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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 10:35 AM
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ac blower

hi i am new to this site
i own a 04 2500 diesel laramie
the ac and heater blower motor just stopped working
it sputtered at first while driving and then nothing
after a day or two it still is not working
ac compressor kicks on and everything just no fan
checked 10 amp fuse and its good
any idea as how to proceed?
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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Welcome to the site.

So can you hear the blower motor run but no air output?

Directly above the fan motor is the recirculation door, which controls whether the HVAC intakes from the cowl vent ahead of the windshield, or from the recirculation intake behind the glove box.

If that blend door broke, it can fall into the fan.


You could either remove the glove box and see if the recirculation door is in place, or pull the three screws on the fan motor (by the passenger's feet area), and drop the motor out.

Anyway, good luck with it.

Here's a photo showing the blend door (light brownish) in the fresh air position (so it's blocking the recirc intake).

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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 11:40 AM
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wow, you really went the extra mile to help me! thank you.
the blower is not running so with your info i will pull the three screws on the motor as you describe. you know on second thought last week i did have an issue with the ppassenger side getting warm for no reason even with the tstat slid to cold and the drivers side cold so again i bet this email and diagnosis you sent me is spot on. thank you again and i will reply sometime in a day or two with my results. JOHN
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Old Jul 29, 2008 | 03:05 PM
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I would think the passenger side getting warm could indicate low refrigerant charge, or maybe a blend door issue...

Anyhow, first thing to do would be to get the fan running. Once you've dropped it down, if you don't find anything stuck in the blower, and the shaft turns, I suppose the next thing to do would be to check for voltage at the connector and/or take an ohm meter reading across the motor terminals.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 01:07 AM
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That is a great photo. My truck will not go to recirculate, so I pulled the fan motor and could feel a door inside there that moved and seemed intact (which I thought was the recirculation door). I then pulled the glove box, but had no clue what I was looking for. That must be the position mine is stuck in, as the vent is open all the time, even with everything else off. Perhaps I can close it by hand until I can get the $580 the dealer wants to fix it, thanks.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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I was just going to post a question on the very subject,I recently purchased a used 2003 Dodge 2500 ,took the family on vacation and while switching the vent controler to defrost position the vent seemed to loose air velocity,turning it back to blow out the dash vents was the same way,fan speeds didn't matter but you could hear the fan change speeds but just sounds like some kind of restriction.Later after shutting the truck off it seemed to work for a while.I don't think it is in the fan switch but seems like it might be a stuck damper or?? Did some looking on the net and appears if it is a damper issue that the whole dash,etc has to come out? I did find one post that explained drilling a hole and trying to lube the effected damper??
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 11:02 AM
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My understanding is that the recirc door can be replaced without having to remove the whole HVAC system, but if the problem is one of the other doors (Blend door, defrost door etc) the dash has to come out, AC system evacuated, and coolant drained to take the HVAC out...

Here's a good thread on that subject.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=210483
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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Is the fan blowing at all? If not you have a burnt wire, bad connection, or bad ignition switch at the steering colmn. The power for the blower motor comes from the ignition switch. Check the wires and connection after taking the steering colmn cover off. If it is not blowing at all, this is the problem 95% of the time.
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Old Jul 30, 2008 | 09:21 PM
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ok heres an update,i dropped the fan motor , very easy
also a peice of cake to take the glove box door off
checked voltage at the terminal that connects to the fan motor
it read in mv(milli-volts) which basically means that there is no power there (dc volts)
next step i took blower motor, hooked it up direct to the battery, works fine so the blower is good
i think spooler may be on to something cause i have had a recurring problem with the ignition switch whereas i pull out my key and the blower motor has continued to run
if i jiggle the key i can get it to loose the contact and the blower shuts off
i make a habit of making sure blower motor is off when i get out of my truck so as not to kill batterys due to fan running w key off
i should have went to dealer but dealers give a bad taste in my mouth.
i will open up column and see if i can check the contact at the ignityion switch as you suggest
spooler and jeff thanks so much so far for going the extra mile and helping me figure this out
your help is invaluable
and the link for dash dissassembly is something im sure ill need to finish this up.....john in nj
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Old Jul 31, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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One guy on here figured out the problem and I just remember it and post about it when the time comes. This is probably about the 20th time of helping a feller out that I can count. I am out of toes and fingers so I can't go any higher than that......
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Old Aug 1, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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ok itook the dash apart, wasnt that hard but alot of screws, i pulled the plug from the back of the fan switch (off, lower, low, med, high) and checked for power and had none. theres a blue w a yellow stripe and a solid blue at the blower terminals. at the fan switch there is a blue w a yellow stripe
i checked power there to ground and no matter how or where i move the ignition key i still get nothing going there. or any of the terminals to ground. which further leads me to think its the ignition switch. i cant get the covers around the steering column off. two torx screw i beleive hold on the bottom cover but i dont have one thats skinny enough to fit in the molded plastic hole in the cover. i also dont see any blue wires coming off the ignition switch at this stage. im getting frustrated . any hints appreciated
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 07:22 AM
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With the ingnition switch and fan switch on, try to wiggle the harness right at the base of the left side of the steering column. Mine seems to work its way loose to a bad connection sometimes. If that doesn't make the fan kick on, I would bet you have a bad igniton switch.
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 02:16 PM
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count me in
i have a 03 with the same problem
the only differance is i have 12.7 volts to the fan motor with the switch in any position, even off.
fan still don't work (it works when i jump it at the battery)
cleaned the connecters, replaced the resistor block (mechanic friends advice) and checked connection at the column. still no fan
mine also was staying on with the ignition switch off until it quit for good.
i dont understand how i can have 12 volts and the motor still don't work, it must not be grounding right or there is no amps.
rich
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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if you got 12 volts to the motor i couldnt see how its not working. in your case what i would do is remove the plug from the fan and see which is the power supply terminal. at that point set your meter for continuity and check the other terminal at the plug to ground and see if you got continuity. you may be on to something im not clear on yet. where was the resistor block you replased? does anyone have a schematic showing the ignition switch and hvac control they could post as this would clear up my problem at least and maybe a few other on the list?
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Old Aug 2, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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spdnby
i wish i had a schematic cause i'm confussed
the resistor block is the plug next to the blower motor, pull the 2 screws out and it comes right out. it's a ceramic block with 4 wires going to it. mechanic friend checked for continuity between the teminals and there was none. he said it was bad so i replaced it and it didn't fix my problem.($70 part)
done like you said the green wire is hot and the black with pink tracer is ground. i had 12 volts using a alternative ground and i had continuity between the ground and alternative ground.(bolt in the seat bracket)
that should indicate a bad motor, but it works fine when hooked up to the battery terminals.
i thought it had to be a short or a sticky relay when i jumped in the truck last week and the fan was running with no keys in the ignition.
i'm confussed, the only thing i know is don't put it on recirculate and don't drive under 40 mph if you want any ac at all.
rich
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