Good Day Folks.
My AC Compressor went belly up a few months back so I'm bypassing it until I get a chance to rebuild the system.

Have any of you out there done this on your own?

I see I can get all the parts on line.
From what I recall from many moons ago, I'd need to clean all the parts with brake cleaner to include flushing the old hoses.
Bolt it all in and have it charged????

I believe I will have to pull the dash (again) and will replace the heater core while in there.

I simplified it in writing. Just planning for now, but would like any advice that can be offered.

Thanks.

 

Just curious, why are you replacing the heater core? Make sure you replace the expansion valve and the receiver dryer, while you're in there! Remember to add the appropriate amount of oil. In your case you will need the total oil capacity minus the oil in the compressor after you flush the lines and blow them out with compressed air. Don't do the flushing or blowing with the expansion valve or receiver dryer installed.

 

No expansion valve in our trucks. Just replace the orifce line and the reciever/dryer. No need to flush the lines unless your compressor shelled out.

 

I defer to the orifce line

 

I'm changing out the heater core as I'll have the dash out as it is.

Good copy on blowing out the lines w/o the oriface tube in.
My compressor sounded like it was coming about it was growling/grinding so bad.

They sell the comp with the oriface and such as a package on the online bid site.

Thanks for the advice.

 

Can't replace just the orifice, have to replace the whole line. Make sure you get the updated line with the new orifice size.

 

Will do Spooler. Thanks.

 

Be careful what "cleaner" you use to flush out the lines. Some brake cleaners will disolve O-rings, react with the oil, or just take the paint off whatever it touches! Others leave a film after they dry

 

Any suggestions on a different cleaner?
I basically want to flush out any left over debris in the new condensor and such.

 

Need to use A/C flush cleaner. Should be able to get it from a parts store.

 

Stick with specialty chemicals & supplies. There are online specialists (no surprise, they are in TX, AZ and FL) where one can ask questions as well as make purchases.

Also look up threads/posts on HEATERTREATER doors.

 

Is it possable its just the clutch bearing going out on your compresser, maybe just a 1 hour fix,:Lary they are total junk and should all be sent back to china with the rest of there stuff.

 

You know, it may be that it is the clutch.
I had a leak in the system last spring, and near as we could detect, it was in the evap under the dash.

We recharged it, which held until this recent event.

How would one tell if it's just a clutch?

I'd hate to replace it to find out that it was the comp...but then again, if I R&R the clutch and the evap under the dash, which was leaking last spring, and held a charge until this latest event, I may come out ahead.

I'll ponder on this one.

Thanks for all the suggestions folks.

 

As you ponder:

Mobile HVAC systems don't last forever. 7-8 years is about right to consider full replacement assuming one wants the most life from the truck, like-new performance, and to not allow the system to degrade from band-aid fixes and suffering numerous small leaks.

Do the blower fan, resistor and ignition switch first, IMO.

Increased electrical loads, refrigerant leaks, leaks in forced or return air, contaminated charges, etc, they all add up.

I want mine to hold 500-microns overnight to be satisfied (for example).

Factory parts, new. Re-man is for one you are selling tomorrow. And check the Beemo/Spooler threads for detailed info/updates.

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