Stargeezer

Hi gang,

I'm ready to install a Glacier 2mu filter/seperator kit under my truck. Laying under the truck, just in front of the fuel tank, which line going up there is the supply line?

Number one son is ready to do the job, but he does not want to cut the wrong line - I'd prefer he didn't cut the wrong one either. :-)

Thanks always!

Jim W

I installed my 2mu filter after the factory filter, which is now 5mu and before the CP3 pump.
I did not cut any fuel lines to the factory filter. Stop and think about it, why would you want to filter to 2mu and then 5mu afterwards.
I use the factory filter first which is 5mu and than filter to 2mu.
Jim W.

Stargeezer

Hi Jim,

I'd like to put it in there, but there's almost no open space up there. We'll sure take another look.

The reason I was placing it in front of the OEM filter was to keep crud from getting that far. When we changed filters a couple weeks ago I was amazed how crudy it was in 10k miles. I can't do much about what goes into the tank, but I hope to make sure what goes to the motor is as clean as possible.

I'm looking for a fuel dealer that supplies more diesel operators, but around here we are a minority.

Thanks neighbor!

carl48

the feed line is a little bigger than the return

New2Diesel

I strongly recommend that you do not put the MKII Kit before the factory filter. Just as JimW said, there is absolutely no positive benefit. Let the factory filter/seperator do its job first. Also, if you got the kit from GDP, did you get the bracket that bolts directly to the factory block holes?

If you did not, I recommend that you order that bracket and install as such. Richard's website has plenty of photos.

Just my recommendation. Hope it helps

Blake Clark

Im gonna second that too. Let the factory filter be your sacrificial filter. Then the GDP setup gets clean 5m diesel and filters it once again.

Everyone is now happy!

Jim W

Hi,
You can still mount the filter down low if you like. Just run longer fuel lines to and from the stock filter and the CP3 pump.
I am a little cautious about my fuel quality, but I do not buy from any BP station or any other station that sells BIO fuel like Pilot or Flying J. Unless this is the only fuel in the area and I am pulling my 5er an almost out of fuel. I tend to buy from a high volume dealer that sells a lot of diesel fuel. This way the fuel is turn over more often and not sitting in the tank waiting to be purchased.
I use either Murphy Oil (Wal-Mart) or Meijer gas station in the area. They seem to sell a large amount of fuel in my area.
I also change my two filters every 10K miles. I know I do not need to change the 2mu filter as much, but I do. I have notice that the 5mu filter (factory one) is always full of crud and dirty. But this is a good thing since it is doing its job. What is hard to understand is that all filters work better that are somewhat dirty than a perfectly clean filter.
Hope this helps.
Jim W.

Stargeezer

?Richard?? Would you mind passing a link to me?

I thought the underhood mount replaced the oem filter, I'll check it out. If I mount this unit under the hood, how far should I stay away from the motor? Does the 6.7 move much under load?

Thanks guys.

Stargeezer

Every station around here pumps bio-d. Like you, I aviod the BP stations if at all possible. The wally world here does not sell gas or fuel anymore - they even pulled the tanks last year. I've been buying from a Shell station, but it's bio too and may come from the same supplier as the rest.

Thanks Jim

carl48

read this
we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3374 if you think you must have a drain on the separator use 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed.

the dirty one i used cheap steel bases and cut new threads on the inserts on the lathe to fit the filter. your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed
jason the cp3 will put out full power with input pressure from 22 psi to a minus 5 psi. this is from Bosch recommended speck. Bosch told Chrysler not to go above 5 microns on the filter because of wear. you have a 10 micron filter. the larger cr engines and the 5.9 industrial use 2 micron filters we run a fleet of dodges and the first 03 we got had all kinds of problems with the injectors. Bosch worked with us to find the problem. once we started using the new filter setup we have never had another problem. i stock a huge amount of filters for my equipment and to start with i used what i had in stock and modified a cheap steel base to accept the filter i wanted to use. over the last 8 years we have refined our selection to two filters and found bases that cost more but do not require lathe work. we have it down now to a one hour total time to build and install cost even with the expensive bases is about $120. you will never have to replace the stock filter and depending where you get your fuel you can get up to 200,000 miles between filter change. i can send old pix of installs before we settled on the two we now use. i have one pix of the new bases on a 03 and when it becomes time to change i will replace with the two new. email me your email address to ckjr48@aol.com and i will send pix and instructions
these are old pix some date back to 03. most of mine i use a cheap steel base as shown on a new install on a 06 before cleanup but i have to cut new threads on my lathe to fit the filter. the parts listed are plug and play. the pix using the base listed was installed on the 03. none of the pix show the filters used now. we standardized to the two listed in 06. there are pix of where the two bolts are, both the single seat and double seat are shown. a one plate pix home made plate is shown but took all day with mill and lathe to make. we have it down now to one hour total time to build and install and that includes time rounding up parts. to drill the holes i made a template out of cardboard and keep it for the next one. your first one will take about two hours because you will have to keep holding things in place before mounting to make sure of clearance.
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New2Diesel

http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/pr...id=MK21012-BLK

Richard is the owner of Glacier Diesel. He has helped me alot during my truck build. There are a few pics on this link and on his site it has detailed instructions.

Stargeezer

Thanks buddy!