Alright guys ....stupid question I know but ...

I have 30,000 miles on my rig and i have not changed the fuel filter...I know it is well overdue ...

What filter do you recommend? and is this hard to change? rather not go to the dealer...if i can take care of it myself...

Peace...

 

You can do it yourself pretty easily.

Drain the bowl, same way you would drain it to remove water if you were following the recommendations. Just let it drain all the way. It's the yellow lever on the bottom of the housing if you don't know what I'm talking about. I put some extra tubing on the drain tube so it doesn't run all over my differential.

Wipe everything down that is above and nearby the filter housing and wipe the filter housing down too. Don't want to knock any dirt or dust into the works when taking it apart or putting it back together.

Unscrew the cap with a big socket. It is pretty tight due to the o-ring. Steady pressure and it'll slowly unscrew. The filter is attached to the cap.

Pop the filter off of the cap and take the o-ring off the cap.

Pop a new filter on and a new o-ring (it is supplied with the filter). Put a little oil on the o-ring.

You are supposed to wipe the insides of the housing clean and wipe off the water in fuel sensor. Sometimes I do, sometimes I don't.

Screw the cap back on. Tighten to whatever the specified lb-ft of torque is (which I don't remember off the top of my head but I think it's around 25-30 lb-ft)

Close the drain lever if you haven't already.

Get in the truck and bump the starter to prime the system -- hit the starter for a split second but don't let the engine start then leave it in run. You'll hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds. You can do this twice to be sure.

All done.

 

A 10" Crescent wrench will work if you don't have a socket that size. I've had to prime it 4-5 times to get it to start before. Total time to do this project is maybe 15 minutes. That includes putting away the wrench and washing your paws. Happy wrenching.

 

Thanks guys...I appreciate your assistance!!!!!!

 

One thing I forgot to mention that's important, when putting the cap back on, DO NOT get all Superman on that thing, "nice and snug" is all you want, you go overboard and you crack the thing. Doesn't need to be really tight, just snug it down firmly.

 

You'll need a 1 1/8" socket.....an adjustable wrench will work if you're in a crunch, but I could see it an easy task of rounding off the plastic cap.
Greg

 

25 ft/lbs is imprinted on the cap. You do not have to bump the starter to prime. That procedure was for the Gen IIs. You just turn the key to the run position. You will hear the pump run then stop. I usually repeat this procedure two or three times just to be safe.