Not alot of folks have had this issue. To go through the resistor all you have to do is place the fan switch on the highest setting. The resistor dosen't drop any then. Nissan would do something similar and burn out the resistor. If you replaced it and it did it again it was a resistor and blower motor. Hard to say what the deal was. Bad connection will create heat and toast a connection over time. Hard to say what caused it.

 

spooler you might be right again. but jeffs reasoning sounds more logical.
the reason i say you might be right is because the very first thing i did was checked the resistor block, it had no continuity and 1 burnt turminal. i replaced it figuring i was good to go, but that is when it turned into a head scratcher.jeff and the rest of you helped me trace it to the burnt terminal.

could it be the resistor block went bad; pulled to much current causing the connector to melt, then the resitor block it's self lost continuity.

all i know is it's working good now. i only replaced the resistor block and fixed the burnt terminal. jeff you saved me from buying a new motor (the autoparts store wanted $300). you get to southwestern id. i'll pick up your tab.

rich

 

Spooler is absolutely correct in that when the fan **** is switched to high, full 12v should be applied directly to the motor w/o the resister block being in the loop.

Anyway, glad you got it going.

 

jeff i got it
the keyed cylinder works a 'black box' on the left side of the column and the harness plugs into this black box.
well the fat red wire (in the harness) must bring hot to the 'black box' and with the key turned "on" power goes thru to the blue fat wire. well b4 i looked i had 12 v at the red and nothing going through the box to the blue. the blue wire was discolored near the last inch as it exited the harness on the way to the blower switch. well i put a jumper in trhe red 12v wire at the harness plug and put the jumper into the blue and i only had high speed . YES in caps....! i snapped the resistor back in w/o buying a new one and all speeds work. so i must now purchase a new black box wh i beleive is the ignition switch. then put it all together.. ps i couldnt get the column covers apart cause i did not see the screw nearest the tilt lever....halelujiah! thanks to you . take care
im posting theis to the tdr web forum

 

Excellent. I'm happy you got yours figured out, too.

 

I have on 06 MegaCab, 56,000 miles. The blower just started sounding funny on High and Med. High. Vibrating too. Seems to work okay, tho'.

Do you think it's just the motor going bad, or perhaps some plenum door type of thing???

Thanks for the help.

 

It sounds like the Recir door may be broke. Do a search, pleanty of info.

 

Yeah, just pull out the glove box, and you can see the recirc door when its on fresh air.

 

Turned out it was the recirc door as stated. The hinge had snapped and the stub had fallen inside the "squirrel cage". That caused the vibration and noise.
Thanks everyone.