Carli Uppers w/ XRF Lowers?
Carli Uppers w/ XRF Lowers?
Anyone done Carli Upper ball joints with XRF lower ball joints? Would like to know how they are performing and thoughts on this setup.
With the Carli lowers still not out its about the only option I have other than selling the carli uppers I have and getting dynatracs complete setup.
Thanks
With the Carli lowers still not out its about the only option I have other than selling the carli uppers I have and getting dynatracs complete setup.
Thanks
I went about a year and a half with Carli uppers and Moog lowers. Reason why I went with Carli lowers (I'm a first run guy) was because my steering was all over the place and the Moogs appeared to have some up/down plunging to them plus I had a "tight" spot while turning, if you will.
Changed out to the Carli lowers and still had the problem (except the tight part in turning, which went away). My steering problem was the box itself (I now have Red Head). If I'd have figured out it was the box, I'd still have Moog lowers in my truck.
If it were me, I'd buy a matched set of Dynatracs and either sell those uppers or send them back to Carli for a refund (due to their second run lowers still not out and no known ETA).
Just my .02 cents.
Changed out to the Carli lowers and still had the problem (except the tight part in turning, which went away). My steering problem was the box itself (I now have Red Head). If I'd have figured out it was the box, I'd still have Moog lowers in my truck.
If it were me, I'd buy a matched set of Dynatracs and either sell those uppers or send them back to Carli for a refund (due to their second run lowers still not out and no known ETA).
Just my .02 cents.
Last edited by 1973Ford6BT; Sep 1, 2010 at 05:58 PM. Reason: added information
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
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I would not mix brands unless you already have Moog uppers. The reason is that if the upper and lowers are ball joints (Moog is not) the tapers must seat and hold the ball in exactly the right spot. Different brands might vary and bind.
Stick with one brand or run Moog uppers and some other lowers if you absolutely have too. The Moog upper is just a shaft in a bushing and has vertical play of about 1/2 inch.
Best is to get the Dynatracs and be done with it.
If you want to look at the Moog design and see why they fail, look at the thread "Moog Ball joint pictures" in the 2003-2007 drivetrain section. You'll see the upper shaft design I'm talking about. Do a search, it was posted about three weeks ago.
Stick with one brand or run Moog uppers and some other lowers if you absolutely have too. The Moog upper is just a shaft in a bushing and has vertical play of about 1/2 inch.
Best is to get the Dynatracs and be done with it.
If you want to look at the Moog design and see why they fail, look at the thread "Moog Ball joint pictures" in the 2003-2007 drivetrain section. You'll see the upper shaft design I'm talking about. Do a search, it was posted about three weeks ago.
I actually have the original OEM ball joints in the truck with 175,000 miles on them. However they are completely unsafe to drive on and the truck is parked till this gets solved. I've been waiting, like everyone else, for the Carli lowers. With the truck down I think I'll have to sell the Carli uppers I have sitting on the shelf and go with Dynatracs.
Would never put Moog BJ in my truck!
Would never put Moog BJ in my truck!
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Call Kevin at KLM Performance (203-210-5266) and he'll have them in the mail for you and they'll be at your front doorstep in 3 days. He even shipped FREE to Alaska (which most vendors refuse to) because he took the time to use USPS flat rate.
He has Dynatracs in stock right now. I just got mine from my postal carrier less than 30 minutes ago.
Now I just have to find the time to get them instaled.
He has Dynatracs in stock right now. I just got mine from my postal carrier less than 30 minutes ago.
Now I just have to find the time to get them instaled.
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