Wheel Hub and U Joints
#1
Wheel Hub and U Joints
What bearing hub should I go with? Any recommendation and site I can order them from would be great. I have searched several sites and forums but no answers on what everyone uses.
Has anyone used the GMB brand from ebay for $100, are they safe, will the last?
Thanks
Has anyone used the GMB brand from ebay for $100, are they safe, will the last?
Thanks
#2
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I will nly use a TIMKEN Bearing set on my vehicles. havent had to replace one on my 2006, but used them in both my 1996 and 1999 1/2 tons and the wifes Durango. TIMKEN should be USA made and prob best bearing you can buy.
Snap-On has a tool, a "DHP1". It is used to press the bearing out of the spindle.. back the bolts out half way to start on back of spindle. put tool over bolt head and have someone turn steering to wedge tool agains knuckle of axle. work your way in criss cross pattern slowly using the steering hydraulics to apply pressure. A smack with hammer helps break corrosion and get them moving while under pressure. Once apart be sure to clean surfaces and coat good with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
Snap-On has a tool, a "DHP1". It is used to press the bearing out of the spindle.. back the bolts out half way to start on back of spindle. put tool over bolt head and have someone turn steering to wedge tool agains knuckle of axle. work your way in criss cross pattern slowly using the steering hydraulics to apply pressure. A smack with hammer helps break corrosion and get them moving while under pressure. Once apart be sure to clean surfaces and coat good with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
#3
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I will nly use a TIMKEN Bearing set on my vehicles. havent had to replace one on my 2006, but used them in both my 1996 and 1999 1/2 tons and the wifes Durango. TIMKEN should be USA made and prob best bearing you can buy.
Snap-On has a tool, a "DHP1". It is used to press the bearing out of the spindle.. back the bolts out half way to start on back of spindle. put tool over bolt head and have someone turn steering to wedge tool agains knuckle of axle. work your way in criss cross pattern slowly using the steering hydraulics to apply pressure. A smack with hammer helps break corrosion and get them moving while under pressure. Once apart be sure to clean surfaces and coat good with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
Snap-On has a tool, a "DHP1". It is used to press the bearing out of the spindle.. back the bolts out half way to start on back of spindle. put tool over bolt head and have someone turn steering to wedge tool agains knuckle of axle. work your way in criss cross pattern slowly using the steering hydraulics to apply pressure. A smack with hammer helps break corrosion and get them moving while under pressure. Once apart be sure to clean surfaces and coat good with anti-sieze before re-assembly.
#4
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My bearings came out with the Snop-On tool and a hammer. I had my son hold some pressure on the steering wheel with the tool pressing on the bearing bolt. i smacked the outer part of the bearing to give a little shock. the started to move after a couple smacks. Then just worked in a criss cross pattern across the 4 bolts that hold the bearing in.
I have been told since that someone bent his steering parts on a 1500 doing that, but I watched and only had son apply enough pressure to get everything tight plus a little. Not just crank over as hard as could. I had borrowed the tool to do my joints. I now have one ordered. Snap-on dealer said its about $40.00.
Ive never heard of the Quad 4x4 people before. I deal with Drive Train Specialists (DTS) which is real big in racing and anything axle related. I trust their jedgements and I have been using exclusively Spicer Joints for over 20 years. SInce MR. SPICER designed and pattened the U-joint...must be good right...
Found this article.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index4.html
My truck had 56,000 miles when I replaced stock u-joints last month>>>>>
I have been told since that someone bent his steering parts on a 1500 doing that, but I watched and only had son apply enough pressure to get everything tight plus a little. Not just crank over as hard as could. I had borrowed the tool to do my joints. I now have one ordered. Snap-on dealer said its about $40.00.
Ive never heard of the Quad 4x4 people before. I deal with Drive Train Specialists (DTS) which is real big in racing and anything axle related. I trust their jedgements and I have been using exclusively Spicer Joints for over 20 years. SInce MR. SPICER designed and pattened the U-joint...must be good right...
Found this article.... http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ft/index4.html
My truck had 56,000 miles when I replaced stock u-joints last month>>>>>
#5
Registered User
i took a piece of c channel cut two notches out of it so it fit on the lug nuts welded a nut to the c channel cut a hole in the c channel over the nut and put a heavy duty bolt through the nut and c channel and pressed off the hubs by using the bolt to pull it off. cost free!
#6
I went with a hub/bearing set from CarQuest (made in Japan), I had the shop put the old ones in the bed so I could see how bad they were, one of them was metal on metal. So far the news ones are working good, only have about 500 miles on them.
#7
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