Good Day to all. Well, I just spent $100.00 to have my '03 3500 checked out to make sure my problem lies within the TIPM and FCM. Guess what? Both are bad. I greatly appreciate the directions from this site for help. I have a $910 part back ordered from chrysler and they can't for sure tell me when to expect it. I only have 47,000 miles on her and we tow quite a bit. I am headed in the direction of the Modulite as mentioned above. I still can't understand chrysler, '06's have a recall to have it fixed but us with the older trucks are screwed. I have read so many '03 comments. Love my Ram but hate the red tape to get your stuff fixed.

 

I understand your frustration with the dealer and parts situation. If your truck lights are working ok, you have already spent more than the good fix would have cost. My truck was in the same situation and I distrust the competence of most of these so called dealer mechanics to fix it quickly, correctly, and as inexpensive as possible, that I try to do all the work myself.

The modulite unit and wiring harness can be installed in an hour of so by anyone with a decent understanding of following wires and splicing. It is a permanent inexpensive fix and it should have been designed this way in the first place! Good luck of whatever you decide.

 

Well, i installed the one from NAPA. It was made from HOPPY. All worked great. Took a little time out of my day but saved me $920.00. I went with the kit from NAPA cause it is rated up to 8A rather than the lower rated Modulite. I have no issues with the modulite, it was just easier to go get this one down the street. I thank all of you that have given the information in this forum to help me fix my baby.

 

Do you have a part number for the NAPA version? Thanks.

 

This is great info! I have the EXACT same problem on my truck, and I really didn't want to drop hundreds of dollars to fix a trailer tail light. I'm going to pick up a Modulite tomorrow and install it; I'll let you know how it works!

Vig

 

not sure what one he used. i could only find this one.
http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...086_0282483368

 

Wanted it fixed sooner than later, so I stopped at NAPA today and picked up their version of the Modulite (Napa: Power Converter, PN 755-1841). Have it installed on the truck and it works great. Going to hook up the trailer later and see how it acts then.

Thank you for the great idea!

Vig

 

I have ?. there is nothing wrong with my tipm yet. if i was to add one of these would it protect the tipm from damage.

 

Yes it would as all that the signal from your truck does is turn on/of the fuse protected modulite (or Napa) controller.. Spend $50 now or a $1,000 later.. Easy choice to make huh


Go to the right side of this link, there is a PDF file on the installation if you want to read more about it.

http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190.html

 

Holy Smokes, I had no idea the 06+ trailer lites were controlled by a TIPM junk. I figured there was fuses under the hood for the trailer. I ordered my Modulite, get that sucker installed ASAP!

Man thats all I need be stuck out in no man's land with a trailer short and have to take it to a dealer to reset it WTH.

$$ like you said, pay $50 now or $$$$ cha ching later.

Thanks Guys for the hint, Admin's this should be a sticky!!!

 

Tried mine out with the trailer on a test drive today... works like a champ! I wish I'd known about this one earlier...

 

What protects this from trailer shorts? Should a fuse be wired in on every wire? Or does the main power fuse protect it? Has anyone used the Aux power running back to power this unit?

 

I ran a 20 gauge wire back to my modulite. The device has a internal relay that self resets. Similiar to those resetable circuit breakers. I do have a fuse on my hot wire back near the battery, just in case i short out someplace else.

The aux wire is to small in my opinion and I wouldn't use it. The fuse for the aux is under the hood. but I didn't want to chop into that wiring to get a hot.
I would rather use that to charge batteries while pulling trailer.

Ie. if you used the aux, you would problably trip the fuse cause the combo of lights and charging a battery would be to high on that wire.

 

You are probably right. The only thing I pull now that uses the Aux is a Horse trailer and it uses it for the inside lights. But I may buy a camper soon. I just thought it would be a cleaner install splicing into that wire. I thought it was a decent gauge wire when I was tracing wirings trying to eliminate a back in the turn signal wire originally

 

I used this kit so I wouldn't hack up my original wiring. Just cut the light wires and spliced in the modulite.

http://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-V...eid=2006203625