Installing EGT Gauge
Installing EGT Gauge
OK so I have been searching and haven't been able to find anything that was really helpful. I am looking at a SRT-10 pillar and EGT gauge for my truck. Was hoping someone had or had read a "How To" on installing it. Need help on where to drill the manifold and all that. Not exactly fond to drilling on my truck.
Also if your near Houston and have done it and won't mind giving a first timer a hand, that would be cool too
Also if your near Houston and have done it and won't mind giving a first timer a hand, that would be cool too
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Surrey BC Canada (it's not that bad eh!)
Have a look:
http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-...ugeinstall.htm
I did like it says, started with a small bit moving up and using grease to catch the shavings. Used grease on the tap too.
I removed the pass tire and inner fender to get at it easier.
http://www.dieselmanor.com/diy/CMS3-...ugeinstall.htm
I did like it says, started with a small bit moving up and using grease to catch the shavings. Used grease on the tap too.
I removed the pass tire and inner fender to get at it easier.
Drill it, tap it, install the probe and fire it up. The exhaust will push the filings out.
If a piece of carbon can impact the vanes of the turbo at full load with high boost at max rpm without leaving any sign, I think some metal shavings at idle would pass without any problems. It's all about relative velocity. Did mine, and didn't look back.
The manifold is surprisingly thin. Remember that your tightening a pipe thread, so just snug it in there. It wouldn't take much to pull the threads out.
Read elsewhere about using shop air to blow the shavings out of the manifold. Seems like the shavings could be blown into a valve seat or cylinder. Turn the engine over and something might close on a shaving and ruin a guide or seat.
If a piece of carbon can impact the vanes of the turbo at full load with high boost at max rpm without leaving any sign, I think some metal shavings at idle would pass without any problems. It's all about relative velocity. Did mine, and didn't look back.
The manifold is surprisingly thin. Remember that your tightening a pipe thread, so just snug it in there. It wouldn't take much to pull the threads out.
Read elsewhere about using shop air to blow the shavings out of the manifold. Seems like the shavings could be blown into a valve seat or cylinder. Turn the engine over and something might close on a shaving and ruin a guide or seat.
I drilled mine then used a magnet retriever to pick any shavings out of the hole. You just need to find one small enough to go down in the hole. The hardest part of the installation was getting the wires through the fire wall.
You can always remove the manifold and drill with it off the truck. Then you have no worries.
I do as previous posters have done. Grease on the drill-bit and tap. Then swipe with a pen-magnet until I get no more shavings on it. Best case scenario is to have the hole drilled as far back as possible because the rearmost cylinders seem to make more heat than the fronts. I always put mine in front of the number 4 cylinder because there is a "Shelf" below it to catch most of the shavings which I retrieve with the magnet. I don't worry about a couple shavings getting past it though. I've done several of these with never a problem. If I were to pull the manifold then I would drill in in the lower section right above the turbo mounting flange.
Just make sure you have a good sharp tap. I spent hours with a dull one and was ready to take a hammer to it. Went and got a new tap and it cut through that manifold like a hot knife through butter. Well, almost like that..
It's always scary thinking about drilling or cutting on your truck but once you get started, and there's no turning back, you forget all that....
I do as previous posters have done. Grease on the drill-bit and tap. Then swipe with a pen-magnet until I get no more shavings on it. Best case scenario is to have the hole drilled as far back as possible because the rearmost cylinders seem to make more heat than the fronts. I always put mine in front of the number 4 cylinder because there is a "Shelf" below it to catch most of the shavings which I retrieve with the magnet. I don't worry about a couple shavings getting past it though. I've done several of these with never a problem. If I were to pull the manifold then I would drill in in the lower section right above the turbo mounting flange.
Just make sure you have a good sharp tap. I spent hours with a dull one and was ready to take a hammer to it. Went and got a new tap and it cut through that manifold like a hot knife through butter. Well, almost like that..

It's always scary thinking about drilling or cutting on your truck but once you get started, and there's no turning back, you forget all that....
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Fisherguy posted a GREAT install link, follow it's directions and you will be just fine. Easy 10 min job at best.
I have a SRT-10 a-pillar with a single gauge in it (exhaust pressure) you will like that location for a gauge and still having your grab handle.
CD
I have a SRT-10 a-pillar with a single gauge in it (exhaust pressure) you will like that location for a gauge and still having your grab handle.
CD
I put mine in the plug that comes in the Jake ..... drilled & tapped it for 1/8" NPT ..... of course I do have to mentally add 300 degrees to my pyro reading but it's a painless deal IF you have on a face-shield and a heavy shirt to catch the chips as you drill
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