil, filter, grease, disposal running around getting all the parts etc to do it yourself, I take mine to the dealer and $60 later and its done, there is record, I am not running around taking time out of my day (cause my time is worth $$$ to me) and I have no hassle. if they screw up its on them and they know it. If I screw up its on me and its my dime cause its not mfg failure of part, its my fault and nobody to blame and all repairs are out of my pocket. so I let the dealer do it. I do however change my own fuel filters, diff service and t-case service with records etc. the dealer can do trans and engine. its cheap and i don't have to mess with it.

spenceharper

All good advice. I have heard to plug the egr in once in a while to "keep it clean", but wasnt sure about that or the throttle valve. If my mpg keeps going up with it unplugged, I don't see putting it back. It is a double edged sword owning something so new. On the one hand, the truck is flawless, untouched, then on the other hand, too pristine to mess with. I know what needs to be done eventually. Maybe by then someone will figure out a way to delete without a programmer. Or, I will get sick of the epa bullcrap and just go for it. I will study the forums for more tips, of course. Thanks a bunch.

Spence

Mike Holmen

The cheapest way to delete is to run the resistors and run a delete pipe to remove the DPF. Still will get defuels on power that way, going to have to do lots of engine code clears to make work. Probably at some point get a service ASAP code come up, and have a major defuel. H&S is the best way to do a code free delete.

spenceharper

I'm not really looking at the cheapest way. Simply put, I just want to delete the restrictive stuff without using a programmer, but I want the truck to run right without codes. Right now, it appears no one has figured out how to do that unless you add the programmer.

does anyone know what happens in Utah (Utah county) when you finally need to inspect these if you delete? Would it fail, or do you have to put everything back before you go in?

Spence

Mike Holmen

H&S XRT or smarty is your only way for a code free delete. Some guys just gut the DPF/cat out for the inspections. If you do that, find a clogged one or a used unit. We are lucky up here no EPA road inspections yet.

spenceharper

Can you put a plate just after the EGR, blocking it off, leave the harness plugged in and run without it causing codes?

Decided to plug mine back in for a test. After 4 starts, the CEL cleared, but mpg's nearly immediately started to fall again, same types of driving. I notice no change in power with it plugged in or not, but there is definately better mileage without it plugged in. Would like to just block it off but leave the harness plugged in, if it will run code free and not cause other issues. Anyone know?

Thanks in advance.

Mike Holmen

Yes you can do that, but you will get codes. Some guys throw a plug in the tubing going from the egr cooler to egr soleniod valve. I think its just easier to unplug the egr. The newer 6.7L trucks have a sensor on that line to measure if your truck is really regen and not plugged up. Some guys have removed the actuvator from inside the egr soleniod. None of this is code free and you will get codes.

xp8103

I'm a computer programmer by education and trade. I have to imagine that they are working on fooling the ECM without leaving a trace. Because, afterall, that is what hackers do.

Mike Holmen

Good luck, but there are always programmer adjustments that can be spotted by the dealer tech. The computer records when it was been talked to (i.e. code clears/ecm flashs). H&S is at the top of the game for hacking in and they can't do it. Realistically, if you put the truck back to stock for the dealer visits and you don't have a blown motor/broken turbo/broken transmission from 40+psi hot rodding, you not have any issues.

I just don't want those dealer flunkys working on my truck, up here there isn't anyone that I trust that could do a better repair than myself. I could fix any thing with an unlimited repair budget (your wallet)/ ton of parts at my finger tips, but guess who pays for it in the end. Your lucky if the dealer even has a journey man tech in the shop and has any diesel experience.

jkelley

Guy's I just had all the deletes done after some of the same thoughts, and concerns posted here. Truthfully now I have a truck that runs as it should have in stock form!
I love it, and as mentioned the warrantee could very well be toast but I now feel I am driving a truck that breathes well and is much better to drive. I have the Mini Max on no power and hope to realize the MPG increases I have read about. If someone does do the deletes and beats their truck into submission and expects the dealer to fix it for free then they are nut's any way IMHO. I never trust a dealer ship mechanic I don't personally know.

spenceharper

All very good points. I know the truck will run better without the EGR, DPF or cat(s). I have yet to give it a good towing test, but power level seems good to me at this time. It is likely I will eventually do the deletes and have to add the programmer. I know how to drive the truck with added power and not kill it. In the mean time, I'm just basically figuring out what I can and can't get away with on these new motors as my previous truck was a 7.3 powerstroke that had none of this stuff on it. I'll keep thinking, and probably asking a lot of questions. Thanks for all the help.

Spence