good deal thats what i am going to use. all you need to do then is run power right? With this plug it will run the 7 pin and 4 flat?

 

Yes, run a power wire.

-disconnect your stock 7pin harness plug at the bumper.
- trace what white wires do the lights mark/cut/splice them to the modulite
- plug this kit between the bumper and the stock plug.

ps. the 4 flat plug shown with this wiring kit is on the none protected side, as thats the side connected to the stock wiring.

Some use the trucks stock 4 flat connector to go to the input 4 flat of the modulite.

So only thing your splicing is 4 wires.

 

I will just use my adapter the plugs into my 7 pin and not worry about the four pin. Thanks for all your help!

 

I like the hoppy(hopkins wiring solutions) as their kit plugs into existing wire harness with no splicing required and really good weathertight connectors.
http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...2500_3500.html
Clark

 

I noticed this hoppy is for 4 flat connectors.

All my trailers are 7 rv type.

This one doesn't run a seperate hot wire and relay, so your still tapping your trucks lights, which isn't a good thing.

Wonder if they make one like the modulite? Would have been nice to have sealed connections.

 

Someone listed that there is a recall on the 2006 Ram for this. Does anyone have more details? Would love to get it fixed free then add the Modulite.

 

Follow up from a few years ago. I ran a 4 way relay. Works fine, but corrodes out. I've gone through several. So, I believe come this spring, I'll be upgrading to the Modulite HD. Good thing is, the power wire and right turn wire are already run.

 

Just installed a modulited ultra protector. Rated higher than the HD. Doesn't have adhesive backing like some I saw pics of but that isn't a big deal. Happy with mine so far.

 

Reviving an old thread because it helped me, and I wanted to add a little info for someone else that might be searching on this problem.

I have a 2003 2500 V10 with the 4500HD 5-speed, but most everything except the engine is the same as your diesel trucks. My vehicle is tow-ready, with both a 7-pin and a 4-pin connector. The Left brake/turn signal stopped working on both.

Traced the problem to the IPM (pretty sure it's the relay in there) and didn't want to attempt taking apart the IPM and re-soldering a relay. And I certainly didn't want to pay to replace it!

This Modulite solution discussed here seemed like a good one, but I elected to go with the Curt #55504 T-Connector, since it's plug and play at the taillight connections: CURT Manufacturing - CURT T-Connector #55504 (BTW, I found it on Amazon for less than $40.)

Had I just wanted a working 4-pin, I could have simply used the one provided with the Curt module and called it a day. But I wanted the light working at the 7-pin as well.

If you trace the wiring from the 14-pin connector right behind the 7-pin tow socket, you'll find where it splits and goes to the 4-pin. Peel back the tape and open up the loom, and you will find the splice where one wire splits into two for the trailer tow connectors.

In my case, since only the left signal wasn't working, I was looking for the Yellow/Pink wire. I cut it upstream of the splice, and connected the Yellow wire from the Curt module. This allows the Curt module to feed the Left turn/brake signal directly to both existing Tow connectors. (pic attached, before I set the heat shrink and taped it back up.)

So now I have the signal from the tail lights feeding through the Curt module to power the Left tow signal, but all the other lights are still coming from the IPM.

If the right signal stops working, I will simply go back under there and splice the Green Curt wire into the White/Pink wire, and I will have the same solution for the right brake/turn signal. In the meantime, I simply ziptied the Curt 4-pin up out of the way to preserve the wires.