3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (6.7L Only) Talk about Dodge/Cummins aftermarket products for third generation trucks here. Can include high-performance mods, or general accessories. THIS IS FOR THE 6.7L ONLY!

Unplugging the EGR

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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 03:16 PM
  #316  
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From: Victor, MT
It's been a symptom discussed by others. Seems to generally affect those with 07.5 year models that are not up to date on the Chrysler flashes.
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Old Jan 9, 2009 | 09:30 PM
  #317  
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Originally Posted by jsledder
Will the EGR unplug mod cause the engine to idle eratically at times or "buck" when coming to a stop, reversing, idling, etc.. at times?

Mine idles a little rough, surging actually, while it is cold at idle. It runs great when the temp gets above 120 or so.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 03:15 PM
  #318  
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From: A state of Missery (Missouri)
Originally Posted by mnmlod
Mine idles a little rough, surging actually, while it is cold at idle. It runs great when the temp gets above 120 or so.
My truck will surge ocassionally. I don't think there is anything wrong, it's just returning to idle and will fluxuate some times depending on what I was doing with the throtle. I would guess that the automatics have the surgeing partially because the motor is alway being pulled down by the transmission so when you are useing light throttle and then realease the throtle the motor surges back to the normal idle rpm because the transmission pulled it down below that rpm.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 04:32 PM
  #319  
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From: North West Jorsey
Here's a review I did on the Dark Side

RECAP

1. Pulling the plug on the EGR will cause better mileage and fewer regens. General concesnsis is 2 MPG improvement.
2. It will not harm the components down stream. It will actually help them
3. It will generate a check engine light because the computer sees pieces of hardware missing. You will have to deal with it until a code free EGR solution is found.
4. Just unplugging the EGR will not allow soot to build up. Experiments after 6000 miles showed the exhaust pressure is enough to allow the exhaust pressure to bleed off the soot and condensation.
5. This is reversible and will leave a code stored in the ECM. The dealer may or may not see it. Depends on how thourgh he is. This means you can unplug the EGR and go to the dealer with it plugged back in.
6. Some earlier trucks act strange in the beginning. If this continues, you'll need to remove the flapper valve in the intake, or get a later update on the ECM.
7. Unplugging the EGR with a DPF delete has some short term effects on your truck. The two systems are tied together but work independantly. If the problems persist, then you have other problems which we will try to help you with.
8. DO NOT keep plugging in and unplugging the EGR. It confuses the ECM
9. Codes usually generated- P0405 and a low pressure code.
[10. Codes can be cleared with an Edge or a PMT. Some have had good luck with running with the codes cleared and some have not. It's possible the flash level is the problem. Clear the codes before you start and see how it
11. Best Minimum Flash levels.
2008 Standard 62350230AP
2008 Auto 62350235AQ
2007 C&C Stan 52300230AV
2007 C&C Auto 52300234AV
2007 Standard 55350230AY
2007 Auto 55350235AY

DO NOT DELETE THE CODES. Your fuel economy can be effected and it could throw your truck into a limp mode when changing climates. Temperature plays a major part in this.

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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 05:00 PM
  #320  
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From: A state of Missery (Missouri)
I have not seen any verifiable improvement in MPG. I've driven with the code and without the code now I'll keep it in perspective. I don't believe my truck has had any flashes at all and it only has about 2300mi on it so my findings may not be true of other trucks. I should be able to get it flashed this week if they will do it.
Thanks for your info and time invested.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 05:15 PM
  #321  
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From: North West Jorsey
Originally Posted by Tree DR
I have not seen any verifiable improvement in MPG. I've driven with the code and without the code now I'll keep it in perspective. I don't believe my truck has had any flashes at all and it only has about 2300mi on it so my findings may not be true of other trucks. I should be able to get it flashed this week if they will do it.
Thanks for your info and time invested.
Not sure where you are, but the blended fuel for winter does absolutely nothing for the EGR delete
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 06:29 PM
  #322  
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From: Redding, Ca
What is a review "on the dark side"?
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 06:32 PM
  #323  
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From: Victor, MT
He is referring to www.cumminsforum.com Not sure why either of these forums feel they need to compete with each other or why referencing on on the other is taboo as they are both excellent sources for cummins information. DTR is more reliability/towing related and CF is more high performance/appearance/BOMBing related (for the 6.7L community, that is).
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #324  
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From: North West Jorsey
Originally Posted by BroncoHound
He is referring to www.cumminsforum.com Not sure why either of these forums feel they need to compete with each other or why referencing on on the other is taboo as they are both excellent sources for cummins information. DTR is more reliability/towing related and CF is more high performance/appearance/BOMBing related (for the 6.7L community, that is).
Yeah I'm just being cautious.

Bronco knows I am pretty bold. (Don't go there or I'll hound you )

But that is where allot of the delete stuff is talked about more openly too. Bronco was one of the pioneers of this EGR concept with me. He watched me make a fool of myself and improved on it
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 07:32 PM
  #325  
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[QUOTE=Polaraco;2346050]Here's a review I did on the Dark Side

RECAP

1. Pulling the plug on the EGR will cause better mileage and fewer regens. General concesnsis is 2 MPG improvement.
2. It will not harm the components down stream. It will actually help them
3. It will generate a check engine light because the computer sees pieces of hardware missing. You will have to deal with it until a code free EGR solution is found.
4. Just unplugging the EGR will not allow soot to build up. Experiments after 6000 miles showed the exhaust pressure is enough to allow the exhaust pressure to bleed off the soot and condensation.
5. This is reversible and will leave a code stored in the ECM. The dealer may or may not see it. Depends on how thourgh he is. This means you can unplug the EGR and go to the dealer with it plugged back in.
6. Some earlier trucks act strange in the beginning. If this continues, you'll need to remove the flapper valve in the intake, or get a later update on the ECM.
7. Unplugging the EGR with a DPF delete has some short term effects on your truck. The two systems are tied together but work independantly. If the problems persist, then you have other problems which we will try to help you with.
8. DO NOT keep plugging in and unplugging the EGR. It confuses the ECM
9. Codes usually generated- P0405 and a low pressure code.
[10. Codes can be cleared with an Edge or a PMT. Some have had good luck with running with the codes cleared and some have not. It's possible the flash level is the problem. Clear the codes before you start and see how it
11. Best Minimum Flash levels.
2008 Standard 62350230AP
2008 Auto 62350235AQ
2007 C&C Stan 52300230AV
2007 C&C Auto 52300234AV
2007 Standard 55350230AY
2007 Auto 55350235AY

DO NOT DELETE THE CODES. Your fuel economy can be effected and it could throw your truck into a limp mode when changing climates. Temperature plays a major part in this.

[/
sorry i'm new is there a difference between clearing codes and deleting codes
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 08:44 PM
  #326  
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From: North West Jorsey
sorry i'm new is there a difference between clearing codes and deleting codes
They are both the same. It's just terminology
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:24 PM
  #327  
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From: A state of Missery (Missouri)
I'm in southern MO. I haven't seen any labels stateing it's winterized diesel. I do have my butter fly valve pulled out.
I hope to get my dpf delete this week and fix that problem.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 09:37 PM
  #328  
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From: West Central IL
Polaraco, on #4 of your recap are you saying you won't have a build up of black tar looking stuff if you leave EGR unplugged for a long period of time? Earlier somebody was claiming this. Thanks for your help! Also anybody know of an EGR fooler yet?
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #329  
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From: North West Jorsey
Originally Posted by IL Ram
Polaraco, on #4 of your recap are you saying you won't have a build up of black tar looking stuff if you leave EGR unplugged for a long period of time? Earlier somebody was claiming this. Thanks for your help! Also anybody know of an EGR fooler yet?

Yes I recently heard that myself. There always seems to be the exception.

Most have run thousands of miles with no build up.

But here's a trick. . .

Get a Dorman # 555-020 or equal Steel, deep cup Freeze plug.

Drill a hole in the middle and mount a bolt with a washer behind it. Use a 5/16 X 1 1/2 bolt. Run a nut up on the bolt and tighten it against the 1/2 shoulder on the bolt. (The non-threaded part) Put it in the washer with the bolt head sticking out of the cup. Put a washer on the inside and double nut it so it won't fall out. Make sure it's tight on the plug. If you have welding capabilities, tack it. This is to make sure you can get it out if you have to later.

Take your transfer tube off and tap it into the EGR cooler end (That's the contraption on the exhaust manifold.) of the tube so the cup, not the bolt head, is flush with the end. Re-install the tube and keep the EGR valve unplugged.

Now you have a stock looking setup and the EGR is completely plugged off. The is the next best thing to doing a complete delete. The whole operation should take about 30 minutes.

Now if you have to go to the dealer, you are OK for short distances with the EGR plugged in. But this way, with it plugged in, you WILL go into a limp mode eventually. Stay off the highway if you have to plug it in.
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:13 PM
  #330  
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From: SD
Took at trip today and tested mileage with it plugged in and unplugged. Flat land, consistent wind, cruise set on 69. First 90 miles was 15.3 plugged in, next 90 was 18.5 unplugged. Saw the difference on the fuel gauge too, got 300 miles at the 1/2 way mark. Now when we hit the interstate I just left it unplugged and will do so, until it goes back to the dealer for new emissions, and cruise set on 74 mileage went down to 16.3 the rest of the way with a good side wind. Approximately 250 miles of interstate. I can live with 16 or better, really like seeing 18-19 on the OHD!!!.
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